[jvarble]

New to the site so bear with me here.

So this all started in the summer, I was driving and my car started to over heat. I stopped and got more coolant in it and it seemed to be the end of the problem, except aft there I had a check engine light on. checked the light and it was for low coolant, so no big deal since that had been resolved... except when I got home I was out of coolant again and i noticed the fan was at full speed and wouldn't slow down. after further inspection I found that the housing that connects the radiator hose to the motor had cracked. since i live in an apartment I took it into a mechanic near my house and had him fix it. while I was at the mechanic he started saying how it was worse than he thought because the hoses on the back of the housing were spongie? and that im going to need a new radiator because its leaking coolant into the transmission??? well any way i told him not to worry about that just to fix what i asked him to. so of course when i leave i notice more problems like now the car is shuttering... I take it back and he tells me he didnt do anything its a common problem with these cars... so i look it up and it does seem to be common that the valve covers go bad, so i had to put it off for a month or so to get the extra money. in that time i realized that the housing he put on was leaking too but this time from the top. when i took a look at it i found that the hose that goes into the top of the housing was broken so finally i replace the hose and the valve cover. but STILLL I HAVE CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS except now I have 14+ and every time I check it just keeps going up. after something I read online I replaced the ambiant air temp sensor and still no luck with the fan, and the car no longer shutters like it did before I replaced the valve cover but it is VERRY slow to take off and accelerate in general.

any way sorry for the long read but here are the logged (not pending) codes its pulling now if you have any advise i'd greatly appreciate it

Also the car isnt overheating

2012 chevy cruze ECO 1.4L turbo with ~140k miles

P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)



P0132 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 1)


P0134 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)

P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)



P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance


P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low

P112C Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 3 Circuit Low Voltage,Sensors

 

[UpstateNYBill]

So are you saying all the problems that you had are all fixed now, except now your Cruze is "slow to take off and accelerate"? Edit: and you have codes.

When you replaced the valve cover, the ignition coil assembly had to come out. When you put the ignition coil assembly back in, did you check the springs in the spark plug boots to make sure they were straight? If they aren't straight, or if any of the spark plug boots got damaged, this could cause driveability issues.

Edit: I see you added codes, not sure what to make of those at the moment.

 

[jvarble]

Yeah sorry I jumped around a bit there. so my current problems are:

- fan on all the time
- slow to accelerate (like 0-60 in maybe a minute unless im flooring it, then when im at about 70 i have to really try to even go 71)

I'll be honest I didnt specifically check the springs i mean they seem okay and it isnt missing/stuttering or anything

also a side not (i didnt include this at first because its a known glitch) but often my car will say reduced engine power/check stabletrac and the radio flickers this started happening more and more recently.

 

[jvarble]

Let me know if you have any ideas. I may replace the O2 sensor this weekend

 

[jvarble]

update, checked the Intake air temp reading this morning and the temp I was getting didnt seem crazy was about the temp of the air outside at start up then got a little warmer as I drove. so im thinking that sensor is just getting tripped with the o2 sensor

 

[jblackburn]

O2 sensor/turbo codes - check turbo air hoses for a blown-off clamp. Check EVERY connection with a good tug. I really suspect one is loose.

If they all appear to be good and snug, replace the post-turbo O2 sensor.

Also, the transmission cooler is a completely separate unit from the radiator, so that is bunk. I wouldn't trust that mechanic.

 

[jvarble]

Yeah, thats what I was thinking especially since I know he broke a hose that wasnt broken in the first place. I think its one of those "we give you a cheap price over the phone" places. but any way I ordered an OEM O2 sensor last night, I mean the car does have 13x,xxx miles on it so a bad O2 sensor doesnt sound out of the question.

 

[jvarble]

Okay so I replaced the o2 sensor and it ran great with no codes... for about 30 minutes!!! ugh no Idea where to start but the night i changed the o2 sensor there were 3 codes, 1: p2227 barometric pressure 2: p0030 Ho2 sensor 3: Intake air tempature sensor...

so codes are fine what happened next isnt, I tried driving it and I could barely go 30mph!!!! so im two days without a car and im lost I just dont know what to do I took it in to see when they can do the diagnostics on it (for $100 of course) and they said they wouldnt be able to for two weeks I looked at trading it in and the dealership offered me $3500 for it... I OWE $12,000 on it. I really feel like a fool for buying this car, I really just wish it was fixed, I feel hopeless.

 

[ChevyGuy]

p2227 barometric pressure 2: p0030 Ho2 sensor 3: Intake air tempature sensor...

IIRC, the baro and temp are a combo sensor in the air intake. So these might be pointing back to the same sensor and/or same wiring.

 

[jblackburn]

Hang on, this could just be a bad sensor or loose turbo air pipe. Check all the intercooler and turbo air pipes at clamps for a secure connection. Check the plug on the sensor on the tube that goes directly into the throttle body and make sure that that sensor isn't loose fitting in the pipe.

 

[jvarble]

okay new update I read somewhere that someone else had a similar issue and cleared it up with some sea foam, it drove like brand new like to the point i was speeding on accident again.... and then it went into limp mode again when I turned it off and back on. at that point it was hard to go 35mph again

 

[Bryanroy2000]

New to the site so bear with me here.

So this all started in the summer, I was driving and my car started to over heat. I stopped and got more coolant in it and it seemed to be the end of the problem, except aft there I had a check engine light on. checked the light and it was for low coolant, so no big deal since that had been resolved... except when I got home I was out of coolant again and i noticed the fan was at full speed and wouldn't slow down. after further inspection I found that the housing that connects the radiator hose to the motor had cracked. since i live in an apartment I took it into a mechanic near my house and had him fix it. while I was at the mechanic he started saying how it was worse than he thought because the hoses on the back of the housing were spongie? and that im going to need a new radiator because its leaking coolant into the transmission??? well any way i told him not to worry about that just to fix what i asked him to. so of course when i leave i notice more problems like now the car is shuttering... I take it back and he tells me he didnt do anything its a common problem with these cars... so i look it up and it does seem to be common that the valve covers go bad, so i had to put it off for a month or so to get the extra money. in that time i realized that the housing he put on was leaking too but this time from the top. when i took a look at it i found that the hose that goes into the top of the housing was broken so finally i replace the hose and the valve cover. but STILLL I HAVE CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS except now I have 14+ and every time I check it just keeps going up. after something I read online I replaced the ambiant air temp sensor and still no luck with the fan, and the car no longer shutters like it did before I replaced the valve cover but it is VERRY slow to take off and accelerate in general.

any way sorry for the long read but here are the logged (not pending) codes its pulling now if you have any advise i'd greatly appreciate it

Also the car isnt overheating

2012 chevy cruze ECO 1.4L turbo with ~140k miles

P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)



P0132 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 1)


P0134 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)

P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)



P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance


P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low

P112C Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 3 Circuit Low Voltage,Sensors

Ever figure this issue out?

 

[Meagansnow03]

Ever figure this issue out?

Having same issue. I'd like to know the solution as well!

 

[Sassman]

okay new update I read somewhere that someone else had a similar issue and cleared it up with some sea foam, it drove like brand new like to the point i was speeding on accident again.... and then it went into limp mode again when I turned it off and back on. at that point it was hard to go 35mph again

I'm in the exact same boat! Have you made any progress? This is so frustrating!

 

[JuddHouston]

I have the exact same issue and have not been able to resolve it. These Cruzes are something else. JUNK!

 

[BadgerState]

Same! I too have these EXACT symptoms and the same codes. I'd love to know if this was resolved, because I'm STUMPED!

 

[Blasirl]

Same! I too have these EXACT symptoms and the same codes. I'd love to know if this was resolved, because I'm STUMPED!

I cannot read that big block of text as my eyes go squirrly, but if you are saying the fan is always on, then it is either the temp sensors or air in the system as the vehicle thinks you have no or low coolant.