[jfann77]

MY 2012 lt has about 83,000 miles. The clutch doesn't slip yet but I have noticed the pedal being pretty high when it grabs. I bought the car with about 59,000 miles a year ago, So not sure what kind of driving was done before that so figured it cant hurt to replace that clutch to know its going to last for a while. Problem is I understand that they had 2 designs that year 216 mm and 228 mm. Does anyone know if there is a way to know which one it has before taking it apart? I've been told the only way is to take it out and measure it then order parts. that sounds a little crazy to me... any help at all is greatly appreciated

 

[obermd]

Your local dealership may be able to assist you with this. They'll need the VIN to look up the clutch specs. I was unaware there were two clutches - makes me wonder if the 228 mm clutch was a replacement to fix the premature clutch wear on the 2011s.

 

[chevrasaki]

Your local dealership may be able to assist you with this. They'll need the VIN to look up the clutch specs. I was unaware there were two clutches - makes me wonder if the 228 mm clutch was a replacement to fix the premature clutch wear on the 2011s.

This is also the first I've heard of two clutches. It would make sense though.

 

[jfann77]

I Learned of the two sizes from the parts guy at a local dealer. He said the vin doesn't tell what design it has. He said the only way he knows of is to take it apart. I was hoping someone may know of another way. Like i said my clutch doesn't slip yet. but i want to go ahead and change it while i have the extra money instead of waiting for it to go out. i just dont want my car down for a few days to do it.

 

[chevrasaki]

I Learned of the two sizes from the parts guy at a local dealer. He said the vin doesn't tell what design it has. He said the only way he knows of is to take it apart. I was hoping someone may know of another way. Like i said my clutch doesn't slip yet. but i want to go ahead and change it while i have the extra money instead of waiting for it to go out. i just dont want my car down for a few days to do it.

I can understand your concern. However if it were me, I wouldn't change it at the first sign of slipping or high pedal travel. There's still some life left in it. Clutches can go for as long as 150K-200K and still be fine. Really depends on the type of driving. If you're constantly stopping and starting, then it wont last as long. but if you just put it in 5th or 6th and cruise a lot of highway, it'll last a long time.

I agree, that is pretty ridiculous that there isn't any other way to tell what size clutch without taking it out. GM probably thought this was a genius idea. "Yeah, then they'll have to come to us for service and we will make money!" -Some guy in a GM meeting

 

[brian v]

Look at the build date on the door panel .... assuming GM changed the clutch to a bigger MM than with certainty on a specific timeline of production ..you should be able to figure out what clutch was installed ...

Buy the bigger 1 and have peace of mind ...

Rob may have more specific information about any such changes for the clutch !

 

[obermd]

I Learned of the two sizes from the parts guy at a local dealer. He said the vin doesn't tell what design it has. He said the only way he knows of is to take it apart. I was hoping someone may know of another way. Like i said my clutch doesn't slip yet. but i want to go ahead and change it while i have the extra money instead of waiting for it to go out. i just dont want my car down for a few days to do it.

I'd stick that money in a savings account and ear mark it for clutch replacement. Why give someone else your money before you have to?

 

[chevrasaki]

I agree, I really don't think you'll have to do the clutch before 120K at the earliest, unless you're wearing it out way more than average. I'd do like obermd said and put that money you have for the clutch away into a savings for now then use it when you actually need to replace it. Just make sure you don't spend it before then haha.

 

[jfann77]

My reasons for wanting to change it now also include that it grabs at about the last two inches of pedal travel and I'm about to be moving 1000 miles away and won't have a garage where im moving.

 

[chevrasaki]

My reasons for wanting to change it now also include that it grabs at about the last two inches of pedal travel and I'm about to be moving 1000 miles away and won't have a garage where im moving.

I suppose if you know you'll probably have to change it sometime anyway, there's no harm in changing it early. Still not sure how to tell which one you'll need. As mentioned above, the date it was produced might help you figure out which one went in, but not sure if that's definitive either.

 

[Robby]

Any fully seated hydraulic clutch engages at the last third of travel that I've ever operated.

Has taken me years to get used to that 'weirdness'.....both my Miata's, my Camaro, my T'Bird, the diesel F-350 (sons service truck that I often drive).....all hydraulic, all act the same. (and the truck has the OE at 197k).

I too recommend holding off......yes, a new clutch will have almost full travel engagement but, once the disc smooths out you'll be right back to the top third.

Rob

 

[chevrasaki]

Any fully seated hydraulic clutch engages at the last third of travel that I've ever operated.

Has taken me years to get used to that 'weirdness'.....both my Miata's, my Camaro, my T'Bird, the diesel F-350 (sons service truck that I often drive).....all hydraulic, all act the same. (and the truck has the OE at 197k).

I too recommend holding off......yes, a new clutch will have almost full travel engagement but, once the disc smooths out you'll be right back to the top third.

Rob

I forgot to mention that my Cobalt acted this way. The first 10K miles it engaged a few inches from the floor. But after it wore in a bit, it felt the same from 10K to until I traded it (93K) Even my Cruze with only 20K miles engages in the middle to the last half now that it's worn in.

He did mention he was going to be in a place with no garage soon so his concern was getting it done now before he wouldn't be able to anymore.

 

[jblackburn]

Clutch was changed after early September 2011 build dates.

Look up the size for a 2013 - it will be the same as the later 2012.

 

[jfann77]

Awesome thanks. Good to have a date to go by.

 

[jfann77]

Build date was 7/12 so should be the bigger size. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[lonewolf04]

I know this is an old thread, but anticipating clutch replacement this summer on my '12 Cruze with 130k on it. Would it be safe to say if you buy all the components for the 228mm that you would just be able "upgrade" to the 228mm or not because of some other factors with one design to the other (i.e. something doesn't fit / line up)?

 

[arcticcatmatt]

I know this is from 2016.. but to update as my 2012 with 145k just toasted its clutch and I'm in the process of getting it fixed.
The 228 dia clutch "performance kit" from gm is PN
19303797

19303797 Performance Clutch Upgrade Kit

19303797 Performance Clutch Upgrade Kit

www.crateenginedepot.com

Many documents show that this is for cruzes built after May 22 2012.. So that would lead me to believe cruzes before may 22 is the smaller dia. I'm ordering this kit so my car is on the updated design.