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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a little history first,

I have a 2012 ECO 6 speed with about 130k that for the most part have taken of fairly well. I change oil regularly fully synthetic, I've replaced the the manually transmission fluid with Amsoil fully synthetic (that was underfilled from the factory i might add) and doing this really smoothed out the shifts and helped reduce gear whine a little. I've replace that valve cover/PCV valve after engine was surging which turned out to be a vacuum leak that was on backside of valve cover. I replaced the water outlet that was leaking at the o-ring, I replaced all the factory coolant hose clamps with the old fashioned type, I replaced the factory turbo oil supply line that was spewing oil all over my engine with a better designed heat shield style. I had the water pump replaced under special coverage. I fixed my glove box door that fell off (had to epoxy back on). I recently replaced the front Brakes and will soon be on my 3rd set of tires. That's all I can remember for now (as if that's not enough).

Now here's my current/recent issue. after the water pump was replaced a few weeks ago things started to go south. Leaks in the cooling system began popping up everywhere and so I systematically went through and fixed every stinking leak. Soon I started getting lots of OBD codes and my stabilitrak warning popped up and slowed my car 3 times in one night.
The only thing that I can think is that one sensor is triggering the rest of the codes. The new plan is to replace the negative battery cable, check the battery and pull my map sensor and clean it and hopefully one of the three will keep me on the road.

This car is a lemon and I once considered giving to my son when he turned 16 but I couldn't possibly do that now, it's getting traded in at the first opportunity.

Here are my current codes:

4 Confirmed Trouble Codes:
• P0236: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
• P0237: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit Low
• P112C: Check report for description.
• P2227: Barometric Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
9 Pending Trouble Codes:
• P00C7: Intake Air Pressure Measurement System - Multiple Sensor Correlation Bank 1
• P0132: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
• P0134: O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1 Sensor 1
• P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
• P0236: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
• P0237: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit Low
• P0599: Thermostat Heater Control Circuit High
• P112C: Check report for description.
• P2227: Barometric Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
4 Permanent Trouble Codes:
• P0599: Thermostat Heater Control Circuit High
• P0236: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
 

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Until the negative cable is replaced, disregard all codes.

The high resistance will stack codes like crazy......and drive you nutz.

Once the possible high resistance is resolved, address any new codes (after clearing) in the order they come up. The first code is generally the trouble maker and all following codes are resultant.....ignore them.

Please follow up with your findings.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Recommendations for Negative battery cable replacement

I'm looking to replace my negative battery cable and would like advice on fitment and surface prep for installing. I'd like to see what part# people generally use and if they sand surface and apply a die electric grease to it. Any experience you may have please share. Thank you! Most of my ordering is done through Amazon BTW. Looking forward to hearing experiences. 2012 ECO 1.4
 

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