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2012 LT - No Dome Light with Driver Door

10030 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  NickD
Hi All,
Apparently I have a bad switch in the driver door. No Dome light,..open door notification or even Key in ignition notification when I open door with key in ignition.
Anybody fix this switch yet ??.... How hard is it to check / replace ???
All other door functions/switches work fine on Driver door. As well as other doors turning on dome light when opened.

Any help is much appreciated. Pics VERY welcomed. :grin:
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Not only the dome light, if the radio is left on, will switch off when you open the door, with the key in the ignition, will get that annoying beep, also with the drivers door opened, switch your headlamps manual to on to hear another annoying beep.

Certainly cleaned a bunch of dirty switch contacts over the years, heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new one. Even on ignition switches with a point contact for very little surface area, no wonder why the darn things would burn up. Would flattened them for more area and would last five minutes longer.

Have yet to fool with my Cruze door switches, yet, is in the locking mechanism, and of course the shop manual does not show stuff like this, just replace it with another piece of crap switch,

Like most switches in the Cruze, fires commands to either the BCM or ECM, practically zero current, contacts have to be spotless. While I have the shop manual for my Cruze, found it next to worthless, index really sucks and tons of worthless repeated safety information.

Did subscribe to alldata.com found a coupon on the internet, cost around 26 bucks for a two year subscription and does have a search engine, well worth the money. Tells you how to take the door apart, too long to list here. But here is the circuit diagram.

View attachment 195585

Practically all new vehicles are this way now, like they are copying each other. Older vehicles used a real door switch, could keep them open with duct tape so wouldn't go nuts listening to that beep while doing electrical troubleshooting, today, have to wear ear plugs.
 

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I find this difficult to believe also, just a form C switch that grounds the BCM one way or the other depending on whether the door is locked or unlocked. Switch can be tested with an ohmmeter, and anything that feeds the BCM has practically zero current, no power arching like in a real power switch. So must be a very clean switch, just the slightest bid of corrosion on it will prevent its operation.

Ha, never was a problem back then, zero wires went to the doors, today have a ton of them, windows, locks, mirrors, child safety, speakers... Also use to use the minimum of 16AWG wire, not because of the current flow, because it was far more robust. But now finding 28 AWG wire, cheap, and the current flow is next to zero.

Major problem is in sub zero weather, would very carefully open the doors and close them and just wide enough to get in or out, with that cheap plastic insulation in cold weather, those wires can snap into two, and its a very long ride from those doors to the BCM. On some vehicles, had to replace all that crap with 16 AWG neoprene wire that is not subject to cold weather, talk about an all day job.

Did anyone check the continuity of those wires clear to the BCM? Could well be your problem. Another problem is using insulation displacement terminals, sure made the bean counters happy, didn't have to strip the ends of the wires anymore, but just a tiny point contact from a brass terminal to bare copper.

Ha, use to have to hand crank down the window to adjust the side view mirrors, and push a button to lock the doors, but now we have convenience or do we? Aribags kicked out the speakers to the doors. Only good to 25 mph if you are not wearing your safety belt, but good for under 40 mph if you are.
 
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