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2012 LT - No Dome Light with Driver Door

12K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  NickD 
#1 ·
Hi All,
Apparently I have a bad switch in the driver door. No Dome light,..open door notification or even Key in ignition notification when I open door with key in ignition.
Anybody fix this switch yet ??.... How hard is it to check / replace ???
All other door functions/switches work fine on Driver door. As well as other doors turning on dome light when opened.

Any help is much appreciated. Pics VERY welcomed. :grin:
 
#3 ·
I believe the switch is part of the door lock mechanism. At least it seems to be that way for the rear doors. Odd, but with the rear doors people have reported problems of "false open", not "false closed" like you are. Which makes me wonder if the harness isn't shorted. (Or maybe the driver's door works differently.)
 
#4 ·
Works the same as the rest.......since there is no 'Door Open' (ajar) warning, along with no 'Key in Ignition' chime as well as no interior lamp it will be a latch or wire harness failure.

I haven't heard of any wire harnesses breaking (yet) but have heard of many latch failures.

Currently,my money is on a bum latch.

The problem with this is the new latch has to be programmed for the BCM to recognize it.......obviously a dealer will be involved at some point.

Rob
 
#5 ·
Could be the door latch mechanism has gotten corroded and needs to be addressed .......
 
#8 ·
I'm sure you've probably already checked this ... but could your dome light switch on the dome light "console" on the headliner have been accidentally moved so that the dome light doesn't come on when the door is open? Just something to check if you haven't already.
 
#10 ·
I'm sure you've probably already checked this ... but could your dome light switch on the dome light "console" on the headliner have been accidentally moved so that the dome light doesn't come on when the door is open? Just something to check if you haven't already.
Already checked this,..all good.


Not only the dome light, if the radio is left on, will switch off when you open the door, with the key in the ignition, will get that annoying beep, also with the drivers door opened, switch your headlamps manual to on to hear another annoying beep.
Radio stays on and no "Beep" or "Ding" with keys in ignition or lights on with open Driver door.
All other buttons on the door work,..even when exiting the vehicle,..if I press down the verticle lock button, up by the window,..ALL the locks will lock.

I see 2 fasteners holding the switch in the door,...but looks like the panel will have to be removed for this to be replaced.

Thanks everybody.
 
#9 ·
Not only the dome light, if the radio is left on, will switch off when you open the door, with the key in the ignition, will get that annoying beep, also with the drivers door opened, switch your headlamps manual to on to hear another annoying beep.

Certainly cleaned a bunch of dirty switch contacts over the years, heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new one. Even on ignition switches with a point contact for very little surface area, no wonder why the darn things would burn up. Would flattened them for more area and would last five minutes longer.

Have yet to fool with my Cruze door switches, yet, is in the locking mechanism, and of course the shop manual does not show stuff like this, just replace it with another piece of crap switch,

Like most switches in the Cruze, fires commands to either the BCM or ECM, practically zero current, contacts have to be spotless. While I have the shop manual for my Cruze, found it next to worthless, index really sucks and tons of worthless repeated safety information.

Did subscribe to alldata.com found a coupon on the internet, cost around 26 bucks for a two year subscription and does have a search engine, well worth the money. Tells you how to take the door apart, too long to list here. But here is the circuit diagram.

View attachment 195585

Practically all new vehicles are this way now, like they are copying each other. Older vehicles used a real door switch, could keep them open with duct tape so wouldn't go nuts listening to that beep while doing electrical troubleshooting, today, have to wear ear plugs.
 
#12 ·
**UPDATE**
I bought a new door switch,had a local mechanic change it out for me.He said he contacted a Chevy Dealer friend who told him that the switch did not have to be "Programmed",..it should be "Plug-and-Play".
So,...after changing the switch out,... still no dome light or other functions mentioned earlier in this post. Everything is the same,EXCEPT now the BCM is throwing a code,... **U1534 (K9 Body Control Module) LIN Bus 3 Lost Communication With Device 4 (M74D Window Motor - Driver).**
I called a Chevy Dealer close to me and the service Mgr. says "New switch has to be programmed". Around $100.
Thoughts anyone ???
:question: (P.S.- My mechanic didn't charge me for the change of the switch). He's a good guy !!!
Apparently the car now see's the new switch,..but still no dome light.
 
#17 ·
**U1534 (K9 Body Control Module) LIN Bus 3 Lost Communication With Device 4 (M74D Window Motor - Driver).**
Uh, what was replaced? The switch itself is just a switch. But it connects to a module. I'm assuming you've replaced just the switch - which does not require reprogramming. But if the module was replaced, that could be a different story.

The code indicates that communication was lost to the module that drives/controls the window motor. That can happen if the mechanic disconnected the module. And guess what - that module is "live" 24/7. If he didn't disconnect the battery first, I'd expect that code to be there. But it should go into history once the module was reconnected.

I'd suggest disconnecting the battery and letting it sit awhile. Then reconnecting it. That should reboot the system. If that doesn't work, have the mechanic double-check that the module is still connected. I'm sure it's easy to accidentally pull a wire while working in the area.
 
#20 ·
I mentioned the need for programming in post#4.

Why the surprise?
I was under the understanding that the latch is just a pair of dry contacts. I think it connects to the window switch module. Replacing that would be a different deal. So I'm confused on why replacing just the latch/latch switch would require reprogramming. Is it needed to clear the error?
 
#21 ·
The new part has to be 'introduced' to the BCM in so many words.

The replacement part currently can't be identified because the BCM does not recognize the parts new broadcast code.
A 'Lost Communication' code results.....the BCM does not recognize the new code coming through the system.....it is looking for the previous code that was assigned to the old part.

For whatever it is worth, the level of complexity is more aggravating by the day.......all in the name of reducing the amount of secondary switches and wiring.....ugh.

Rob
 
#22 ·
I find this difficult to believe also, just a form C switch that grounds the BCM one way or the other depending on whether the door is locked or unlocked. Switch can be tested with an ohmmeter, and anything that feeds the BCM has practically zero current, no power arching like in a real power switch. So must be a very clean switch, just the slightest bid of corrosion on it will prevent its operation.

Ha, never was a problem back then, zero wires went to the doors, today have a ton of them, windows, locks, mirrors, child safety, speakers... Also use to use the minimum of 16AWG wire, not because of the current flow, because it was far more robust. But now finding 28 AWG wire, cheap, and the current flow is next to zero.

Major problem is in sub zero weather, would very carefully open the doors and close them and just wide enough to get in or out, with that cheap plastic insulation in cold weather, those wires can snap into two, and its a very long ride from those doors to the BCM. On some vehicles, had to replace all that crap with 16 AWG neoprene wire that is not subject to cold weather, talk about an all day job.

Did anyone check the continuity of those wires clear to the BCM? Could well be your problem. Another problem is using insulation displacement terminals, sure made the bean counters happy, didn't have to strip the ends of the wires anymore, but just a tiny point contact from a brass terminal to bare copper.

Ha, use to have to hand crank down the window to adjust the side view mirrors, and push a button to lock the doors, but now we have convenience or do we? Aribags kicked out the speakers to the doors. Only good to 25 mph if you are not wearing your safety belt, but good for under 40 mph if you are.
 
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