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Let me just start with a disclaimer, it is basically impossible to know for sure.

That said, that crack is a very common issue. I have little doubt I probably have one too. :oops::rolleyes: And my car is running just fine.
IMHO, just going off the picture, there seems to be only small amount of exhaust that is leaking by the waste gate flapper.

Does the flapper seem to be in good repair? Like are the linkages tight, does it seat well?
How does the turbo impeller spin? Is there a lot of end play, or side to side movement?

I'm going to quote a knowledgeable guy that knows a lot about this problem.
Almost all internal wastegate turbos crack there. It is the weakest point in the casting at one of the hottest parts of the turbo. Mistubishi, Garett, etc. Very common for the Kxx turbos.

Typically, it will NOT cause underboost codes or really any ill effect until the crack grows so much that the turbo can't build sustain demanded boost anymore (and these things have a crap ton of overhead - unless you're tuned).

A turbo failure is usually due to bearing play (oiling problems, stupid cartridge bearings), or on a Cruze - the pivot pin wears out because the whole stupid thing is cast as one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My brother is right here here beside me I asked him all of the above and he said everything with the turbo looked and seemed fine . No play flapper seems right and the propeller spins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What do you think about under acceleration it has loss of power or when u come to a complete stop and take off it occasionally has a loss of power when pressing on the gas.
 

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I would look at three things. The (front/first) O2 sensor is it responding correctly and quickly? IMO a "slow" O2 sensor will do as you described.
#2 The MAF sensor, I would start by cleaning it.
#3 Spark plugs, how old are they? Do they have a proper gap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just put new plugs in 2 days ago. Today We checked gap on plugs before driving it out the first time. 2 weren’t gapped right. O2 upstream sensor I just replaced maybe 2 months ago. Haven’t yet checked MAF. Also today we took off the valve cover and gasket we saw something online as far as the knock code which I just replaced that sensor 2 weeks ago cause of a engine code but the light came on for it yesterday the orange bridge thing plastic thing that has 2 bolts in it the bolts were loose. So we tightened. Then he looked at the turbo. After putting all back together we drove it out. It is a lot quieter because after the first time taking it out when we returned the ticking was loud with the window down so . On the second time we didn’t get that jerk. I hope it’s done but sometimes it would do it and sometimes it wouldnt
 

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new plugs in 2 days ago. Today We checked gap on plugs before driving it out the first time. 2 weren’t gapped right.
ok, great.

today we took off the valve cover and gasket we saw something online as far as the knock code which I just replaced that sensor 2 weeks ago cause of a engine code but the light came on for it yesterday the orange bridge thing plastic thing that has 2 bolts in it the bolts were loose
Yup, that is a common issue not many people know about. Nice job (y)

Well, since you are really digging into this, I'd check the throttle body next. They need to be cleaned every few years, again this "could" be the issue. Basically what happens is build up keeps the throttle plate from homing and zeroing properly. The software compensates for this, right up until it doesn't. :eek:

BTW your brother seems to be a good mechanic.

O2 upstream sensor I just replaced maybe 2 months ago
I'd like info on this. The vendor and part number plz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you … I buy the parts and we do a lot of research and digging. Chevy took my 160.00 for a engine diagnosis for them to tell me this was happening because of the ac compressor I put on… which was used and that the clutch was shredding… and that was the cause I said ok well let me put my old one back on although I know it wasn’t working or not cooling I know it didn’t ride like that before that. So I’m just going on a whim here. So I put it back on and low and behold it’s still doing it. I said never again. I’ll just keep parting it before I do that again. The last time we were under the hood like 2 weeks ago we took it off and looked and cleaned .. didn’t look like anything was wrong and it also seemed to be pretty clean but i bought the cleaner. So after that we hooked it back up. They him and my dad they do really good. I am a watcher and a helper so all that they have done so far I can now do too😄 best way to be
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay thank you will definitely check into it .. I’m taking all the advice I can get!!!
voltage out put I wouldn’t even know where to begin. I think my brothers new reader may be able to do that I’ll ask. I sent the link to the forum so he can go back and read the responses as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And I’m gonna be honest cause I definitely want my car running as it should run. And smoothly. I didn’t purchase the GM brand for that o2 sensor. I did have a code for it I think. Or that might have just been a part that was suggested for a code fix
 

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P1101 = that code is 99% certainly from the MAF sensor
P0171 = the MAF sensor could be causing this
P0324 = knock sensor fault, this could be just a bad connector/connection. IMO I wouldn't worry about this right now unless it is an active code.

Anyway, I see a trend here. The MAF sensor is probably bad. The same thing applies to it, this has to be OEM.
I can't even tell you how many people come on this site looking for help refusing to believe there brand new $100 super guaranteed part from AutoZone is junk.

All sensors on the Cruze (MAF,O2, coolant temperature, knock, MAP, etc) need to be OE. Not I'll get it if I can, or this other one looks good. ALL SENSORS NEED TO BE OEM.
Some of the after market ones are actually more expensive, and are junk right out of the box. :eek:


Buy it from where ever, but it needs to this one.(y)
Check the MAF connector also, is it fully seated? Broken? Corroded pins?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I haven’t driven it that much but I have driven it with this problem…. But this is my only car … would I have major issues if I drive it until I get that sensor. The last time I drove it today after looking at it it didn’t give any problems but that’s not to say that it won’t if I drive it out. I never dog my car anyways I’m an very easy on the foot driver.
 
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