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Hi, On my 2013 cruze I recently had engine lights on while car was running perfectly fine with no issues for almost a month. Engine light was bothering me, So I bought a scanner and ran the code and it appeared related to thermostat. I forgot the code now but reading through the forums it seemed the issue with thermostat. I replaced the thermostat housing and cleared the code. Car was running fine for 2-3 days. Then my wife noticed oil dripping from the car in garage. I came back and checked to find there was a huge coolant leak and coolant was sprayed everywhere. The leak was due to a broken end of coolant water outlet. I took the tubing out removed the broken end and after tightening leak was gone. Refilled the coolant and thought everything should be fine now. After driving a couple of days more, now the car runs rough after driving for 10-15 miles. Sometimes engine light flashes along with Stabili trak and traction control off signs. Car runs really rough at that point. I read through the forums and it seems issue might be with PCV system or spark plug coil system. I am going to replace the PCV valve pipe today because it broke when I was replacing the thermostat. The pipe is really brittle and when I tried to remove it to access the thermostat it broke at the end. However the valve and the connector seemed fine so I used lots of electrical tape and put it together. The car was running fine after that though.

Any inputs on where to start ??? This is an excellent forum and I love learning about my cruze here :).
 

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1) Find out what the engine code (ECU) is. I bought a small Bluetooth OBD dongle on ebay to plug into the OBD port. There are many youtubes on how to do this. Use the free phone app, Torque(lite) to communicate with the code reader / OBD Adapter. The code reader cost me <10 bucks.

2) The dash readings are very unreliable. I'm currently working on a problem with my ignition coil, and I regularly get messages like Stabili Trak and Traction Control. Today I even got a new one, something to do with my Power Steering needed to be serviced. So refer to #1, and pretty much ignore the stupid stuff GM flashes on the dash. Even the ECU's are not perfect, but they are closer to the real problem.

3) Coil Pack, I had a coil fail. I could see it arcing to the head at night. The engine was skipping like crazy and had no power. I could barely make it up hills on the way home. As I tried to gently remove the coil pack, the rubber boots broke. I bought some replacement boots, but the problem was up the end up inside the coil which had started to corrode and rust. I can see two holes are nice and shiny, and two are pitted and rust-colored. I went on Amazon and bought the cheapest replacement coil pack I could find. It was a HUGE mistake. It worked for 2 months and died. The car would randomly shut off, and startup about 10 minutes later. I thought it was a computer issue, but it was actually the coil. I called the company on Amazon for warranty replacement, and they sent me a replacement coil pack which was completely dead. The car wouldn't start at all. They eventually replaced the dead one, and I got another. This one worked for about a week, and then the car started skipping. I checked all the plugs and they were good, but I replaced the plugs anyway. The skip persisted. I eventually rebuilt my old half rusted coil with new boots, and the skip went away for a couple of hours. I've ordered a MSD coil because it's supposedly much better than stock and I'm waiting for it to come in. I'm hoping the MSD is better than the stock Delco one, which isn't that good either. Pay careful attention to the coil pack connector, they break easy. Make sure the connector inserts all the way to the body of the coil. A couple of things I learned along the way if you remove the spark plugs. Use a magnetic spark plug socket, or loosen the plugs and use a small piece of fuel line to lift them out, by pushing the fuel line on the top of the spark plug. When installing new plugs, make sure they are gapped correctly, and place dielectric grease on the white portion of the plug, so the boots will come off at a later time. Again there are some good Youtubes that show how to do this.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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Hi, On my 2013 cruze I recently had engine lights on while car was running perfectly fine with no issues for almost a month. Engine light was bothering me, So I bought a scanner and ran the code and it appeared related to thermostat. I forgot the code now but reading through the forums it seemed the issue with thermostat. I replaced the thermostat housing and cleared the code. Car was running fine for 2-3 days. Then my wife noticed oil dripping from the car in garage. I came back and checked to find there was a huge coolant leak and coolant was sprayed everywhere. The leak was due to a broken end of coolant water outlet. I took the tubing out removed the broken end and after tightening leak was gone. Refilled the coolant and thought everything should be fine now. After driving a couple of days more, now the car runs rough after driving for 10-15 miles. Sometimes engine light flashes along with Stabili trak and traction control off signs. Car runs really rough at that point. I read through the forums and it seems issue might be with PCV system or spark plug coil system. I am going to replace the PCV valve pipe today because it broke when I was replacing the thermostat. The pipe is really brittle and when I tried to remove it to access the thermostat it broke at the end. However the valve and the connector seemed fine so I used lots of electrical tape and put it together. The car was running fine after that though.

Any inputs on where to start ??? This is an excellent forum and I love learning about my cruze here :).
I already answered this in another of your threads, but I will reiterate that you should purchase the version 3 kit that includes the replacement for the hose you broke to fix the overboost issue that the missing PCV valve is causing.

Because the orange nipple in the intake manifold either falls out or is so contaminated it quits working. This ends up blowing the vacuum regulator diaphragm in the valve cover. If you continue to drive in this condition, the unregulated boost starts to blow the CPASV seals, the front crank seal, the oil pan gasket and many other places. If you fix only some of this piece meal you run the risk of having to re do those portions again.

1. 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained
2. GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits
3. How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold
4. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)
5. How-To: Replace CPASV (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve) Seals
6. How-To: 1.4L Gen 1 front crankshaft seal replacement
7. How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install
8. How-To: Install DDMWorks Throttle Body Spacer 1.4L Turbo
9. How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V2 Install
10. Go to Cruzekits.com and send a message stating you want to purchase the V3 kit.


As for the electrical problems, take a copy of the following TSB to the dealer and tell them you are having electrical issues. They should replace the cable for free if you are within the mileage requirements.

TSB #14311
More suggestions:
How-To: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit
Clean the Terminals
Cruze Battery Upgrade Options
 

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Super Moderator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
Joined
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7,936 Posts
1) Find out what the engine code (ECU) is. I bought a small Bluetooth OBD dongle on ebay to plug into the OBD port. There are many youtubes on how to do this. Use the free phone app, Torque(lite) to communicate with the code reader / OBD Adapter. The code reader cost me <10 bucks.

2) The dash readings are very unreliable. I'm currently working on a problem with my ignition coil, and I regularly get messages like Stabili Trak and Traction Control. Today I even got a new one, something to do with my Power Steering needed to be serviced. So refer to #1, and pretty much ignore the stupid stuff GM flashes on the dash. Even the ECU's are not perfect, but they are closer to the real problem.

3) Coil Pack, I had a coil fail. I could see it arcing to the head at night. The engine was skipping like crazy and had no power. I could barely make it up hills on the way home. As I tried to gently remove the coil pack, the rubber boots broke. I bought some replacement boots, but the problem was up the end up inside the coil which had started to corrode and rust. I can see two holes are nice and shiny, and two are pitted and rust-colored. I went on Amazon and bought the cheapest replacement coil pack I could find. It was a HUGE mistake. It worked for 2 months and died. The car would randomly shut off, and startup about 10 minutes later. I thought it was a computer issue, but it was actually the coil. I called the company on Amazon for warranty replacement, and they sent me a replacement coil pack which was completely dead. The car wouldn't start at all. They eventually replaced the dead one, and I got another. This one worked for about a week, and then the car started skipping. I checked all the plugs and they were good, but I replaced the plugs anyway. The skip persisted. I eventually rebuilt my old half rusted coil with new boots, and the skip went away for a couple of hours. I've ordered a MSD coil because it's supposedly much better than stock and I'm waiting for it to come in. I'm hoping the MSD is better than the stock Delco one, which isn't that good either. Pay careful attention to the coil pack connector, they break easy. Make sure the connector inserts all the way to the body of the coil. A couple of things I learned along the way if you remove the spark plugs. Use a magnetic spark plug socket, or loosen the plugs and use a small piece of fuel line to lift them out, by pushing the fuel line on the top of the spark plug. When installing new plugs, make sure they are gapped correctly, and place dielectric grease on the white portion of the plug, so the boots will come off at a later time. Again there are some good Youtubes that show how to do this.
Tips to ensure no misfires occur because of changing the coil pack:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028,

Set gap with the black portion of this tool.





Measure the gap with feeler gauges.



284857



Throw this away.



284858




Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them,and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them. Lightly coat the boots and springs with dielectric/silicone grease.

I recommend the MSD coil pack

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.
 
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