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Both? That's odd. Note that the windows are controlled by the BCM, not directly by the switches. I'm not by my books right now, but I'd test the fuse with a ohm meter to make sure it doesn't have a hairline crack. I'm not sure what else could cause both windows to fail, unless they shared something like current limiting in the BCM.

If it was me, I think I'd unplug the motors and apply power directly. See if one side is taking far more current than the other. Failing to find something obviously bad with the actual window systems, I think I'd take it to a dealer. Yeah, they're not cheap, but I'm not sure as your average trusted mechanic would so well with computer issues.

Edit: Come to think of it, maybe there's something funky in the programming. Try removing the battery cable for a few minutes to reset the BCM. Then work one window at a time. You may see a message in the DIC about having to run the windows so the BCM can re-learn how to roll them down.
 

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Something I noticed this time is the "door open" notice came up on the DIC and the car alarm didn't arm when trying to use the key fab, and the interior lights also stayed on. This was something new. ....

I'm wondering if a door latch sensor is faulty?
A few have reported that, so it seems likely. But I'm not sure how that would play into the window issue, unless it's really a door wiring issue.
 

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I believe I read in the service manuals that the Cruze has this feature. The Nissan I own requires the windows to be reset whenever the battery is disconnected. If the window isn't already in the full up position.
Yes, it does - or at least something like that. I'm not aware of the auto-reverse, but I think it's used to do the one-touch roll down for the window. That's why I was wondering if there was something funky that disconnecting the battery would fix.
 
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