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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like I’m going to have to pay close to 400 to fix my transmission. Only 50k miles on it. This should not be happening. This is the second time the transmission is being messed with. Last year the house module was leaking. I have so many problems with this car and only being 5 years old is crazy. Any advice. Is their a class action suit going against gm? I conveyed gm I should hear something soon this is ridiculous this is the dealers response the part are national backorder (does that mean the multiple cars has this problem) it might take 3days-3months to fix. Not to mention still had a smell from the heater that won’t go away and help would be appreciated
 

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How many miles on the car?
 

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These lines leaking is common for just about every modern GM product.

And Ford, and Chrysler, and Volvo...

Asking price for the repair seems very high given the cost of the lines. It is not that much labor to replace them. $400 for new lines and a complete trans fluid flush wouldn't be a bad price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well it’s more like 363 still high and it being a second time working on my transmission. The first time was fixing the housing module the caseing.
 

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Powertrain still valid under 5 years timeframe? Probably close being a '13 depending on sale date. Cooler lines should be covered.
 

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I was also told they are on back order and it could be 3 weeks to 3 months, clearly the leak that was such an issue is suddenly not so much an issue....I am at the 3 week time frame, so I am guessing it will be 3 months. I was told by the dealer there are 2 lines, 1 is available however the other is not, that is the delay.
 

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These leak in climates where the temperature gets significantly cold. I had to have a shop do them last winter as it was too cold to work in the garage.

$360 for parts and labor is about what I paid for both the automatic transmission inlet and outlet lines. The mechanic wanted the same price to do just one line vs. two.

Rather than disconnect the lines and attempt to remove just one. (They are clipped together) I think he planned on removing both either way.

Battery needs to come out, battery tray, transmission mount. The connections at the radiator are not clean to get to even from under the car. I was considering doing this in the home garage but I may have come into problems accessing the connectors at the bottom of the radiator. They are tucked behind the frame.

Service manual has you pulling the front bumper cover. The owner of the shop who did the work mentioned he was able to do it without removing any body panels. But he was a bit surprised that the transmission mount under the battery box needed to be pulled.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Powertrain still valid under 5 years timeframe? Probably close being a '13 depending on sale date. Cooler lines should be covered.
More than likely, they are specifically NOT covered. I know on our 2014, they are excluded from the PT warranty, because it makes too much sense.

My buddy has a K2 truck, and his already were leaking - he was able to fight GM into paying to replace them.

Ours are leaking as of about 70k (if not well before, considering they leaked out a lot of trans fluid "for us"), and the powertrain warranty won't cover anything. Go figure. I'd like to look into other options rather than the stock replacements which will just leak again.
 

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If you have a 1.8L motor, not that hard to replace yourself. I replaced mine last year on a 2012 Cruze LS (1.8L) because they were leaking at the barb fitting. I removed the battery , then removed the bolts to the battery holder, and suspended it up to get access to removing/replacing the lines. Way too many wire harnesses attached to completely remove the battery tray. I did not have to remove the transmission mount. I did mine while pulled up on car ramps. Removed the plastic splash shield underneath the car just below the radiator to access the line attached at the bottom of the radiator. Top line could be accessed from top. Lines running into radiator are quick disconnect, so they remove easily once you remove the the snap ring. The line that attaches to the back of transmission is able to be accessed from underneath. I went a step further and replaced the fittings on the radiator that the lines go into because that is where the o ring is. Did not want to go through all the trouble and have the lines start leaking at the o ring. Had to drain the radiator to replace those fittings (or you could avoid the additional work and take a chance). lines could be cut to be removed easily once they are disconnected at the radiator and transmission. Rerouting the new lines was easy and only took about 5 minutes to get both line positioned where they could be attached. I can not imagine a garage spending more than 2 hours to complete the job. I know I paid about $35 at Rock Auto for the two lines and two fittings for the radiator. Local Dealer wanted $250 to just replace lines (no fittings on radiator). Based on my experience, I believe that it could be done by a person who has some car maintenance experience.
 
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