[holysbit]

2013 Cruze with about 71k miles, and a while ago it started misfiring on acceleration. I found a faulty spark plug and changed the set. I did see a little oil on the plugs but I do not know how old they were, I got the car at about 60k. Anyway, I put new plugs in and the misfire seemed to go away for a while. Now, the car will shutter when accelerating. It almost feels like a misfire or maybe a boost issue. I have checked what PCV things I could and cant see an issue. Maybe the air intake valve... note there was a small amount of oil in the intercooler charge line, I had an issue with both O2 sensors recently and they were replaced about 4k miles ago, and once I had an issue with a MAF sensor but that went away after I unplugged and replugged the sensor in. The car doesnt smoke and doesnt seem to burn oil, though I suspect the oil pan gasket is seeping, but thats unrelated. The air filter isnt all oily either.

Anyway, there are no CEL or codes, and the idle seems fine. But when I accelerate to like get on the highway, it will shudder. You can feel yourself go back and forth as it rapid fire shudders, and I cannot tell if thats it losing boost or missing. It does it at about the same RPMs every time too, about 3500. Messing with it, I could only get it to shudder if I was at about 3500 RPMs and also under moderate to heavy acceleration. Once you get to like 4000 RPM, it gets consistent again. Could it be the solenoid for the turbo at the back of the engine that controls the wastegate actuator? Is there a way to test if its a miss or a boost issue when it can only be observed under heavy load?

Maybe since it happens at a specific RPM range it has to do with the springs on the wastegate system or similar, where it flutters until the boost is high enough to keep it open or something, just wondering out loud.

This is my daily driver and I work 6 days a week so I have not much time to really dig into stuff and I dont want to take it to a shop if I dont have to, too expensive. Any advice on what to check or maybe if someone just knows whats going on?

 

[Blasirl]

2013 Cruze with about 71k miles, and a while ago it started misfiring on acceleration. I found a faulty spark plug and changed the set. I did see a little oil on the plugs but I do not know how old they were, I got the car at about 60k. Anyway, I put new plugs in and the misfire seemed to go away for a while. Now, the car will shutter when accelerating. It almost feels like a misfire or maybe a boost issue. I have checked what PCV things I could and cant see an issue. Maybe the air intake valve... note there was a small amount of oil in the intercooler charge line, I had an issue with both O2 sensors recently and they were replaced about 4k miles ago, and once I had an issue with a MAF sensor but that went away after I unplugged and replugged the sensor in. The car doesnt smoke and doesnt seem to burn oil, though I suspect the oil pan gasket is seeping, but thats unrelated. The air filter isnt all oily either.

Anyway, there are no CEL or codes, and the idle seems fine. But when I accelerate to like get on the highway, it will shudder. You can feel yourself go back and forth as it rapid fire shudders, and I cannot tell if thats it losing boost or missing. It does it at about the same RPMs every time too, about 3500. Messing with it, I could only get it to shudder if I was at about 3500 RPMs and also under moderate to heavy acceleration. Once you get to like 4000 RPM, it gets consistent again. Could it be the solenoid for the turbo at the back of the engine that controls the wastegate actuator? Is there a way to test if its a miss or a boost issue when it can only be observed under heavy load?

Maybe since it happens at a specific RPM range it has to do with the springs on the wastegate system or similar, where it flutters until the boost is high enough to keep it open or something, just wondering out loud.

This is my daily driver and I work 6 days a week so I have not much time to really dig into stuff and I dont want to take it to a shop if I dont have to, too expensive. Any advice on what to check or maybe if someone just knows whats going on?

Welcome Aboard!

When you have it at 3500 and it is shuddering, can you see the tach needle move back and forth a bit? If so it is missing maybe due to spark blowout or a bad coil. What did you gap the plugs at? Stock should be at about .028.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

 

[holysbit]

Welcome Aboard!

When you have it at 3500 and it is shuddering, can you see the tach needle move back and forth a bit? If so it is missing maybe due to spark blowout or a bad coil. What did you gap the plugs at? Stock should be at about .028.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

So, while trying to test that, I actually threw codes and was able to read them! This happened twice. The first time, I had a missfire on cylinder 1. That was on my way to work. On my way home I threw a code for multiple/random cylinder missfires. I wish my commute wasnt 100 miles a day but it is what it is. So it is missfiring. I am not sure why though.

I learned that this car has multiple parts to its PCV system, and there were check valves I didnt know about. The one inside the air intake is dirty but present. It might be kinda gummed up? It was real dirty and I was going to try and clean it with some rubbing alcohol. I tried to check the check valve near the turbo inside that PCV hose and saw the hose wasnt full of oil per say, but was wet with oil. Any tips on what to check or disassemble? At least there is some progress, it seems to be missing.

I am trying to keep doing research, maybe the check valve near the turbo is bad? Would that check valve cause oil to get everywhere? The coil pack isnt too old, and I cant take the plugs out because its raining, but oily plugs can cause a missfire right? I kinda understand the concept of engines but I am not so good at finding out whats going on when they break...

 

[Blasirl]

So, while trying to test that, I actually threw codes and was able to read them! This happened twice. The first time, I had a missfire on cylinder 1. That was on my way to work. On my way home I threw a code for multiple/random cylinder missfires. I wish my commute wasnt 100 miles a day but it is what it is. So it is missfiring. I am not sure why though.

I learned that this car has multiple parts to its PCV system, and there were check valves I didnt know about. The one inside the air intake is dirty but present. It might be kinda gummed up? It was real dirty and I was going to try and clean it with some rubbing alcohol. I tried to check the check valve near the turbo inside that PCV hose and saw the hose wasnt full of oil per say, but was wet with oil. Any tips on what to check or disassemble? At least there is some progress, it seems to be missing.

I am trying to keep doing research, maybe the check valve near the turbo is bad? Would that check valve cause oil to get everywhere? The coil pack isnt too old, and I cant take the plugs out because its raining, but oily plugs can cause a missfire right? I kinda understand the concept of engines but I am not so good at finding out whats going on when they break...

Post the codes.

Read this for the PCV issue:
2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

For the misfire, start here:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf

Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

Set gap with the black portion of this tool.

To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

Measure the gap with feeler gauges.

Throw this away.

Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.

A good replacement coil is the MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236

How-To: Remove and Replace the Coil Pack and Spark Plugs.

While you are in there, if you have a cheap endoscope, look at the pistons. This can also tell you many things.

 

[holysbit]

Post the codes.

Read this for the PCV issue:
2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

For the misfire, start here:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf

Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

Set gap with the black portion of this tool.

To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

Measure the gap with feeler gauges.

Throw this away.

Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.

A good replacement coil is the MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236

How-To: Remove and Replace the Coil Pack and Spark Plugs.

While you are in there, if you have a cheap endoscope, look at the pistons. This can also tell you many things.

Ok so I was finally able to look at some more stuff. It was throwing P0300, for random/multiple misfire detected.

I looked at the plugs and saw they were fouled, and needed re-gapped. See picture. Doing research on the type of fouling, it could be too much oil being combusted, or poor fuel but tons of my friends go to the same place as me for fuel and have no issue so I dont suspect its the fuel.

I did a compression test and the car seemed to pass, everyone was within about 15% of 150, so I didnt feel concerned about that either.

I checked all my PCV check valves as I could, and I have one suspicion.
1. For the valve cover, while running, it wasnt sucking air in though the hole, and the engine didnt react when I covered the hole.
2. The turbo inlet valve seems good because I cant blow past it.
3. The air intake check valve is present, but either ruptured or really stuck open. I can see the indicator there, and I tried cleaning it as good as I could (it was really dirty) but I have all the symptoms described in the post explaining the PCV system. I have oil in my intake tubing (from the turbo if my hypothesis about the check valve is right), oil leaking from my throttle body where the intake hose connects, I have oil seeping from my drain pan, and theres the fouled plugs which are not that old as far as plugs go. I dont have exhaust smoke or related trouble codes however, but I am beginning to think this air intake check valve is the problem, even though its still there (or at least the indicator is)

There doesnt seem to be oil in my plug wells, just on the plugs themselves. I dont have an endoscope but I looked into the cylinders and they seemed dirty, and somewhat oily.

I am considering replacing the PCV hose and installing the aftermarket air intake check valve kit. If I were to do the kit, should I try to remove the check valve built into the air intake? Or just leave it there.... Do you guys think that would solve my problem? I am just trying hard to avoid replacing what I dont need to as I am but a poor college kid, though I need a working car so if it is a good idea I will do it.

Also, the PCV hose has a tiny little hose thats a part of the assembly, that was a pain to put back together, especially where it connects to the back of the engine. Can someone tell me what that is for?

 

[Blasirl]

Ok so I was finally able to look at some more stuff. It was throwing P0300, for random/multiple misfire detected.

I looked at the plugs and saw they were fouled, and needed re-gapped. See picture. Doing research on the type of fouling, it could be too much oil being combusted, or poor fuel but tons of my friends go to the same place as me for fuel and have no issue so I dont suspect its the fuel.
View attachment 293696

I did a compression test and the car seemed to pass, everyone was within about 15% of 150, so I didnt feel concerned about that either.

I checked all my PCV check valves as I could, and I have one suspicion.
1. For the valve cover, while running, it wasnt sucking air in though the hole, and the engine didnt react when I covered the hole.
2. The turbo inlet valve seems good because I cant blow past it.
3. The air intake check valve is present, but either ruptured or really stuck open. I can see the indicator there, and I tried cleaning it as good as I could (it was really dirty) but I have all the symptoms described in the post explaining the PCV system. I have oil in my intake tubing (from the turbo if my hypothesis about the check valve is right), oil leaking from my throttle body where the intake hose connects, I have oil seeping from my drain pan, and theres the fouled plugs which are not that old as far as plugs go. I dont have exhaust smoke or related trouble codes however, but I am beginning to think this air intake check valve is the problem, even though its still there (or at least the indicator is)
View attachment 293707
View attachment 293708

There doesnt seem to be oil in my plug wells, just on the plugs themselves. I dont have an endoscope but I looked into the cylinders and they seemed dirty, and somewhat oily.
View attachment 293709

I am considering replacing the PCV hose and installing the aftermarket air intake check valve kit. If I were to do the kit, should I try to remove the check valve built into the air intake? Or just leave it there.... Do you guys think that would solve my problem? I am just trying hard to avoid replacing what I dont need to as I am but a poor college kid, though I need a working car so if it is a good idea I will do it.

Also, the PCV hose has a tiny little hose thats a part of the assembly, that was a pain to put back together, especially where it connects to the back of the engine. Can someone tell me what that is for?

Are you referring to the green stiped hose?

 

[holysbit]

Are you referring to the green stiped hose?

I think it connects to the same area as the green striped hose but it is a tiny black hose that goes from the turbo to the back of the engine, and it is tied to the PCV hose, it comes with it if I were to buy one.

Also, I wanted to try my ignition system so I put new plugs in and bought a new coil. I test drove on the new plugs with old coil and all my issues went away. So my ignition system doesnt seem to be the culprit and I am back to looking at my PCV system.

This is killing me, please does anyone have advice? The plugs look ash fouled like im burning oil but my pistons are dry and there is wet oil (a film) on ONLY the threads of the old sparkplugs. The heads are dry and somewhat ashy, and the tops, ie the insulator and terminal, are completely dry. My plug wells are dry and the engine has good compression. I have seen where oil from the valve cover gasket can leak but that part is dry, the walls of the plug wells are completely dry and like said the tops of each spark plug is bone dry as well.

Where is this oil coming from?!

The last two things I can think of is the PCV hose and the air intake check valve. I am ordering a PCV hose tonight and probably a fix kit for the air intake. Should I leave the old remmants of the original air intake check valve or should I try to scoop those out? The original is either partially blown or really gummed up, I tried for a good 20 minutes with cotton swabs and alcohol and havnt made any progress into the missfire.

 

[Blasirl]

I think it connects to the same area as the green striped hose but it is a tiny black hose that goes from the turbo to the back of the engine, and it is tied to the PCV hose, it comes with it if I were to buy one.

Also, I wanted to try my ignition system so I put new plugs in and bought a new coil. I test drove on the new plugs with old coil and all my issues went away. So my ignition system doesnt seem to be the culprit and I am back to looking at my PCV system.

This is killing me, please does anyone have advice? The plugs look ash fouled like im burning oil but my pistons are dry and there is wet oil (a film) on ONLY the threads of the old sparkplugs. The heads are dry and somewhat ashy, and the tops, ie the insulator and terminal, are completely dry. My plug wells are dry and the engine has good compression. I have seen where oil from the valve cover gasket can leak but that part is dry, the walls of the plug wells are completely dry and like said the tops of each spark plug is bone dry as well.

Where is this oil coming from?!

The last two things I can think of is the PCV hose and the air intake check valve. I am ordering a PCV hose tonight and probably a fix kit for the air intake. Should I leave the old remmants of the original air intake check valve or should I try to scoop those out? The original is either partially blown or really gummed up, I tried for a good 20 minutes with cotton swabs and alcohol and havnt made any progress into the missfire.

If you watched the video for the installation of the fix kit it has already answered most of your questions.