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Discussion Starter #1
Follow-up to this thread: 2014 Cruze 1.4l Turbo - Coolant level low weeks after shop performed flush/fill service (pics inside)

I discovered the leak coming from a hairline crack on the overflow tank. The shop told me it was leaking from the 'turbo coolant return pipe' and wanted $300. I replaced the overflow tank with the Dorman model and filled the coolant back up, it only took half a gallon.

Of course, now it seems I got air in the system, as I notice after driving the coolant in the tank was bubbling/boiling and there is moisture build-up on the inside top of the tank. I also noticed immediately after replacing overflow tank that the heat in the cabin comes out way hotter than normal, even on the lowest setting.

I don't have tools where I live and I am of course an idiot with this stuff, but I parked on an incline and idled with the coolant cap off for 30 minutes to try to burp the system. No luck, I noticed the radiator fan never even turned on once in 30 minutes of idling, whereas it was running normally two days ago when I replaced the overflow tank. I drove it for a few minutes, parked and noticed no bubbling in the tank but I can hear faint hissing sound from the tank, and lots of rushing/swishing water sounds coming from within the engine. I checked the overflow cap and it seems to be screwed on correctly.

I am at a complete loss as to what to think of next, and am not in position financially to even have a new mechanic look at it for at least another week but don't want to destroy my engine with potential overheating issues.

Any advice or thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, I did.

I brought it to the shop, they insisted it was only the turbo coolant return line. I told them I saw coolant leaking out of the reservoir and left cardboard under engine for few days and only saw leak from directly under reservoir. I observed this happening and later found hairline crack in tank where coolant was spraying out when pressurized only. Here's a pic of the turbo coolant line they pointed out as a leak:
They filled the tank above the arrow for me and it was drained empty 5 days later as I observed the crack worsen. Replaced tank myself. The coolant line has remained steady since.

The primary concern now is the bubbling/swishing water noises after driving, witnessing the coolant in the reservoir bubbling/boiling after driving for an hour, and radiator fan never turning on after idling and revving engine on and off for 30 minutes, whereas it would turn on at least for a few moments. prior to that when idling.
he thing that worried me after replacing the reservoir was that I noticed how hot the heating in the cabin became immediately after replacing it, even on the lowest heat setting and even if I turn the knob all the way to cool.

I also just checked again and noticed light, white smoke coming from bottom front area of the motor/turbo for the first minute after turning on engine and faint sweet odor, but not from where they pointed out where their leak was detected.

Is it possible to bleed the system with the valve even if the coolant is topped off or would I have to flush it and start from scratch?
 

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Hi, from my own recent diy experience with my 2012 1.4 eco.
After a drive with engine at operating temp, check the hose between thermostat and radiator. If it is cold, then a stuck closed failed tstat is part of the issue.
I had too hot cabin heat, along with too hot engine temp and fluctuating gauge. My res tank was leaking and fan op was odd.
During t-stat (full acdelco unit) replacement I also replaced tank, radiator sensor and coolant outlet sensor. Cleaned up spills/drips so new/existing leaks could be detected.
Followed the standard fill instructions; on level surface,
fill the coolant system using res tank, with white radiator bleed screw loosened. Tighten radiator screw when coolant comes out of that opening. Verify coolant tank is kept filled up to arrow marking. Replace res tank cap. Start engine and warm up to op temp with cabin heat dial on hot but cabin fan not necessary. Rev engine on occasion to 2k to help circulate coolant and warm engine. Check for leaks and normal gauge. Check res tank for next couple days in the morning before starting engine(top off if necessary) and view after driving at op temp.
Fix cost $110.00 in parts including new 50/50 dexcool.
I found my subscription to alldata useful. I got most of my parts on amazon. This forum was a large part of my diy success.
This was my experience, good luck with yours.
 
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