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2014-15 Diesel: What broke and at how many miles?

9461 Views 53 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  revjpeterson
wanna make a one stop place to share what has broken on these cars and what miles

see if theres a pattern, know how long components will last, etc...


oil filter gutter 50k
rear shocks 60k
battery 70k
front shocks 80k
front brakes 90k
rear brakes 90k
front hub 100k
rear hub 120k
glow plugs 125k


im emissions deleted so that stuff breaking isnt reportable in my case
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There is quite a few battery posts here. Batteries do not care about mileage. They degrade with age. They also degrade much quicker if left discharged because a discharged battery will corrode its inner plates much faster than a fully charged battery. The mode of failure is plate corrosion with cheaper batteries having thinner plates that disintergrate faster than better ones. Just about every standard battery will dramatically lose its ability to function between 4 and 5 years of age. Tricks exist to blast the corrosion off and extend the clock but thats not for the faint of heart.

AGM batteries work and age quite well. Our AGM battery was replaced for free twice already with no fuss with the Pep Boys 4 year warranty. Most other retailers prorate their warranty with age and also limit the replacements. Pep Boys just looked at the sticker and if its less than 4 years old they swap it. Thus starts a new 4 year timer.

Avoid Optima batteries unless you routinely operate the vehicle upside down. They work awesome right until they don't. They abruptly die between 2 and 3 years of age typically.

Be aware that Cruze battery cables are poorly made. A recall went out for the negative cables. Ours fritzed out and I found the wire was pulled out and bulged into a ball under the insulation. This picture shows what it looked like when it broke down suddenly for the bad negative cable. The short red one was also in very poor condition and replaced shortly after. The crimp at the alternator also sucked because it was loose and green with rampant corrosion inside the loose crimp. I ran a new ground from the engine to the battery and it caused errors. I had to relocate the extra grounds to the chassis post so that the current sensor isnt bypassed.

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202k miles at the moment.
Battery was replaced around 2018
150k replaced oil sensor gasket / o ring.
165k all 4 shocks were shot, along with tie rods
180k A/C compressor

mileage is approx. didn’t note exact numbers.
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Got a P205 this past week.

DEF temp out of range.

Sensor in the DEF heater went north.

59,700 miles.
At 275K miles the timing belt jumped three cogs. I don't know for sure that the belt was replaced at either the 100K or 200K recommended miles but my hunch is that it was probably replaced at 100K but not at 200K. It caused the car to go into limp mode (transmission stuck in 2nd gear) and showed codes P0016 "Camshaft Position to Crankshaft Position Correlation Error" and P0341 "Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Performance". If in limp mode it showed ABS codes U0101-71 "Lost Communication with Transmission Control Module- Invalid Data", U0100-71 "Lost Communication with Engine Control Module- Invalid Data", and C0800-03 "Control Module Power Circuit- Low Voltage." All those codes cleared with the new timing belt. The timing belt itself was noticeably stretched but the real culprit was the tensioner was left loose by the previous owner when they replaced the injection pump. The old belt had enough cracks and dryrot to maybe be original to the car.

At 285K we sliced the wire to the passenger side wheel speed sensor. Replacing the sensor cleared the codes. The codes were ABS C0186, C0040, C0800-03, and C0196-71.

We're just shy of 287K now. We should break 300K before Christmas.
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Just passed 200k miles. List of work done.

5,000 miles - Side Object Sensor replaced
11,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
16,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
(I purchased vehicle at 31,000 miles)
32,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced and Flashed ECM
39,000 miles - Nox Sensor Position 1 replaced
47,000 miles - Replaced Side Object sensor
52,000 miles - Replaced Nox Position 1 Sensor
60,000 miles - Replaced Reductant Tank Reservoir Heater
63,000 miles - Resealed leaking oil pan, replaced oil pump pickup seal, pcv tube seal, pcv connector seal
93,000 miles - Replaced 2 Front Drive Axles, Replaced 2 Front Wheel Bearings, Front Rotors
95,000 miles - Replaced Negative Battery Cable (appx miles, I didn't record this in my notes)
108,000 miles - Replaced Side Object Sensors and installed cover per TSB
124,000 miles - Replaced Battery, Replaced Timing Belt, Water Pump, Timing Tensioner, Timing Idler
136,000 miles - Replaced Transmission Cooler Line
137,000 miles - Replaced Reductant Tank Reservoir Heater
146,000 miles - Replaced Inner & Outer Tie Rods
158,000 miles - Replaced Accessory (Serpentine) Belt
177,000 miles - Replaced Lower Control Arms L&R
180,000 miles - Replaced Oil Cooler Inlet Hose
196,000 miles - Replaced Diesel Injector #2
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Just passed 200k miles. List of work done.

5,000 miles - Side Object Sensor replaced
11,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
16,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
(I purchased vehicle at 31,000 miles)
32,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced and Flashed ECM
39,000 miles - Nox Sensor Position 1 replaced
47,000 miles - Replaced Side Object sensor
52,000 miles - Replaced Nox Position 1 Sensor
60,000 miles - Replaced Reductant Tank Reservoir Heater
63,000 miles - Resealed leaking oil pan, replaced oil pump pickup seal, pcv tube seal, pcv connector seal
93,000 miles - Replaced 2 Front Drive Axles, Replaced 2 Front Wheel Bearings, Front Rotors
95,000 miles - Replaced Negative Battery Cable (appx miles, I didn't record this in my notes)
108,000 miles - Replaced Side Object Sensors and installed cover per TSB
124,000 miles - Replaced Battery, Replaced Timing Belt, Water Pump, Timing Tensioner, Timing Idler
136,000 miles - Replaced Transmission Cooler Line
137,000 miles - Replaced Reductant Tank Reservoir Heater
146,000 miles - Replaced Inner & Outer Tie Rods
158,000 miles - Replaced Accessory (Serpentine) Belt
177,000 miles - Replaced Lower Control Arms L&R
180,000 miles - Replaced Oil Cooler Inlet Hose
196,000 miles - Replaced Diesel Injector #2
im thinking your listing stuff beyond the 'normal' replacement items, (wiper blades, oil changes, filters, etc)...but it is also a detailed list....have you not changed shocks or just not posting them cuz theyre part of 'normal replacement' items?

was the injector leaky?
im thinking your listing stuff beyond the 'normal' replacement items, (wiper blades, oil changes, filters, etc)...but it is also a detailed list....have you not changed shocks or just not posting them cuz theyre part of 'normal replacement' items?

was the injector leaky?
Yeah, list does not include fluid changes, tires, wipers, and air filters though I do have records of all that (date/miles).

Injector info here.
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Yeah, list does not include fluid changes, tires, wipers, and air filters though I do have records of all that (date/miles).

Injector info here.
shocks?
Nope. I've thought about it but their not leaking, not bouncing, and not doing much forward or backward wobble while accelerating or braking. So my guess their still in good shape.
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Nope. I've thought about it but their not leaking, not bouncing, and not doing much forward or backward wobble while accelerating or braking. So my guess their still in good shape.
Glad to hear that - ours are of a similar nature at ~125k miles. I bought a set of B6s all around, but mainly just to buy them to have on hand should I need to change them. The car still rides/handles in a similar fashion as it always has.
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Mine still drives to me like the day I got it.
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Nope. I've thought about it but their not leaking, not bouncing, and not doing much forward or backward wobble while accelerating or braking. So my guess their still in good shape.
my stock ones were shot
the b6s i put on lasted aboot the same
put in discount shocks, they lasted less time, but still cheaper than the bilsteins pro rated
replaced with same discount ones

i saw you replaced ctrl arms and tie rods and was thinking your roads must be worse than mine, but i go thru more shocks than you, so no.
i saw you replaced ctrl arms and tie rods and was thinking your roads must be worse than mine, but i go thru more shocks than you, so no.
Tie rod ends I replaced just because I thought the inner's were a little loose as part of my issue with inner tire wear. They were probably fine and it was more of a throwing parts at it.

For the control arms, my left front ball joint was failing so I just did both sides.
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Oh, I forgot to mention, around 100k mile I replaced both headlight lenses. One of the orange diffusers on the turn signal lamp broke off inside, so I had both replaced because I could only buy lenses with clear diffusers w/orange bulbs. I also replaced the drivers side sun visor around 150,000k miles becuase it was flopping around on the hinge, though it did this since I bought the car it so it was probably a factory defect on the visor.
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Oh, I forgot to mention, around 100k mile I replaced both headlight lenses. One of the orange diffusers on the turn signal lamp broke off inside, so I had both replaced because I could only buy lenses with clear diffusers w/orange bulbs. I also replaced the drivers side sun visor around 150,000k miles becuase it was flopping around on the hinge, though it did this since I bought the car it so it was probably a factory defect on the visor.
My drivers side visor has done the same. The issue seems to be the visor clip which was either new from factory weak or getting weak with use. It rattles on bumps ,but otherwise is not much of a concern. Passenger side is fine.
Well the clip thing failed too, yes, but the hinge where it swings was the problem. Like if you had it on the side and turned sharply, the whole visor would swing over and hit me on the head.
Well the clip thing failed too, yes, but the hinge where it swings was the problem. Like if you had it on the side and turned sharply, the whole visor would swing over and hit me on the head.
That sounds like what my Camaro does, among 30 other annoying things. :LOL:
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Passenger rear brake caliper bolt (upper) was found MIA last week. I swapped for snows Nov 14th at 138,215 miles. It was not missing then. I drove about 1000 miles since the tire swap. Valve stem leak prompted the tire removal, which is when I found the bolt was missing. All new pads, rotors, and caliper bracket bolts at 123,235 October 30 of last year, everything torqued to spec. It's an M8x1x23.5, torque spec 21ft-lb. Blue loc tite from now on.

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That's mildly concerning - so this was the one without the mass damper, correct?
Without the mas damper. Yeah, super weird. I was only prompted to take the tire off due to the leaky valve stem. When I went to spin the tire with it up on the lift, there was a suspicious amount of resistance to rotate. Immediately given away when I pulled the tire off and saw that the caliper was just ever so slightly off center.


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