2014-15 Diesel: What broke and at how many miles?

9468 Views 53 Replies 14 Participants Last post by revjpeterson, 1 mo ago

boraz

Discussion Starter · Sep 12, 2021 (Edited)

wanna make a one stop place to share what has broken on these cars and what miles

see if theres a pattern, know how long components will last, etc...

oil filter gutter 50k
rear shocks 60k
battery 70k
front shocks 80k
front brakes 90k
rear brakes 90k
front hub 100k
rear hub 120k
glow plugs 125k

im emissions deleted so that stuff breaking isnt reportable in my case

Reactions: 2

41 - 54 of 54 Posts

MP81

· #41 · 5 mo ago

That is so strange - those don't typically work themselves loose...

God I hate sliding calipers.

Reactions: 1

boraz

Discussion Starter · #42 · 5 mo ago

i had a lower rear shock bolt work it way out and disappear (my fault, i replaced the shock ~1yr prior) was torqued, i think its one of those TTY bolts, so....play with fire, but thats the only bolt thats come out or loosen on the car and ive reused all the tty bolts

boraz

Discussion Starter · #43 · 5 mo ago

i had both rear calipers seize (one fully and one on its way) and take out the inner rear brake pads

i cleaned out the slide holes and slide pins and lubed em up and 30,000 miles and 2yrs later one was seized up again (drivers side), so cleaned em up again and now every spring and fall when i switch out the winter/summer tires, i spend some time on the slides

i wondered if it was the actual piston seizing or a combo, so bought new calipers, but of course wrong ones were sent, soo am contiuing with the 2x a yr 'fixing'

NUMBER2

· #44 · 5 mo ago

Confirmed today that my lower slide is seized on both rears. 100 bucks for a pair of brackets and kits from the dealer, re-machine the rotors and I'll be on my way with the same regimen as you from now on @boraz. Pads have a half mm or less of taper wear, I can live with that.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

Reactions: 1

MP81

· #45 · 5 mo ago

NUMBER2 said:
Confirmed today that my lower slide is seized on both rears. 100 bucks for a pair of brackets and kits from the dealer, re-machine the rotors and I'll be on my way with the same regimen as you from now on @boraz. Pads have a half mm or less of taper wear, I can live with that.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

Further cementing my hatred for sliding calipers. Thank god my brother's Regal has Brembos up front, though he still has slidings out back (though at least with ventilated rotors).

Reactions: 1

Boathook36

· #46 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

5

My front coil springs gave out at 311,000 miles. I rebuilt the struts with stiffer coil springs and went up another tire size using Chevy Equinox rims and 28.4" tires. I'll be doing the rear soon. I also found the seals at both input and output flanges on the intercooler were blown out. The interior of the intercooler looked horrid and was likely badly clogged. I added fernco seals and replaced the intercooler with a pipe. I'll eventually upgrade to a better intercooler but the pipe is adequate. The tube from the airflow sensor was broken and I made another with a trimmed down PVC 45 degree fitting and two early 90's Jeep XJ throttle body tubes cut down to just the flange.

See less See more

jwarcop

· #47 · 2 mo ago

I'm not sure this time. It won't start. Kid limped mode home and the scan tool says last reason of "overheating". Grill actuator is beat up and looks like something was hit underneath. Sigh. I think I'm done with this thing.

BDCCruze

· #48 · 2 mo ago

Finally put rear brakes on at 212K miles. Still had about 4mm left as the originally equipped brakes but figured it was time. Glad I did because one of the brake pads separated from the backing plate and was just floating in there. Good point to make in the rust belt to replace your pads every 5-8 years even if you have life left in them.

MP81

· #49 · 2 mo ago

Adding:

Oil Level Sensor & PCV Breather O-Rings (123,600 miles, 6/14/22)
Oil Pump Pickup Seal - Preventative, used aftermarket aluminum seal (123,600 miles, 6/17/22)
Transmission Drain Plug Seal Washer, Right Axle Washer (123,600 miles, 6/18/22)
DPF to Exhaust and SCR to Rear Exhaust Gaskets, Stainless Bolts/Nuts (123,600 miles, 6/19/22)
Replaced Serpentine Belt - Snapped while driving (127,331 miles, 9/3/22)
Replaced MAP Sensor (136,109 miles, 4/7/23)

Reactions: 1

revjpeterson

· #50 · 2 mo ago

Looks like my Cruze is going to be getting a RF end link for the 4th time now. LF is still going strong on #2. I'm really surprised that the rest of the front steering/suspension is still holding up well. I went through yesterday and the tie rods move very freely, but don't have any play in them. Ball joints were both solid and struts are even doing well for 225k miles. End links on the other hand, I'm just going to consider a wear item to be done every 2 years.

MP81

· #51 · 2 mo ago

I can't say I've noticed any noises that I would associate with bad swaybar end links - ours are still original at 136k miles

revjpeterson

· #52 · 2 mo ago

MP81 said:
I can't say I've noticed any noises that I would associate with bad swaybar end links - ours are still original at 136k miles

I've become so familiar with the sound that I can tell you just from listening, without even inspecting. The set I put on to replace the originals were the Moog steel end links instead of the factory plastic. It could be that the plastic end links are more durable because the plastic flexes to take stress off the joints on the ends. The right side has now gone through 2 Detroit Axle steel end links after the Moog. Since the right keeps breaking while the Moog on the left has almost 150k on it, it could just be a function of dealing with the crumbling right side of most West Michigan roads. I've thought about going back to the plastic, but I like the performance of the steel better. Once I use up this last steel end link I have sitting on the shelf, I'll probably go back to plastic next time it breaks, since I'll be passing it on to daughter #2 shortly after that point and the durability will be a higher priority than the performance.

Diesel4Ever

· #53 · 1 mo ago

What is the sound? I’ve got steel end links and now have a squeak on the right side. Thought it was from a bushing but after reading your post now not sure maybe the R end link is going out after 30k miles.

Whiteline makes adjustable end links for our cars which I may install next time.

revjpeterson said:
I've become so familiar with the sound that I can tell you just from listening, without even inspecting. The set I put on to replace the originals were the Moog steel end links instead of the factory plastic. It could be that the plastic end links are more durable because the plastic flexes to take stress off the joints on the ends. The right side has now gone through 2 Detroit Axle steel end links after the Moog. Since the right keeps breaking while the Moog on the left has almost 150k on it, it could just be a function of dealing with the crumbling right side of most West Michigan roads. I've thought about going back to the plastic, but I like the performance of the steel better. Once I use up this last steel end link I have sitting on the shelf, I'll probably go back to plastic next time it breaks, since I'll be passing it on to daughter #2 shortly after that point and the durability will be a higher priority than the performance.

revjpeterson

· #54 · 1 mo ago

Diesel4Ever said:
What is the sound? I’ve got steel end links and now have a squeak on the right side. Thought it was from a bushing but after reading your post now not sure maybe the R end link is going out after 30k miles.

Whiteline makes adjustable end links for our cars which I may install next time.

It's a mild clunk going over bumps. The first time I thought it was a spring insulator or strut mount, before I finally tracked it down.

41 - 54 of 54 Posts