[75laney78]

So this is kind of a long story but I need some help.

2014 Chevy Cruze Eco 1.4 L Turbo - Automatic - LHD - United States

I purchased my Cruze in August 2016 and it has been a great little car until this year. I started having issues a couple of months ago with decreased acceleration/power. I then noticed what I thought was a squeak but turned out to be a whistle and the problems just snowballed from there. The vehicle had all of the following symptoms: decreased acceleration/power, engine oil life warning (although the oil had recently been changed), whistle from engine, decreased gas mileage, Traction Control Service light and Stabilitrack Service light.

From the wonderful posts on here, I realized that this was the notorious PCV valve issue. Brought it into my local Chevy dealer and they concurred and replaced the PCV valve (the entire valve cover as we all know). Got the car back in one day and everything was great, it was covered under the Powertrain warranty and they even gave me a loaner. One day later noticed that all of the engine oil was on my garage floor. Called the dealership and told them what happened and they sent a wrecker to pick up the car and provided another loaner. Turns out when they replaced the valve cover, they installed a new seal and the seal was defective out of the package. They replaced the seal and performed a complete oil change (all covered again).

So here I am a couple of weeks later and I started getting a Low Oil Pressure warning light, but only when I make left hand turns. Called the dealership, they say it's not related and tell me that it isn't possible that it only happens with left hand turns. Told me to check the oil - it was full. Had the SES light pop the other day, put the code reader on it and it was P0324 and P0325 - knock sensor and knock sensor malfunction. Codes cleared by the next morning. Still getting the oil pressure warning light.

Son takes the car today to go pick up his dad and the oil pressure warning light was on for the entire drive (15 minutes or so). By the time he gets home, the light is still on and the SES light has come back on: P0324 - knock sensor malfunction, P0325 knock sensor bank 1 and P0300 - random - multiple misfires detected.

Talked to the dealership again, they say it's not related to the work they did (but I didn't have any of these issues until they worked on it) and since it is probably an oil sensor, that is not covered under the powertrain warranty. Says it's safe to drive since there is oil in it and they will talk to the mechanics and call me tomorrow to schedule a time to bring it in. Hubby looked at the engine and it is leaking from the valve cover seal again (not as severe as before but leaking nonetheless) and the backside of the engine and the alternator are covered in oil.

I need help because I still think that this new issue is related to the work that was done on it previously and I know that the dealership is going to try to give me issues about it (it doesn't help that I'm a woman and they never listen to me though I've been working on cars with my dad for years - not an expert by any means but I know the difference between an oil filter and a cantaloupe:smile. Anybody have any experience with something like this? Any tips or tricks so I don't have to show my butt to someone over there at the dealership?

Thanks in advance for the help! :smile:

 

[Rivergoer]

So you haven’t taken it back yet and the’re already telling you over the phone the current situation is not related to the prior repair, without even looking at it yet? Ugh.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here, hopefully you can get some good insight soon.

For warranty purposes, it might be helpful to know how many miles on the odometer.

 

[75laney78]

Sorry, I noticed that after i posted. It's at 49,000 miles. Past regular warranty but still in powertrain warranty.

 

[jblackburn]

Kinda sounds to me like a ground cable isn't attached securely for random codes to come and go. Car runs/sounds normal besides the codes?

 

[ChevyGuy]

First off, the oil life warning is basically just a timer. If it wasn't reset at the last oil change, that explains that. It's NOT based on any sensor.

I'd never consider an oil pressure warning false without an additional gauge connected to confirm good pressure. A couple of possibilities are the wrong oil or added, or perhaps something was left in the valve cover that's plugging the oil return, so the oil ends up in the cover instead of where it should be. That might explain the leak as well.

P0324 - excessive engine knock is present for more than 10 seconds. Although other parts of the manual suggest a lose sensor could cause that as well.

P0325 - ECM detects the sensor signal is open for more than 5 seconds.

The knock sensor seems to be mounded near the alternator. It's on the outside of the engine. Seem easy to get to. I don't know how it would be related unless a dropped tool damaged wiring.

 

[75laney78]

Alright, talked to a service guy at another GM dealership for advice. He suggested talking to the service manager target than the service writer. Low and behold, their manger is a woman!!! So nice to not have my concerns discounted. She remembered my situation because I was the vehicle that caused them to look at all of their valve covet seals (turns out they got a bad batch from GM). She immediately sent their wrecker (good thing since i refused to drive it and when they fired it up to load it, it started smoking everywhere - from under the hood, tailpipe etc). She arranged a loaner and now I'm just waiting to see what happens.

My theory -

Oil Pressure sensor - it's located right next to the oil filter. When they did the oil change after the seal replacement, I think it got moved causing a bad connection that was exacerbated during left turns, we shall see.

Knock sensor- located next to the alternator. Since the alternator is covered in oil due to a new leak, I'm thinking it could be possible that the sensor is also covered in oil causing some sort of malfunction.

Smoking - it has a definite oil leak and its probably got oil in all sorts of places it shouldn't.

Time will tell.

 

[a2chris]

Your squeak/whistle might have been a missing PCV nipple in the intake. If they did not replace the intake, it could still be an issue.

 

[a2chris]

First off, the oil life warning is basically just a timer. If it wasn't reset at the last oil change, that explains that. It's NOT based on any sensor.

It is based on one sensor that I know of - the engine temperature sensor. If the engine overheats past a certain amount, it will trip the oil life warning.

 

[1988gmc355]

It is based on one sensor that I know of - the engine temperature sensor. If the engine overheats past a certain amount, it will trip the oil life warning.

Also inlet air temp, outside air temp, oil temp, water temp, run times, avg speed. It is a complex algorithm that many like to discount with no facts.

 

[ChevyGuy]

Also inlet air temp, outside air temp, oil temp, water temp, run times, avg speed. It is a complex algorithm that many like to discount with no facts.

You might want to read this post, which is a copy of this document.

 

[1988gmc355]

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/oilmon.html

You might want to read this post, which is a copy of this document.

I tagged you in a thread with 3 different documents someone posted, you cannot deny what GM has developed, So that document proves it is more than a time and takes into account different sensor readings, I think it is a disservice to members here when it comes to OLM for their cars and what to do. I know it does not monitor oil quality, I don't even look at mine and only reset to avoid the notification. That is due to my choice to run Amsoil SS oil with yearly oil samples taken and sent off.

 

[Blasirl]

Just to reiterate what jblackburn said, have the dealer also perform negative battery cable recall service

 

[ChevyGuy]

CTS-CTS-V FAQ: How do I reset the Engine Oil Life Monitor and how does it work

I tagged you in a thread with 3 different documents someone posted, you cannot deny what GM has developed, So that document proves it is more than a time and takes into account different sensor readings,

Yeaaaaah. That will convince me of the errors of my ways - posting outdated and/or highly generic documents while ignoring the more recent one I posted. Just because GM developed back then doesn't mean they still use it.

Reading between the lines, it looks like GM has three count-down timers: Engine revolutions, Mileage and Calendar time. It then displays the result of the "lowest" counter.

I hadn't previously noticed the "zeroing out" if the engine overheats. It makes me wonder if there isn't a similar function for no oil pressure.

I know it does not monitor oil quality,

BINGO! That's my whole point! The car does not sense the quality of the oil flowing through it - only what the engine experienced since the last reset (which may or may not coincide with the last actual oil change.) As your own actions testify, the indicator doesn't really indicate the condition of the oil. Forgive me if my explanation is a bit oversimplified.

I mean, if we really want to get into it, mileage itself comes from a sensor, so clearly, it's sensor based. :uhh:

 

[1988gmc355]

Yeaaaaah. That will convince me of the errors of my ways - posting outdated and/or highly generic documents while ignoring the more recent one I posted. Just because GM developed back then doesn't mean they still use it.

Reading between the lines, it looks like GM has three count-down timers: Engine revolutions, Mileage and Calendar time. It then displays the result of the "lowest" counter.

I hadn't previously noticed the "zeroing out" if the engine overheats. It makes me wonder if there isn't a similar function for no oil pressure.



BINGO! That's my whole point! The car does not sense the quality of the oil flowing through it - only what the engine experienced since the last reset (which may or may not coincide with the last actual oil change.) As your own actions testify, the indicator doesn't really indicate the condition of the oil. Forgive me if my explanation is a bit oversimplified.

I mean, if we really want to get into it, mileage itself comes from a sensor, so clearly, it's sensor based. :uhh:

The article you posted states that it takes into account oil temp, so that right there proves that your 3 counters are not the only factor. It is not outdated because it states like so many other articles about OLM and what is taken into account. It was never meant to monitor quality, but it is wrong to say it only has counters, they haven't been working on counters that count 3 things since the 80's. Why are you fighting this so hard? How do you manage when you change your oil?

 

[ChevyGuy]

The article you posted states that it takes into account oil temp, so that right there proves that your 3 counters are not the only factor.

Actually, it says coolant temp. If the coolant temp gets out of range, that will affect the oil temp, which affects the speed of the OLM's counter.

Why are you fighting this so hard?

I'm trying to figure out the same. We agree on one point - there is no sensor that detects the condition of the oil. None, nada, zip.

The OLM is governed by counters - yes, the sensors control the speed of those counters, but again, it is no reflection on the properties of the oil flowing though the engine at that moment. In fact, it's completely possible to have the light come on 100 miles after a oil change if the folks that did the last oil change forgot to reset it. Why? Because it's based on timers, counters, etc - not on the sensed properties of the oil.

In trying to explain to someone why the light came on, I don't think it's that far off to say it's not based on sensors, but counters. If they want to go deeper, sure, explain how the counters work. But part of teaching is to know when to simplify and when to go deep. Can you subtract 8 apples from 5 apples - yes, if you've been taught about negative numbers (or IOUs). But until then, the answer is "no, you can't do that". That's not lying, that's keeping the subject within the level of understanding of the person you're talking to.

As for the OP, there's other things to consider. The OLM may be a coincidence. If it turns out the engine has been running on low oil pressure, an oil change wouldn't be a bad idea.

How do you manage when you change your oil?

I start getting things together when I get down around 20% and really try to change at around 10%. It's a lot less work then my old method of every 3 months.

 

[Allport]

Remove the hose from top of I take manifold and check for rubber nipple. Clean if you have to. If missing you have 2 options. Replace when intake manifold or do what I did. Remove the hose a d salvage both end of it. Replace with a 5/8 hose. Cut the hose and install a check valve that allows sure to flow to manifold.

Also putting all the pressure on crankcase with blow seals out as well as it could affect oil pressure readings as well. Start there and see what happens. That's a 20min $20 fix.

 

[75laney78]

Alright, sorry for the delay but here's what ultimately happened . . .

I was waiting for a call back from the service writer which I never received so I called and asked to speak to the service manager. Lo and behold, it was a woman (thank God for small favors). She's listened to my story and actually remembered my car because of the issue with the valve cover seal. They had to pull all of the seals they had in stock because they got a bad batch from GM. She immediately sent out their wrecker and had him bring me with back to the dealership with the car. Good thing too because the minute he started the car to put it on the flatbed there was smoke rolling out of the engine and the exhaust (burning oil).

I got a loaner and got a call later that day from the writer. He told me the turbo was bad and it built up pressure in the engine and that was causing the oil leak and all the other issues. He had to order parts and didn't know exactly when it would be repaired but said EVERYTHING was covered under warranty. Never got a call so I called him on Tuesday and he said it's done and the mechanic is out driving it but there is one part that wasn't covered that you'll need to pay for. Needless to say, I wasn't very happy about that.

Go in the following morning to pick it up, the bill is $177 for an ignition coil that needed to be replaced because the boots were stuck in the cylinder head. It's a wear item so therefore not covered under warranty. I'm having an issue financially right now and can't afford that so he says just take the loaner and well figure it out. Plus, I notice that my car is on the rack (thought it was fixed).

Get a call from him this morning that my car is ready for pick up and I told him I wad still getting together the money for the bill. He says don't worry about it, we took care of it. Pick up the car and read through the repair invoice:

Oil seals in the turbo failed causing oil loss through turbo. Due to lack of oil and oil pressure, turbo came apart internally filling oil system with metal. After replacing turbo, on test drive engine locked up due to the amount of metal in oil passages. REPLACED ENGINE and transferred all parts to new engine.

Un freaking believable!!!! So glad this was covered under the power train warranty. I would have been without a car which is the last thing I need right now. Pays to be persistent! Thanks for everyone's advice and words of encouragement!