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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help! Yesterday my 2014 Cruze Diesel lost the tachometer, speedometer, directional s, with the engine running. The center display is reporting more errors on basically every system from the air bag, to side detection monitoring.
I'm a long distance commuter (over 200 miles each day) so my cruise has approximately 96,000 miles on it. I love the diesel but this car's electronics make me question the vehicle's long term reliability. I didn't see any blown fuse, so looking for suggestions since the vehicle is out of warranty :angry: I understand that no company can warranty a vehicle forever and stay in business, but a 3 year old vehicle regardless of mileage should not have electrical issues like this.

My last commuter vehicle (different brand) went 300,000 miles with no major issues before I gave it to my daughter who is still driving it. Very disappointed that everything is out of warranty because I drive the vehicle long distances. Sorry for the rant, but any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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What happens when you disconnect the battery cable and reconnect it? This could be a spurious error or you could have a failed component. Also, how is the car driving? You could be looking at an electrical issue, a fried BCM, a fried cluster computer/board, or a wiring harness failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
obermd,

The vehicle engine continued to run fine with no issue. It's all electrical issues, but I have not disconnected the battery to reset the computer yet. The problem started on my commute home last night, so it was dark when I got home. I brought a different vehicle to work today and will try disconnecting the battery tonight. Also, I didn't mention that the directionals and Radio/Nav system don't work. Though the radio randomly came back on during the drive.
Thanks for the reply!
 

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I would recommend doing what obermd suggests. But when you disconnect the battery, disconnect both cables (+ and -) and hold them together for about 30 seconds. Then reconnect the battery. This drains all the capacitors and "resets" all the electronics in the car.

I had kind of a similar issue with my Silverado where the gauges on the cluster were going all wacky (fuel level was shown incorrectly, heater/AC was blowing hot on driver side and cold on passenger side, etc.). I disconnected the battery cables, touched them together, and reconnected them and "tah dah" it was all fixed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Highmarker! I'll give it a shot when I get home tonight. My fuel gauge, temperature, tach, and speedo are all not functioning, so it can't hurt to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, no joy removing the battery cables so I dropped the car off at the dealer this afternoon. Three hours of dealer troubleshooting and they still can't identify the problem. Unbelievable, so now I'm driving a Hertz Chevy Spark while the cost of finding a solution to my problem goes through the roof! Again, unbelievable for a 2014 car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Tomko and it's worth checking out, though I haven't had any issues starting or driving the vehicle. The electronic cluster (gauges) is the main item not working, along with the radio/nav system. It might be attributed to a low amperage issue, though I would expect the car not to start under those conditions. Apparently, I'm the first person with this issue, but thank all of you for the recommended items to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Diesel, No the negative battery cable has not been replaced. The dealership said the negative battery cable and the battery itself are good. I asked them to check the Negative Lead first due to the Spec Coverage referred to above. They suspect the problem is with the BCM though that was 2 hours ago and I still have not received a call. On a positive note, the service manager said they would limit the t/s labor to 2 hours.
 

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Diesel, No the negative battery cable has not been replaced. The dealership said the negative battery cable and the battery itself are good. I asked them to check the Negative Lead first due to the Spec Coverage referred to above. They suspect the problem is with the BCM though that was 2 hours ago and I still have not received a call. On a positive note, the service manager said they would limit the t/s labor to 2 hours.
I don't understand why they are not replacing it Your symptoms appear to be right in line with what the spec coverage states. If I were you I would ask them to replace that since it's covered. Good luck.
 

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Does this thing have a DIC like the gas Cruzes do that shows the system voltage? Should read a steady approximately 14.7 volts, but goes down to 13.7 volts when hot or even past 15.0 volts when cold.

Mine sure started to jump all over the place, on mine with the blower motor on full was measuring 2.1 volts between the negative battery terminal, not the clamp on it to the engine block. Problem with mine was Chevy never dipped the end of that bare copper wire that is crimped inside the negative battery clamp.

Ha, my first digital voltmeter cost $3,500.00, can buy a half way decent one today for ten bucks about the same cost to make a cell phone, but expect to be screwed blue when you buy a phone.

I soldered that cable to that battery clamp, installed it, did the same test, but now it was only dropping 0.014 volts, this gave the electrical system an extra 2 volts to function properly. But still was getting more jumping around on the DIC display.

So checked the positive side as well, get a 0.3 to 0.5 volt drop, isolated this to an ignition relay in the underhood fuse/relay box. Actually an ignition switch is a stupid name, diesels do not have an ignition system, in aircraft, more intelligent people, call this a master switch.

Whatever, its the switch that provides all the power to all the electrical and electronic devices in your vehicle. It use to be a real power type switch, but in the Cruze, just a tiny little thing that fires up the BCM that closes a relay contact in that fuse/relay box with point contacts, stupid, a real ignition power switch used a self cleaning sliding contact switch, more problems that were never problems before.

Had to cut that relay open, sure doesn't help to read, Made In China, China makes crap, just a bit of carbon arcing debris on the contacts creating more resistance causing all this grief. Cleaned that off and was good again, but did replace it with a Panasonic relay. Some of finest relays were made here in the good ole USA, put that in your history book, those basterds in Washington working for Asians did this to us.

Not saying these are your problems, but using the voltage drop method works, a fully charged battery at 75*F should read 12,9 volts, if left disconnected for a couple of days, due to a self discharge would drop down to 12.1 volts, all this stuff is basic for a person trained in electronics and electrical.

Reason why your dealers can't find simple basic problems like this, have zero electronic training, but yet have the nerve to call themselves experts. Don't even know the difference between a resistor or a door knob.

Paying someone 125 bucks an hour that doesn't know sh!t is a major problem, Made in China is another one. Replacing sliding contacts with point contacts is another problem.

Like prochoice is politically correct word for murdering an unborn child, maintenance free is an advertising word for throwaway.
 

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Had to cut that relay open, sure doesn't help to read, Made In China, China makes crap, just a bit of carbon arcing debris on the contacts creating more resistance causing all this grief. Cleaned that off and was good again, but did replace it with a Panasonic relay. Some of finest relays were made here in the good ole USA, put that in your history book, those basterds in Washington
Had the same issues with the relays controlling xfer case servo for 4WD on my F350 when vehicle was 2 yrs new. One pays $50K for a "Super Duty" vehicle which can be disabled in snow by a cheap $7.50 relay. The stealers wanted $65 for the relays. The first and second replacements did not work right out of the box!! Can you say made in China!! Third time the charm as it's said. Year later same issue all over again, this time around got a substitute replacement from Newark Elec for $7.50 (single quantity) and no further problems since, going on 7 years now.

Blame our self for those bastards in Washington and Springfield , get out and vote this time around!! :angry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Diesel,

So the Chevy dealer after 1.5 days of troubleshooting, replaced the Negative Battery cable as I suggested they check when I dropped it off. Their troubleshooting also indicated that the airbag sensor in the passenger seat was bad and needs to be replaced (not a problem when it went in). They order the replacement part and sent me on my way (17 March) with the airbag light on. Halfway home I stop at a store and shut the vehicle off. When the vehicle restarted, the airbag service light magically went out and all seemed fine. Today (28 March) I start the car for work and the Radio/Nav Display is dead. So i quickly check the display fuse and find it is blown. As soon as I plug in a new fuse it blows! No clue what is shorted and causing the fuse to immediately blow.

I'm hating this car more by the minute. I spent extra money for the Cruze diesel expecting it to last for at least 5 years of long distance commuting. The motor may make it, but the electronic problems are horrible!
Voltage in the DIC this morning ranged from 13.9 to 14.7 volts
Any suggestions? I'm very disappointed in this Chevy!:angry:
 

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Diesel,

So the Chevy dealer after 1.5 days of troubleshooting, replaced the Negative Battery cable as I suggested they check when I dropped it off. Their troubleshooting also indicated that the airbag sensor in the passenger seat was bad and needs to be replaced (not a problem when it went in). They order the replacement part and sent me on my way (17 March) with the airbag light on. Halfway home I stop at a store and shut the vehicle off. When the vehicle restarted, the airbag service light magically went out and all seemed fine. Today (28 March) I start the car for work and the Radio/Nav Display is dead. So i quickly check the display fuse and find it is blown. As soon as I plug in a new fuse it blows! No clue what is shorted and causing the fuse to immediately blow.

I'm hating this car more by the minute. I spent extra money for the Cruze diesel expecting it to last for at least 5 years of long distance commuting. The motor may make it, but the electronic problems are horrible!
Voltage in the DIC this morning ranged from 13.9 to 14.7 volts
Any suggestions? I'm very disappointed in this Chevy!:angry:
Man that sucks! I found a thread on a similar topic, but it doesn't have a follow up as to the definitive solution. Either way, a reprogram or a new head unit seem to be in order. I am not 100% clear on if the batter cable caused it though. I never had any MyLink issues after I had my battery cable replaced. Hopefully it's only ONE more trip to the dealer to get your car sorted once and for all! Please keep us posted.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...r-having-negative-battery-cable-replaced.html
 

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NH_Diesel, the Cruze uses a variable output alternator so your voltage fluctuations are normal and in range. Kind of weird when you first see it though.
 

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I start the car for work and the Radio/Nav Display is dead. So i quickly check the display fuse and find it is blown. As soon as I plug in a new fuse it blows! No clue what is shorted and causing the fuse to immediately blow.
I think you're the first person here to report such a problem. This one should be interesting. Either the display unit has really managed to blow itself up, or you have a pinched cable in the dashboard.
 
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if a fuse is blowing all the time that is a good thing. You should be able to find the short fairly easily. Will need to look at the wiring schematic and see what is on that circuit. If it blows with the radio plugged in and does not with the radio not plugged in then it's the radio.
 
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