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2014 Cruze TD
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@Bvogt

Man you've already been such a big help. I think some of us will end up needing to just buy the o rings for these once the parts are no longer available.

Would you be willing to pop both o-rings off and measure the inside and outside diameter of each one and a couple pictures so we know what size to buy?

I'm also looking through service data and it says to renew the seals on the oil cooler after removing it, so they must be either a common size or can be bought from GM.
 

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I also found this set # 323256532732 This looks very close.VAUXHALL OPEL INSIGNIA ASTRA J 2.0 CDTI OIL FILTER BASE COOLER HOUSING GASKETS | eBay

In the part# reference we do see the part #55578737 for the complete US set that has the unit+seals -

But the cost to import is about the same as buying the complete unit in the US.

But in the future for people who need to buy just the seals if the US part # is not available this may be a good option.
 

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14 Diesel Cruze, ‘14 volt, ‘72 442
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I bought the Astra J set for like $16 shipped (as long as I don't get hit with any weird charges). I'll report back in a month or two when I get it installed if they worked.
Hey, just saw. Yes, I can pull them out tomorrow and put the dial caliper on them for ya and take some pics too
 

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OK I'm starting to panic a little as I get closer to install time. I bought the AJUSA set 77001000 (GM# 55485373). I'm not sure if they are going to work on these cars because it looks slightly different. According to the eBay post it fits in this engine :

Engine Code:A20DTROpelCascada2013Diesel Convertible2.0 CDTIFWD -- W131956cc 143KW 194HP A 20 DTR

Is this the same as we have in the CTD 2.0? The engine looks the same.

What concerns me is that the seals that BVOGT showed us and what you see in the video are thicker, where this AJUSA set is narrow, but there are 2 bulges on the seal to hold it in place, about the same thickness of the seals we see on the US car. Say compared to Dr. Moter DRM0497S. I do see the above engine listed on both compatibility list of the Dr Motor (thicker) and the AJUSA (thinner), so maybe it is compatible?

Rectangle Rim Font Auto part Circle
Vision care Font Circle Electric blue Auto part
 

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I replaced my oil cooler assembly today. The leak took a substatial turn for the worse around 3 months ago and starting dripping onto the ground. Past year it was just making the area below it wet, but it got so bad everything under the car started to get covered. Car has 205k. Job took around 6 hours, including multiple breaks and a lot of time just spending evaluating how to do it without breaking anything. After removing the oil filter cap, I was able to pull it out behind the engine. I did that so I didn't have to remove alternator or DEF injection nozzle. I did have the oil cooler outflow pipe (T shaped one) removed as well since I also replaced that (did the inlet pipe back in January). Having that out of the way helped a bit.

Torque specs:
Oil Pressure Sensor - 26ftlbs
3 bolts oil cooler assembly to block - 37ftlbs

I ended up buying the whole oil cooler assembly brand new (part# 55578737). The seals on the new assembly are the skinny ones just like the ones that I bought in a 2 pack from eBay (mentioned above), and not the thicker style ones that come from the car when new. They may have changed the seals to a different design to fix some of the leaking issues, or maybe the seal compress and stay that shape after many years of use and they are in fact the same? I don't know.

So yes, if you have the oil cooler leak and want to change just the 2 seals on the oil side, you can buy AJUSA set 77001000 (GM# 55485373) from eBay or online and they will work and get out of it with just some labor and cheap seals.

These are the same style seals below #77001000 that came on the cooler brand new.

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So just a quick update. Oil leak looks like it has been significantly reduced.

I'm still seeing a little wetness that looks like it's coming from behind the crank pully. Any idea what could be leaking right there?
 
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