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You'd be hard pressed to tell if it was bad or not by looking at it. It almost looks like corrosion on those pins. Try to GENTLY get in and clean them with a small brass bristle brush and see if that fixes your problem
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You'd be hard pressed to tell if it was bad or not by looking at it. It almost looks like corrosion on those pins. Try to GENTLY get in and clean them with a small brass bristle brush and see if that fixes your problem
yea, I cleaned up the pins with some alcohol and a q tip carefully. as much as I could anyways. it did not have a noticeable effect.

I want to keep checking the wires, but I don't have a wiring diagram or info that tells me which pins are for what, specifically for the ECM and the ignition coil connector (7 pins)
 

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Ever figure out the issue? My 2013 Chevy Cruze had the coil pack burn out left me stranded. I got it towed to my house and I installed a new coil pack and fuse 9 in the engine compartment as it blew out as well. After doing so the car seemed to run fine no engine light. The next day... my car is throwing a p0351 Ignition coil A Primary/Secondary circuit malfunction. Not sure what the issue is now.

I also have to mention that my coolant spewed out from the shitty coolant air bleeder hose, that connects to the coolant reservoir, onto the connectors for the ecm. I notice my pins have the same corrosion as [email protected] patomartinez10
 

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Discussion Starter #26
**** hopefully it isn't the connectors 🙏🏼 believe it or not I'm still trying to fix it! but now I have "confirmed issues" from the dealer. they said they didn't see a short wire, but they know it is related to the connectors and ecm. they would like to replace the ECM and wiring harness for $3G's!!! crazy.

I went to a junkyard and managed to get the connector. I'm going to cut out the damaged wires and use a crimp connector and reinstall the connector. should this fix my misfire, I will not get an ecm. if not, I'll buy the ECM get it programmed and then install.
 

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@patomartinez10 - what's the latest? My 2013 continues to throw P0301 and P0351 and occasionally some other codes, but they never stick. I've replaced the ignition coil, spark plugs, valve cover gasket, confirmed correct load and audible "click" on all injectors, confirmed the purge valve is good... guess I'll start looking at the ECM and cable connectors/pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
disconnect the ECM connectors and check if there is any corrosion, rust, damage on either the ECM pins or the harness connectors. mine had liquid damage on the connectors and pins unfortunately.

the dealer recommended me to install a brand new wiring harness and ecm for a whopping $3000. lol

so I just cut like 4 wires that were damaged and heat crimped them with new ones. I only have a p0301 misfire now.

my next step is now just finding someone or a shop that can flash an ecm for me. so a new/used flashed ecm should get rid of the misfire.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
it just means to have your ecm reprogrammed to the Vin of your car. if you just put on any ecm, you risk damaging electrical things and car not being able to start/run
 

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Discussion Starter #31
my car no longer has the misfire. and it was not because of the ecm. i mean there was liquid damage to some wires and ecm pins, but with some wire changes and pin cleaning, the ecm was not the issue.

the **** ignition coils were DEFECTIVE. this is so irritating. worse thing is that a mechanic that I thought was trustworthy is claiming he fixed the ecm, but I still have the same **** ecm. it is not switched or reflashed. what's more frustrating is that chevy did a diagnostic, but they claimed it was bad ecm and wires. idk if they tried to scam me, or it was negligence, but i'm hella mad, at chevy for negligence/scamming me, my mechanic for also scamming/being dishonest, and amazon giving me a defective ignition coil pack.

now i must deal with a P0420 code, but i think I'm just going to get both O2 sensors and replace em, for preventative maintenance anyways at least. if that doesn't get rid of the code, then it is the catalytic converter. if so, GG.
 

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I bought an ignition coil from rock auto that arrived defective and had a mechanic friend say that it’s not an unusual occurrence. Very frustrating. And the rampant dishonesty is the worst. Glad you’re slowing chipping away of the easy and still beneficial fixes...
 

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Bought a starter solenoid for a boat engine from a Mercury dealer. It arrived defective (coil would switch but wouldn't make contact internally). Brought it back the next day expecting for them to warranty it and all they said was "No returns on electrical parts". Like WTF MF I'm not returning it! It's defective from the factory! Warranty it and get me a new one! They refused and just kept saying no returns on electrical parts. finally just said **** it and left. Almost tossed it through their giant pane glass window when I left
 

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Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028,

Set gap with the black portion of this tool.

Measure the gap with feeler gauges.

284857

Throw this away.

284858


Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.
 
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