Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

2014 Cruze LS shuddering/dying after start w/o check engine light.

1934 2
Greetings, and first let me say I appreciate any thought/suggestions someone may have to help with this. Let me say secondly that I have little to no experience with car mechanics, so please be patient with my ignorance. I'll try provide all the detail I can about what is going on.

My Cruze has appx 48,000 miles on it, has been meticulously maintained by the dealership and all recommended maintenance completed on time. It has recently (in the past six months) started having intermittent problems when I first turn the vehicle on. It starts normally, but as soon as I shift into reverse or drive with my foot on the brake, the engine idles very roughly. This seems to be worse when the air conditioning is on, but does not ONLY happen when the AC is on. If I proceed to drive off while this is happening, usually it will continue to rough idle when stopped or at low speeds, and if I hit the gas pedal it will lurch forward rather than slowly accelerate. This happens on a regular and increasing basis over the past six months, but it does not happen every time I drive the vehicle. Appx 10 times since this has begun, the engine dies. All electronics remain on and it's as if I put the key in the accessory position rather than turned the vehicle on. No check engine codes are generated, and the car starts right back up. The stalling engine generally happens within the first 30-45 seconds of starting the vehicle if it's going to happen.

Someone who has much more knowledge about engines suggested that it might be the canister purge valve because that seemed (to him) to be clicking loudly, so I purchased the replacement from the dealership directly and replaced it. There was no improvement. While he was looking at the engine trying to figure out what might be wrong, the engine did shudder pretty hard (visibly). The vehicle never experiences problems while traveling at higher speeds, it is only when first pulling out after being parked. The amount of time it's been parked doesn't seem to matter, nor does the outside temperature, where I get fuel, or what grade of fuel I get.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this could be, things to try, or ways to help diagnose this before I start paying the dealer $80/hr to attempt to diagnose the problem? Granted, if covered by the 100k mile power trail the diagnostic fees will be omitted, but if not I'm sure I'm looking at a hefty bill.

I've searched the forums and various resources online and the only thing I can find that sounds similar is a post regarding:

Service Bulletin: PI0928 (NHTSA ID 10052020)
"Some customers may comment on a bump feeling, surge, or engine vibration, while stopped at idle with the transmission in drive, and the foot on the brake. This condition may be caused by the transmission neutral idle feature. When this concern occurs, move the transmission shift lever to the manual position. Moving the transmission shift lever to the manual position will prevent the neutral idle feature from functioning. If the concern is eliminated by moving the transmission shift lever to the manual position, it is caused by the neutral idle feature, in variation in the one featured for the clutch fiber plate. The 1-2-3-4 clutch fiber plate should be replaced with the part number listed below. Here is a kit which contains two clutch fiber plates."
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

· Premium Member
7,542 Posts
Service Bulletin: PI0928 (NHTSA ID 10052020) "... When this concern occurs, move the transmission shift lever to the manual position. ... If the concern is eliminated by moving the transmission shift lever to the manual position,...."
That sounds like good advice. What it's saying is when the problem happens, move the shift level to the left. That puts it into manual mode. If you leave it there, you'll have to move the lever forward to upshift. (or you can move it back to the right to go back into automatic mode.) But if the problem goes away in manual mode, then it's time to take it to the dealer and report what you've discovered. I'm sure it's covered by the power train warranty (5 year/100,000 mile).

· Super Moderator
7,369 Posts
Please bring your car to a qualified dealer. The thought of being handed an unexpected repair bill terrifies most of us. But as you can see, you’ve already paid to change one part needlessly.

While the dealer may be expensive it can often be less costly than pursuing repair through other means.
  • Like
Reactions: Rivergoer
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.