Assuming all that work was done properly, the likely issue is the radiator fan. It should operate with 3 speeds, sounds like it is only working in high speed.
2014 Cruze LT overheating
Problem, 2014 Chevy Cruze LT with 1.4L turbocharged engine overheats with no explanation. Will not overheat when sitting at idle but will overheat under load conditions like pulling an incline. First message is that AC has been turned off due to engine overheat condition. If temperature continues to climb the second dashboard message is Engine overheat, Engine in idle mode. At this point the temperature gauge may suddenly drop back to the normal range. When sitting idling the fan will cycle on and off briefly and temperature gauge does not move. I was told by one individual that if the AC is on the fan should always be on, but this is not the case. Turning the AC on does not cause the fan to kick on.
What has been done:
Replaced Thermostat
Flushed radiator.
Replaced both the upper and lower Coolant Temperature Sensors
Replaced Coolant Expansion tank and cap.
Replaced Water pump.
Replaced hose from coolant expansion tank to heater core to water pump.
Replaced turbo charger.
Replaced valve cover with PCV valve.
Had a shop test the compression and do a chemical test to rule out the Head gasket. They found no issues.
Beyond frustrated at this point. HELP!
What has been done:
Replaced Thermostat
Flushed radiator.
Replaced both the upper and lower Coolant Temperature Sensors
Replaced Coolant Expansion tank and cap.
Replaced Water pump.
Replaced hose from coolant expansion tank to heater core to water pump.
Replaced turbo charger.
Replaced valve cover with PCV valve.
Had a shop test the compression and do a chemical test to rule out the Head gasket. They found no issues.
Beyond frustrated at this point. HELP!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Would you get the fan or start with the relay
There are 3 relays that control the fan. The most common failure is the resistor pack on the fan. If this is the case, you will need a new fan assembly.
You can buy a new resistor pack from Ebay if the fan itself is OK.
You should pop the top off the fan connector on the backside of the radiator. Then there are 4 terminals.. one if the ground. Take a fat wire and connect to the battery positive terminal and touch each of the terminals.. I think the one on the right is the ground so that will just make a big spark. The other three terminals should run the fan at low/med/high speed.
Then you will know if the fan works or not.
If the fan works I'd guess the radiator is plugged.
You should pop the top off the fan connector on the backside of the radiator. Then there are 4 terminals.. one if the ground. Take a fat wire and connect to the battery positive terminal and touch each of the terminals.. I think the one on the right is the ground so that will just make a big spark. The other three terminals should run the fan at low/med/high speed.
Then you will know if the fan works or not.
If the fan works I'd guess the radiator is plugged.
Pressure test coolant system then bleed properly. Large air pockets possible. Is coolant resevoir level constant or do you have to top it off frequently? Any loss of coolant system pressure will cause large temp swings. 219F is target center temp with range of 212-235.
ACdelco/gm parts used? Especially thermostat and sensors. Gold pin sensor for engine, tin pin sensor for radiator. Aftermarket tstats do not work in this engine.
imho... for your engine to get to limp mode through 2 temp warnings you have coolant level issues and or system is not getting pressurized and or failed inoperative tstat. Also no mixing of coolant types. Dexcool (orange) is specified and 50/50 mix bottles are easy insurance of proper ratio.
ACdelco/gm parts used? Especially thermostat and sensors. Gold pin sensor for engine, tin pin sensor for radiator. Aftermarket tstats do not work in this engine.
imho... for your engine to get to limp mode through 2 temp warnings you have coolant level issues and or system is not getting pressurized and or failed inoperative tstat. Also no mixing of coolant types. Dexcool (orange) is specified and 50/50 mix bottles are easy insurance of proper ratio.
Thanks for the input everyone. Update on the project. I bought a Fan Assembly from Autozone that they said would fit. It did not. It was 3/4" too wide and would not lock into the retainer slots on the radiator. I have since learned that there is a 1st Design and 2nd design of the radiator. 1st Design has transmission cooler lines on the drive side and uses the Dorman fan assembly part sold by AutoZone and Advance auto. 2nd design has transmission cooler lines on the passenger side. O'Reilly lists both types in their database. I Have a 2nd Design coming from O'Reilly. O'Reilly is new in my area of VA, but they may become my new go to parts house. Neither AutoZone nor Advance could get the 2nd design fan assembly.
@12ecofamily car - I have bled the coolant system at the plug on the upper passenger side of the radiator every time I've had to refill it. The coolant resevoir level remains constant until an overheat occurs and then I loose coolant out of the pressure cap. I'm wondering now about the temp sensors. One of the ones I replaced looked tin when taken out and I just though it was discolored. the new one put in was the gold color. When you refer to those as Engine and Radiator is Engine the upper and radiator the lower? I kept the old tin sensor and I'm wondering if I should put it back in.
@12ecofamily car - I have bled the coolant system at the plug on the upper passenger side of the radiator every time I've had to refill it. The coolant resevoir level remains constant until an overheat occurs and then I loose coolant out of the pressure cap. I'm wondering now about the temp sensors. One of the ones I replaced looked tin when taken out and I just though it was discolored. the new one put in was the gold color. When you refer to those as Engine and Radiator is Engine the upper and radiator the lower? I kept the old tin sensor and I'm wondering if I should put it back in.
Hi yes ect, engine coolant temp sensor is part of the coolant outlet, driver side and is upper. Gold electrical pins. Rct, radiator coolant temp sensor is in radiator or on lower rad hose depending on gen 1 year. Tin electrical pins.
Same here. I took one of the 4 old thermostats that went bad in past 8 months i had laying around and drilled holes in it. Then installed it. l also replaced temp sensor at block. Runs cool now. Maybe too cool but it beats running hot all the time.Problem, 2014 Chevy Cruze LT with 1.4L turbocharged engine overheats with no explanation. Will not overheat when sitting at idle but will overheat under load conditions like pulling an incline. First message is that AC has been turned off due to engine overheat condition. If temperature continues to climb the second dashboard message is Engine overheat, Engine in idle mode. At this point the temperature gauge may suddenly drop back to the normal range. When sitting idling the fan will cycle on and off briefly and temperature gauge does not move. I was told by one individual that if the AC is on the fan should always be on, but this is not the case. Turning the AC on does not cause the fan to kick on.
What has been done:
Replaced Thermostat
Flushed radiator.
Replaced both the upper and lower Coolant Temperature Sensors
Replaced Coolant Expansion tank and cap.
Replaced Water pump.
Replaced hose from coolant expansion tank to heater core to water pump.
Replaced turbo charger.
Replaced valve cover with PCV valve.
Had a shop test the compression and do a chemical test to rule out the Head gasket. They found no issues.
Beyond frustrated at this point. HELP!
Bad thermostat. I have 5 ive replaced. I drilled couple holes in last one and changed temp sensor on the head. Runs cool and never overheatsThanks for the input everyone. Update on the project. I bought a Fan Assembly from Autozone that they said would fit. It did not. It was 3/4" too wide and would not lock into the retainer slots on the radiator. I have since learned that there is a 1st Design and 2nd design of the radiator. 1st Design has transmission cooler lines on the drive side and uses the Dorman fan assembly part sold by AutoZone and Advance auto. 2nd design has transmission cooler lines on the passenger side. O'Reilly lists both types in their database. I Have a 2nd Design coming from O'Reilly. O'Reilly is new in my area of VA, but they may become my new go to parts house. Neither AutoZone nor Advance could get the 2nd design fan assembly.
@12ecofamily car - I have bled the coolant system at the plug on the upper passenger side of the radiator every time I've had to refill it. The coolant resevoir level remains constant until an overheat occurs and then I loose coolant out of the pressure cap. I'm wondering now about the temp sensors. One of the ones I replaced looked tin when taken out and I just though it was discolored. the new one put in was the gold color. When you refer to those as Engine and Radiator is Engine the upper and radiator the lower? I kept the old tin sensor and I'm wondering if I should put it back in.
Update 3/31. After replacing the engine coolant sensors with AC/Delco proper gold and tin sensors the engine was still overheating. Out of frustration and desperation I took off the Thermostat (Autozone Duralast) and drilled one hole in the plate and also broke out the little brass part in the one hole already in the plate. Put it back on and Bingo, no more over heating. It did take the engine about 10 miles to reach normal operating temperature. After that there was some temp fluctuation, but mostly cooler and never enough to trip the warnings. @shaehix75, your fix works. I think I'm going to get OEM thermostat and see how that goes.
Update 4/7. Installed an OEM GM branded thermostat. The mechanical part of the thermostat is clearly different than the Durolast from Auto Zone. However, The engine does overheat with this thermostat. It reaches the "AC disabled" stage, but never reaches the "Idle Mode" or "Limp Mode" stage.
Any other suggestions or should I just put the drilled out Durolast back on and sell the dang thing.
Any other suggestions or should I just put the drilled out Durolast back on and sell the dang thing.
Longshot but is serpentine belt tensioner old? Maybe belt slipping on pump pulley, but prob not.
Are you leaking coolant at all? Doubtful based on what I've seen. My Cruze has had its water pump (replaced under special coverage) and water outlet (replaced at home) replaced and that thin tube that goes into coolant reservoir. It was pretty maddening when it was happening.
Do you have a link for this?You can buy a new resistor pack from Ebay if the fan itself is OK.
This from a google search, there are lots of others on Ebay.Do you have a link for this?
Looks like it plugs in inline. Is that what you did?This from a google search, there are lots of others on Ebay.
AliExpress replacement fan resistor pack
No I haven't done it yet because my fan resistor has not failed.. yet. But no, the resistor pack is meant to be a direct replacement for the original. The problem is the pack is installed from the inside so you can't remove it from the fan housing without pulling the fan.
My plan is though, as the Rpack is basically made from plastic I bet you could hack it out of the hole without removing the fan, then cut the wires and wire the new pack in place and replace with a couple of screws/ductape/bailng wire from the outside.
I.e replace the whole thing without removing the fan housing.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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