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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, new member here. I'm having an issue with my 14 Cruze, and I'm hoping someone could shed some light on what the problem might be. For the past few weeks I have been unable to start my 14 Cruze without first giving it a jump start. It won't turn over at all, only click until I give it the jump start. This happens anytime the car sits for more than a short time, whether it be overnight, or just the time it takes to go into a store. A couple of weeks ago I noticed a large amount of battery acid on the positive lead, so much that you could barely see the lead. I've since cleaned everything, but that made no difference. Even after I start the car I can tell there's a problem. The blinkers don't blink right, sometimes some of the dashboard electronics don't come on at all for a minute or two after the car starts. I've had the battery, alternator, etc. tested and all are fine. SOMETHING has to be wrong. Anybody have any idea what the issue could be? I'm tired of having to jump start my car every time I turn it off. Thanks in advance for any insights!
 

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Sounds like it's time for a new battery. The factory original seems to last about 3 years. That battery acid is a giveaway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tried to buy one today at an auto parts store, but they tested it and said it was just fine and recommended I take the car to the dealership to be looked at.
 

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Unless the car is still under B2B warranty, it will probably cost almost as much for a new battery. I'm not sure what kind of test the auto parts store ran. Only a very expensive machine can definitively test a battery. I doubt if the auto parts store has that machine. And of course, the car probably did start at the parts store - so it was fine at that moment.

There is a issue with the negative battery cable. The quick test there is the next time the car won't start, use a jumper cable to connect the negative battery terminal to the car's ground. If it suddenly starts working, then the battery cable is the problem. (Can't do that with a jump pack, you have to have jumper cables.)

It's hard to tell the difference between battery and cable just by the symptoms.

See this thread for details: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...al-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html
Note that you are covered for a bad battery cable even if you're outside the B2B warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can't speak either on what type of tests they did, or how effective those tests are or are not, other than they had me do numerous things while a machine was connected to the battery, including rev the engine, turn on the AC, turn on the high beams. It was the most in-depth test I've had done on it yet. I had it tested once a week ago or so at another store and the guy just hooked his machine up to the battery, pressed a couple of buttons, and it spat out a piece of paper saying the battery needed charged. Problem there is I've tried to charge it, and it won't take a charge.

I'll check out the negative battery cable info you provided. That may be what it is. At this point I'll take any lead!
 

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I can't speak either on what type of tests they did, or how effective those tests are or are not, other than they had me do numerous things while a machine was connected to the battery, including rev the engine, turn on the AC, turn on the high beams. It was the most in-depth test I've had done on it yet. I had it tested once a week ago or so at another store and the guy just hooked his machine up to the battery, pressed a couple of buttons, and it spat out a piece of paper saying the battery needed charged. Problem there is I've tried to charge it, and it won't take a charge.

I'll check out the negative battery cable info you provided. That may be what it is. At this point I'll take any lead!
You have the classic signs of a compromised battery.

Let me echo the words of my learned colleagues:

Replace battery immediately. If you're still covered by the three/36 bumper-to-bumper then this is done at no charge by your dealership.

If not expect to pay ~$200 for a quality battery. Plus install.

Furthermore, the advice on using a booster cable to jump the ground cable was spot on.

The midtronics battery testing machine that is required dealer equipment is one **** of a unit but way too costly for a shop that doesn't specialize in batteries.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Then I will get a new battery and hope that solves the problem. You guys are far more knowledgeable than I am so I have no doubt you know what your talking about. My car is, however, no longer under the bumper-to-bumper, so it's going to cost me.
 

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I can't speak either on what type of tests they did, or how effective those tests are or are not, other than they had me do numerous things while a machine was connected to the battery, including rev the engine, turn on the AC, turn on the high beams. It was the most in-depth test I've had done on it yet.
That's testing the car to see if the charging system is up to snuff. It doesn't say anything about the battery.


I had it tested once a week ago or so at another store and the guy just hooked his machine up to the battery, pressed a couple of buttons, and it spat out a piece of paper saying the battery needed charged.
A much better test. Clearly some kind of automated device that goes though a series of steps. However, either the device can't charge the battery or the operator didn't want to spend the time charging the battery so it could be put though the other tests. An undercharged could be a bad battery, or it could be a defective charging system.


Problem there is I've tried to charge it, and it won't take a charge.
Annnnnd, there you go. Unable to take/hold a charge is pretty much the definition of a bad battery.
 

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Walmart uses Midtronic testing machines, I would get it tested there, plus they have the least expensive / best warranty batteries availalble
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's exactly what I was going to do. Walmart is about a minute away, whereas my dealer is about 30. I think the EverStart battery they sell will do just fine.

I appreciate all of the great advice from everyone. I will be going in the morning for a new battery and hoping it solves the problem!
 

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Walmart uses Midtronic testing machines, I would get it tested there, plus they have the least expensive / best warranty batteries availalble

I use Midtronics testers at work for use on invertors. We use the Ultra and the Essential models. They measure the Siemens (used to be called mhos = 1/Ω). They can measure just the battery or the battery and a cable. Does anyone know the Siemens of the factory batteries? I assume there are more than one supplier, so that will make a difference as well.

Not sure if any of this will help anyone, just adding to the confusion is all...:2cents:
 
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