Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

2014 Cruze TONS OF PROBLEMS AT ONCE

24771 Views 21 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  rob.lafady
So have a 2014 LS with 37k. Within the past week, the check engine light came on and there has been a 2-3 second delay on both the volume on the radio via steering controls and also a delay in the turn signals both directions. Check engine light is something to do with the exhaust.

I get an oil change last Friday, and noticed the car was harder to start each morning and the steering seemed "off". Fast forward to today, and now the power steering AND stabilitrak light came on and the power steering isnt working.

Any ideas? And of course my bumper to bumper warranty went out 1,500mi ago.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Take it to the dealer. I'm sure at least something is covered under powertrain warranty.
The negative battery cable is a common problem. It certainly could explain check lights, hard starting and power steering issues.

The delay is interesting. I don't remember that reported before. Is anything plugged into a ODBII port? If something is "chatty", it could be blocking things from communicating over the car's bus.
  • Like
Reactions: 5
Nothing plugged into it and I keep the car pretty clean so I doubt its debris. I actually had to jump the car twice today
Check engine light is P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank1))
Generally we steer people this way: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable-2.html

In a car controlled so heavily by computer like the Cruze, bad power will do all kinds of wacky things. Start here and see if it goes away.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Welcome to the forum, sorry to hear about the issues. As mentioned above, start with the easy things like the known issue with negative terminal then go from there.
Systems affected that were listed in the letter I got from Chevrolet are : radio/hvac/abs/traction control/steering/interior lights. Seems you need the battery terminal repair. I's covered for 10 years or 120k miles.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Check engine light is P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank1))
Welcome to the community here, you have came to the right place for help! These are a great group of guys/gals always willing help determine the cause of your issues. The code you mentioned in one of your previous post, I actually received that engine code yesterday & took to the dealership today to find out I had a bad catalytic converter, but yours being a 2014 seems really odd to have a bad catalytic converter at age. But possible due to a few points of running rich, etc.
I'd also start with the negative battery cable. Once that's replaced clear the diagnostic code and see if it returns. Since the sensors are electrically powered bad power could cause a sensor to report incorrectly.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Sounds more like one problem, not tons of them.

Five different computer systems all depending on one power supply for proper voltage to operate properly.

Power supply is the battery, or the connectivity going to it. Simple VOM, (volt ohm meter) should show 12.9V across the battery terminals on the 20 volt range, cheap now, ten bucks will buy a decent one. Should also measure the same voltage at any ground to any positive terminal, a bunch of these on top of the battery.

Should have a load on the battery, could put the ignition switch on the run position and switch on the head lamps or the blower motor.

Report your results.

You are not alone with this problem except mine happened at around 38K miles.
Sorry for the late update. Took it to the dealer, they replaced the negative battery cable (I had to buy a new battery as well) and reflashed the computer for the Power Steering system. They erased the P0420 but it came back on within half an hour of driving. I called them and they ordered the catalytic converter. All the other issues have stopped. Only thing i have noticed is before the Volts were around 14.4-14.5 via the dash. Now it fluctuates from high 11s to high 12s?

Thanks again for all of the help
Only thing i have noticed is before the Volts were around 14.4-14.5 via the dash. Now it fluctuates from high 11s to high 12s?

Thanks again for all of the help
Normal. The cruze's charging system is variable to allow for better mpg. What you're seeing is a fully charged battery which tells the computer to kick off the alternator to get less drag on the engine. In the Cruze, a properly working charging system and full capacity battery will result in frequently fluctuating charging voltages. It's when you notice it constantly high 14s and low 15s that you know you're going to have a battery problem soon.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Not sure I would have replaced the battery at the same time unless the battery was marginal on a load test.
Welcome to the community here, you have came to the right place for help! These are a great group of guys/gals always willing help determine the cause of your issues. The code you mentioned in one of your previous post, I actually received that engine code yesterday & took to the dealership today to find out I had a bad catalytic converter, but yours being a 2014 seems really odd to have a bad catalytic converter at age. But possible due to a few points of running rich, etc.
I'm looking for bad catalytic converter 2014 cruze talk. Car has 80k, check engine light came on again. Had it in for a powertrain repair covered under power train warranty a few months back. It had been losing vacuum so they repaired a cracked cover which I'll get them to take me through step by step tomorrow. Now check engine light on again and they say it needs $750 catalytic converter replacement NOT covered under warranty. Seems to me having owned cars for 39 years with about 100 years of car ownership having never heard of replacing a catalytic converter that something caused the failure. Also, that $1800 bumper to bumper warranty good for 100k miles should cover it. Am trying to rule out that Chevy has an issue with those cat converters on the Chevy Cruze. My initial assessment is that the issue they repaired a few months ago has caused early failure plugging the catalytic converter. Even if that weren't the cause, it isn't a wearing part that fails in 3 years or I would have heard of it before having 100+ years of owning cars, so bumper to bumper $1800 warranty will cover it or else I'll never buy another Chevy. My son dropped the car off, so maybe they are just taking advantage of a 28 year old down at the dealership. He hasn't worked on cars much. I have, and have never had to replace a catalytic converter. lol who ever heard of such on a 3 yr old car?
See less See more
Pains me to report but I have yet to see an extended service contract from any underwriter that provided coverage for catalytic converters.

There are so many things that can cause a efficiency loss with the biggest suspect being fuel. Something as simple as one tank of fuel that is too high in sulfur content can cut efficiency by 20%. This loss is a result of the sulfur attaching to the grid and it does not burn off.
This is something neither you or the manufacturer can control.
Obviously, any fuel that has a trace of tetraethyl lead will poison it as well.......think of a tanker that recently refilled the 100LL avgas tanks at a airfield and not being properly flushed prior to its next delivery of unleaded.

Over the years (I'm a mostly retired wrench) I've had to replace many cats that no longer converted effectively.........and also, quite a few that melted the substrate due to over rich operation.
The melted ones are obvious......car won't go past 30 mph or in worse cases, won't even run.
The grid coated ones run just fine since there is no obstruction.....it just doesn't perform the conversion process anymore.

There was a time you could get a unit from a car at the wrecking yard, but even that is no longer legal (plus, the noble metals within are very valuable to the yard).

All this to say,
I think, from a cost of repair standpoint, you are doomed to pay.

Sux.

Rob
See less See more
Thanks, Rob. That is very helpful. It runs fine just slight loss of power, so guess things could be worse. Since it is past the 80k emissions warranty, would it hurt to switch that out for a kit? Do you know if that voids any other warranty? Eldest suggested that today.
I've learned since yesterday afternoon when I received the sad news that very expensive parts regularly fail on the cruze. We are discussing today that we need to get rid of it by 100,000 miles due to all the issues.
Thanks, Rob. That is very helpful. It runs fine just slight loss of power, so guess things could be worse. Since it is past the 80k emissions warranty, would it hurt to switch that out for a kit? Do you know if that voids any other warranty? Eldest suggested that today.
I've learned since yesterday afternoon when I received the sad news that very expensive parts regularly fail on the cruze. We are discussing today that we need to get rid of it by 100,000 miles due to all the issues.
Not just the Cruze from a part expense standpoint.

Every brand, late model vehicle, in an effort to achieve high mileage, almost zero emissions, yet retain driveability suffers from these high buck failures.
Once upon a time, if you did repairs yourself, you could keep a car running fairly economically.
Yes, the labor expense has risen over the years but the part expense has gone off the chart.

Case in point, wifes trans failed on her 08 Malibu, showing 68000 miles. The labor was in the 1200.00 range......the parts exceeded 3300.00.
Yes indeedy, even though I can perform the repair, that one claim exceeded what I paid for the GM Protection Plan.

Regarding the Cruze.....without question the first three years had some rather common component failures, same as any clean sheet car does. For the most part though, the later builds were as reliable as any other.
I always laugh when Asian cars are in the mix.....the manufacturers often sell their new version cars (clean sheet design) in the home country for a couple of years......so, those folks get to uncover the design weaknesses.
Once the car gets here, most of the problems have been ironed out and the car is perceived as 'better built'.

BTW....unless you are in California the emission warranty is only 3/36 for the other 49 states.

Rob
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I live in the great swing state of Ohio these days. We don't have to have emissions testing, but how am I going to sell this Cruze piece of junk? I won't lie to anyone and will need to sell to a mechanic who doesn't mind changing out engine parts. The warranty was 400 miles ago for that piece of junk part on this piece of junk car. I'm used to making repairs, but not over $3000 worth in a year to a 3 year old car for which I bought every available warranty. This piece of junk Cruze is such a far cry from my 1985 Chevy Silverado that it isn't even funny. This isn't the same company nor is it the same car. If they can't stand behind the junk they produce, which it appears judging by feedback today they can't, then this junk Cruze was my last Chevy. Good bye and good riddance. I'll buy an Asian car any day over this piece of junk with over $3000 in repairs since February 2017.
I left a cell phone company over a $10 bogus charge about 15 yrs ago. Most don't even know they existed these days because the company failed. My car purchase history is used VW bug, new Chevy Chevette, new Chevy Silvarado, used Honda Civic, used Celica, used, mazda truck, new Toyota Corolla, new Hyundai Accent, used Jeep Wrangler, new Chevy HHR, new Durango RT (was going to be a Chevy Malibu but son changed his mind last minute), new Nissan Altima (was also going to be Malibu but I changed my mind last minute). After what has happened this year, I thank my lucky stars that we went with the Durango and the Altima vs. the Malibu.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top