[Boathook36]

I have a 2014 that will not start. I just bought it as is and am at the bottom of the learning curve still. It has 243K miles. The interior is very nice and the car looks to have much less mileage than 243K.

I checked the DTCs and it came up with five of them.
1) P0098 Intake Air Temp Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
2) P00F5 Intake Air Humidity Sensor Circuit High Input
3) P227D Barometric Pressure Sensor "C" Circuit High
4) P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High
5) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination

I'm pretty sure the MAP sensor has the IAT2 and Barometric pressure incorporated into it. With all of them out I suspect cleaning the MAP won't help and the +5V supply voltage is suspect. I'm hoping that hunting down this issue will be enough to see the car run for the first time.

I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.

The fifth one P069E cleared and did not come back. It now just has the first four. I suspect that one was affected by the previous owner installing an injection pump. They claimed to have replaced it.

I purchased the 2014 Diesel Cruze from a family that likes to buy broken cars and flip them. This one has not been running for at least the 7 months while they owned it. The family replaced the injection pump supposedly. The EGR looks brand new so I think they replaced that too. I wasn't too impressed by their mechanical prowness. They seemed to have given up because it would not crank. I watched them demonstrate that by putting a dinky little jumpstarter on the totally discharged battery. It was just barely strong enough to turn on dash lights and to put it into neutral. I was surprised how dismayed they seemed to be when it would not crank.

When I got it home I replaced the battery and it immediately cranked properly. They didn't seem to understand that jumpstarter packs often don't work with fully discharged batteries even in low torque gas motors. There should be at least 8V on the battery for the jumpstarter to help.

I got it with a totally empty coolant reservoir. That worries me a tad. The oil is a normal diesel black without signs of water or unusual wear. It sounds fine as it cranks. The seller claimed to have compression tested the motor without issue. I'm hoping the engine is okay.

We have a 2015 Cruze (1.4L Gas motor) that has already gone through two head gaskets at 120K. We've been looking for a diesel Cruze for a long time and this one will still be the cheapest I've found even if I have to replace the motor. Hopefully the issue is just sensor or emissions related.

I want to get the car running and confirm the condition of the motor quickly. If it checks out the budget for possible motor replacement can be applied to getting an EFI Live tool and license. I've been reading those threads here on the forum and I'm excited to improve the car past its stock configuration.

 

[boraz]

i entered thread to say egr, but thats not it in this car

im all out of suggestions then

 

[Boathook36]

First thing I did was check the EGR. Its brand new. I just looked at Live Data on my scanner and all the sensors return reasonable values. I think the codes are "permanent" codes that are cleared and will automatically delete themselves after its driven. Our 2015 gas Cruze saves misfire codes like that too. I suspect the car flippers replaced lots of stuff shotgun style and all those sensors are actually new. Without knowing a clear history I might drain the fuel and focus on the glow plugs next. It sounds like its trying to start when it cranks so I would believe its just disconnected glow plugs.

 

[Boathook36]

I see the glow plug symbol flash across the dash when I turn the key. I read that its really fast in these cars so that might be normal. It bothers me that you can't see it lit like a 6.5L GMC or a 1983 VW turbodiesel. I've driven those and I used to cycle the key at least three times to let the heat dissipate into the engine. The light would stay on much longer and I just needed to see voltage at the plugs to check the wires. This seems much different. Even if I see the correct ohms across the individual glowplugs I don't know how to really know they have the engine properly prepped to start. I wonder if I can see the heat increase by putting a laser temperature gauge on the exterior of the engine?

 

[shimmy816]

for a good manual I use the online chilton at chiltondiy.com It is a subscription but it has been worth it. It seems to be pretty close to the dealership manuals.

 

[Boathook36]

for a good manual I use the online chilton at chiltondiy.com It is a subscription but it has been worth it. It seems to be pretty close to the dealership manuals.

Thats a great tip, thanks. I may try that next.

 

[Boathook36]

I looked at the live data and my first idea was that it was a 5,000 psi main pump output and a 100 psi feed pump from the tank. Turns out that was command pressure and the 100 psi was actual pressure. I finally decided to give a shot of starter fluid into it and it kicked over a few times while I watched the live values start to spike up. All of a sudden the live pressure matched the command pressure and it ran just fine.

The new injection pump wasn't primed and was having trouble pushing out the air. It ran until it got warm and then I saw a gyser of water coming from a blown coolant line in the back of the engine. That explains why the coolant bottle was empty when I bought it. I'll need to replace that line next before its maiden voyage.

 

[shimmy816]

awesome.. sounds like you are on the way to getting it running good. I love my diesel it suprises a lot of people... thats a diesel?. also when modded just right they can be pretty quick too.

 

[BDCCruze]

I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.

I made that mistake the other day. I got my money back. The manuals they have are detailed but are for the overseas vehicle - the Diesel addendum is for the LPN 2.0 not the LUZ 2.0. Different engine.

Just ask for a refund and tell them it's not the right engine, you'll get your money back.

 

[Boathook36]

What is the model name for the transmission? I saw a post on this forum stating it was an Aisan unit. Is it the same transmission in my 2015 gasoline Cruze as the 2014 diesel?

I'm a fan of the Aisan AW4. They are much more robust than the Chrysler 42RE equivalents. I've rebuilt Ford Ranger and Explorer transmissions and some Chrysler ones. I install clear fuel filters backwards on the return lines. They fill with grey sludge until the filter element pops free and the fluid bypasses it. If you put it with the arrow pointing correctly it crushes down and starves the transmission once its clogged. Putting it in backwards you don't need to watch it closely because it just stops filtering when its done. The back pressure overcomes the glue and pops the element free long before it bothers the transmission. The Ford and Chrysler trannies are notorious for blown solenoids just because the filter in the pan is a pathetic micron size. The fluid quickly turns to grey sludge from all the fine dust that easily slips through the main filter. I found the fluid would turn totally clear and a beautiful red color after four or five fuel filters and I pulled a few out of limp mode just by doing that. The little screens around the control solenoids get clogged up and then the piston jams. If you get it clean fast enough the solenoid frees up before the coil burns up. I'll be doing the same thing to this Cruze soon. I've used spin on filters meant for hydraulic systems but I've come to prefer the backwards fuel filter the best because I can see what's going on inside it. I had one crack and leak once so I keep a screwdriver and coupler in the car in case that happens. Once its very red I keep the metal coupler in place of the plastic filter so I don't need to watch it closely or worry about it leaking while my wife is driving. The coupler is two male pneumatic fittings ("Industrial hose quick disconnect plugs") with male/female pipe threads to butt them together. I cut out 2" of straight metal pipe and use 5/16" fuel hose and double hose clamps to install them. I've found the air hose fittings work just as well as real brass hose barbs (unless its 60 PSI EFI stuff) and much cheaper.

Without maintence records and with 243K miles I'm just going to work way through fluid changes. I think it needs struts too. It sits much lower than our other Cruze. It sure accelerates better and runs much smoother than our 1.4L gas Cruze. We're very happy with it already.

 

[Boathook36]

I love my diesel it suprises a lot of people... thats a diesel?. also when modded just right they can be pretty quick too.

I sure do agree! Its already much quicker than I expected. My wife complained about the noise of the engine at first but once the hood was closed and she was inside she agreed its very quiet. Then she drove it and now she loves it. I'm really impressed how smooth and quick it accelerates compared to the old stuff I've driven. Its considerably better than our 1.4L Cruze in every way.

My father once got pulled over in his 1983 Turbodiesel VW Quantum. Its a generic sedan much like the Cruze. The cop complained about the smoke and was totally shocked to hear it was a diesel. He often had people talk to him in parking lots and such. I'm fully expecting my wife to experience the same attention while driving this. The Quantum has been sitting for the past 5 years and once this new Cruze started for the first time he was asking me to get that car spruced back up and back on the road too. That engine rattle is addicting.

 

[Boathook36]

 

[Boathook36]

I've been reading that my 2015 1.4L has a 6T40 transmission. The 1.8L was downgraded to a 6T30 and eventually the 1.4L was downgraded to a 6T35 in 2016. I'm guessing our 2.0L Diesel Cruzes used a 6T45 or 6T40. I haven't found any concrete info yet. I would snag a spare transmission if I could and its much easier to find 1.4L donors than 2.0L.

Now I see reference to the "Aisin AF60" under the transmission ratios thread. Wikipedia calls it an AWTF-80. It sounds like its much better than the 6T40 and not at all compatible. I did see advertisements for the transmission controller that implied it was the same unit for both.

 

[boraz]

I've been reading that my 2015 1.4L has a 6T40 transmission. The 1.8L was downgraded to a 6T30 and eventually the 1.4L was downgraded to a 6T35 in 2016. I'm guessing our 2.0L Diesel Cruzes used a 6T45 or 6T40. I haven't found any concrete info yet. I would snag a spare transmission if I could and its much easier to find 1.4L donors than 2.0L.

Now I see reference to the "Aisin AF60" under the transmission ratios thread. Wikipedia calls it an AWTF-80. It sounds like its much better than the 6T40 and not at all compatible. I did see advertisements for the transmission controller that implied it was the same unit for both.

the car has aisin af40-6 trans, same as tf-80sc

its way better than any gm trans

same that the aw4 is better than any chrysler trans

i have 2 1998 xjs with aw4, both over 350,000km each....one of them i changed the overdrive solenoid, the other ive done nothing to...just fluid and filter erry 80,000km

 

[MP81]

the car has aisin af40-6 trans, same as tf-80sc

its way better than any gm trans

Ours is a piece of ****.

 

[Tomko]

In my lifetime fleet, I’ve had THM125C, 700R4, 4L60E, 4T80E, and AF40-6. My ownership experiences with this Aisin transmission make me pine for a return to GM transmissions.

 

[shimmy816]

just from experience pushing the diesel way past where it should be .. for reliability get a external trans cooler do a trans change even though it is supposed to be sealed.

 

[Boathook36]

It still running great as I hit the 200 mile mark since I got it. "Running Great" is relative to my very low expectations. It is much smoother and faster than our other Cruze. The fuel mileage is frankly bad and it is very hard to start while cold. I'm attributing that first to the remaining check engine codes and then maybe increased back pressure from old emissions components. I bet they are pretty well clogged up in those canisters after 243K miles.

The codes left to fix are:

1) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination.
2) P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit

It is very hard to start when cold. I have to cycle the key at least six times sometimes. I knew I must have some work to do with the glow plugs and now this code is here. I think I found the glow plug control module by the picture on Rockauto of what a new one looks like. It looks like its near the passenger side headlight. I haven't figured out where the actual glow plugs are yet. I should pull them all to clean and ohm out the wires.

I read that the P069E could be from some plastic shutter doodad on the underside of the car. It goes away and comes back around the 50 degree mark so that seems to match up as the culprit.

The Eco tab reports 20 mpg average with 30 mpg average on a long trip with over an hour on the highway. That seems low to me.

We're looking at saving up for the downpipe and an Autoscan V3. The majority of the used ones I'm spotting for sale are V2 and I'm really hoping to get a V3. I also see alot of ones that look like V2 with a fancy sticker on the front from third party tuning packages. I'm avoiding them because I figure I'll need to get another VIN license because the tuner and the end user both used up the two VINs they typically come with direct from EFI Live. Maybe someone here can provide first hand experience with how that works.

I'm really hoping the tuning files from the now defunct brands like Oz or whoever can be found and saved externally. I figure they are fair game to share now that you're not affecting the sale of future customers. I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve for all that.

 

[Boathook36]

I was down for awhile with the car nearly impossible to start. I purchased new glow plugs. It looks like three of the glow plugs were newer than the fourth and it was the dark fourth one that was totally shot. The next problem was that the threads came out very rounded. I was not risking further damage to the threads so I purchased a tap to chase the threads. Its 9mm x 1.0 for the tap. Of course I purchased a 10 x 1.0 tap and die first and putting the die on the old glow plugs proved it was too loose. The second time I got them through NAPA and was pleasantly surprised they are much cheaper and faster for individual tap and dies than Amazon.

 

[Boathook36]

The dark glow plug wasn't fully seated into the cylinder head because the threads were too bad. Only about five turns got tight. I had to use the die on an old glow plug and keep running that down because the tap didnt have enough threads to stay straight. The long shank of the glow plug kept it straight and the smaller softer threads helped clean up the burr slowly. Eventually the tap was able to put good threads in and now all four thread fully in with finger tension. I like that it doesn't get tight until the bottom is fully seated and sealed.

The car still doesn't start and the glowplug symbol flashes up for less than a second. I'm thinking the module died too. I'm going to bypass the module and see if starts before looking for other possible causes.