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2014 Diesel Cruze will not start

14111 Views 92 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Boathook36
I have a 2014 that will not start. I just bought it as is and am at the bottom of the learning curve still. It has 243K miles. The interior is very nice and the car looks to have much less mileage than 243K.

I checked the DTCs and it came up with five of them.
1) P0098 Intake Air Temp Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
2) P00F5 Intake Air Humidity Sensor Circuit High Input
3) P227D Barometric Pressure Sensor "C" Circuit High
4) P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High
5) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination

I'm pretty sure the MAP sensor has the IAT2 and Barometric pressure incorporated into it. With all of them out I suspect cleaning the MAP won't help and the +5V supply voltage is suspect. I'm hoping that hunting down this issue will be enough to see the car run for the first time.

I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.

The fifth one P069E cleared and did not come back. It now just has the first four. I suspect that one was affected by the previous owner installing an injection pump. They claimed to have replaced it.

I purchased the 2014 Diesel Cruze from a family that likes to buy broken cars and flip them. This one has not been running for at least the 7 months while they owned it. The family replaced the injection pump supposedly. The EGR looks brand new so I think they replaced that too. I wasn't too impressed by their mechanical prowness. They seemed to have given up because it would not crank. I watched them demonstrate that by putting a dinky little jumpstarter on the totally discharged battery. It was just barely strong enough to turn on dash lights and to put it into neutral. I was surprised how dismayed they seemed to be when it would not crank.

When I got it home I replaced the battery and it immediately cranked properly. They didn't seem to understand that jumpstarter packs often don't work with fully discharged batteries even in low torque gas motors. There should be at least 8V on the battery for the jumpstarter to help.

I got it with a totally empty coolant reservoir. That worries me a tad. The oil is a normal diesel black without signs of water or unusual wear. It sounds fine as it cranks. The seller claimed to have compression tested the motor without issue. I'm hoping the engine is okay.

We have a 2015 Cruze (1.4L Gas motor) that has already gone through two head gaskets at 120K. We've been looking for a diesel Cruze for a long time and this one will still be the cheapest I've found even if I have to replace the motor. Hopefully the issue is just sensor or emissions related.

I want to get the car running and confirm the condition of the motor quickly. If it checks out the budget for possible motor replacement can be applied to getting an EFI Live tool and license. I've been reading those threads here on the forum and I'm excited to improve the car past its stock configuration.
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now i remeber that bracket...but also read your comment wrong , i thought you went THRU the fan like from the outside of the car

when i did mine, i watched the yt video and read the tutorial on here, and didnt have to remove the engine mount though
You have to bend the pressure pipes a little bit to get it out at all.

In addition the manual has you remove... Quite a lot... From the engine bay. Including the intercooler pipe. None of this really helps the dpf get out but it does give some space for hands.
Several new ABS specific codes also showed up, which basically points to the ECU picking up wrong camshaft signals and calling it "invalid data." If the camshaft sensor puts out the wrong value at startup the computer just turns off the TCU because GM engineers are jerks. If you make it past the startup pitfall it was driving perfectly.

The CPS sensor is critical for the ECM's torque calculation. It's just a 'guess' on what torque the engine is making based on fuel, engine rpm, air, O2, etc....

Without that calculation, the ECM can't service torque requests.

The "TCU" is 90% torque reduction requests. 10% of it is wheel brakes.
Also don't forget the crankshaft variation relearn. This is very important even if the new sensor seems to work fine.

It's very simple you just command it, and slam on the throttle.

Camshaft doesnt require it. Words are too **** alike.
A new code showed up as P24A5 "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Control Valve Stuck." This time it runs horribly while in limp mode with smoke and no power. Before when in limp mode it ran as normal and accelerated right up to the speed limited by 2nd gear. Now it runs horribly also. Im guessing thats the line I moved to get to the Camshaft sensor coming off a valve on the intake hose before the turbo. Yay. The plot thickens.

I found the crankshaft position sensor underneath the starter but dang if I can reach it well. I just drove it home to find a mirror before I switch that.
It’s a fault on the 5 (maybe 5.1V) power rail.

The sensors powered by said rail are the Dpf differential pressure sensor, camshaft position sensor, EGR position, EGR cooler actuator, engine oil pressure sensor, and Fuel Rail Pressure sensor.

Could be a wiring short. A internal short in one of those sensors. Or an ECM failure…. But the sensors themselves are likely fine.

I’d even call the ECM/ignition controls relay into question (#7 I think?). Not to be confused with the ignition main relay.
Also if someone wants to be nice and pull up the diagram I am talking about. I don’t have access to the Cruze manual.

It’ll just be called “5V1 and Low Reference Bus” or some other similar name. Another one will be called “Power, Ground, …..” which shows the power from the fuse box to the ECM.
What if the 5V rail is being pulled down by the EGR cooler valve itself? The CamPS could just be the most sensitive device on that common rail so the first to send up a red flag.

When I deleted the canister I got an EGR delete blankoff plate but did not install it. I figured if the tune never called for the EGR to open it would not float open by itself. The EGR was also brand new so well seated in its closed position without any crud to cause the valve to leak.

Is it possible for the sudden poor running condition to be caused by exhaust gas akin to an EGR valve stuck open?

What the heck is an EGR cooler? It looks like an interchanger being fed antifreeze to cool the EGR valve output hot gases before they reach the engine. Maybe corrosion caused a leak that is pushing antifreeze spray into my engine? Maybe the valve getting stuck pulled down the 5V rail just enough for invalid data from another sensor?
These error codes would not be caused by just general poor performance. There is definitely something electrical wrong.

The EGR cooler helps control the engine temp (especially during cold weather). It has a small intercooler effect as well for the EGR gasses. The most common EGR cooler failure just causes coolant to leak outside, but not inside the engine. I am not all that familiar with its exact mechanism.
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