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2014 Diesel Cruze will not start

14111 Views 92 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Boathook36
I have a 2014 that will not start. I just bought it as is and am at the bottom of the learning curve still. It has 243K miles. The interior is very nice and the car looks to have much less mileage than 243K.

I checked the DTCs and it came up with five of them.
1) P0098 Intake Air Temp Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
2) P00F5 Intake Air Humidity Sensor Circuit High Input
3) P227D Barometric Pressure Sensor "C" Circuit High
4) P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High
5) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination

I'm pretty sure the MAP sensor has the IAT2 and Barometric pressure incorporated into it. With all of them out I suspect cleaning the MAP won't help and the +5V supply voltage is suspect. I'm hoping that hunting down this issue will be enough to see the car run for the first time.

I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.

The fifth one P069E cleared and did not come back. It now just has the first four. I suspect that one was affected by the previous owner installing an injection pump. They claimed to have replaced it.

I purchased the 2014 Diesel Cruze from a family that likes to buy broken cars and flip them. This one has not been running for at least the 7 months while they owned it. The family replaced the injection pump supposedly. The EGR looks brand new so I think they replaced that too. I wasn't too impressed by their mechanical prowness. They seemed to have given up because it would not crank. I watched them demonstrate that by putting a dinky little jumpstarter on the totally discharged battery. It was just barely strong enough to turn on dash lights and to put it into neutral. I was surprised how dismayed they seemed to be when it would not crank.

When I got it home I replaced the battery and it immediately cranked properly. They didn't seem to understand that jumpstarter packs often don't work with fully discharged batteries even in low torque gas motors. There should be at least 8V on the battery for the jumpstarter to help.

I got it with a totally empty coolant reservoir. That worries me a tad. The oil is a normal diesel black without signs of water or unusual wear. It sounds fine as it cranks. The seller claimed to have compression tested the motor without issue. I'm hoping the engine is okay.

We have a 2015 Cruze (1.4L Gas motor) that has already gone through two head gaskets at 120K. We've been looking for a diesel Cruze for a long time and this one will still be the cheapest I've found even if I have to replace the motor. Hopefully the issue is just sensor or emissions related.

I want to get the car running and confirm the condition of the motor quickly. If it checks out the budget for possible motor replacement can be applied to getting an EFI Live tool and license. I've been reading those threads here on the forum and I'm excited to improve the car past its stock configuration.
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i entered thread to say egr, but thats not it in this car

im all out of suggestions then
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I've been reading that my 2015 1.4L has a 6T40 transmission. The 1.8L was downgraded to a 6T30 and eventually the 1.4L was downgraded to a 6T35 in 2016. I'm guessing our 2.0L Diesel Cruzes used a 6T45 or 6T40. I haven't found any concrete info yet. I would snag a spare transmission if I could and its much easier to find 1.4L donors than 2.0L.

Now I see reference to the "Aisin AF60" under the transmission ratios thread. Wikipedia calls it an AWTF-80. It sounds like its much better than the 6T40 and not at all compatible. I did see advertisements for the transmission controller that implied it was the same unit for both.
the car has aisin af40-6 trans, same as tf-80sc

its way better than any gm trans

same that the aw4 is better than any chrysler trans

i have 2 1998 xjs with aw4, both over 350,000km of them i changed the overdrive solenoid, the other ive done nothing to...just fluid and filter erry 80,000km
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Replacing the DPF Canister was much more difficult than I expected. After it was loose it did not want to drop out of the car. I had to remove the engine mount to finally get it out. Even that was surprisingly hard. The upper bolt is barely accessible by a Ujoint and a long extension poked up through the radiator fan.
had none of these issues removing my dpf, im not understanding what youve done
There is a bracket supporting the middle of the DPF. Two nuts on the DPF come off easy but the bracket wouldnt allow the DPF past. The second picture shows that. View attachment 292884 View attachment 292885

I couldn't get to the two 13mm nuts on the engine block without removing the engine mount and lifting the engine up just a little. The upper engine mount bolt was accessed through the radiator fan with a Ujoint and long extension.

now i remeber that bracket...but also read your comment wrong , i thought you went THRU the fan like from the outside of the car

when i did mine, i watched the yt video and read the tutorial on here, and didnt have to remove the engine mount though
You have to bend the pressure pipes a little bit to get it out at all.

In addition the manual has you remove... Quite a lot... From the engine bay. Including the intercooler pipe. None of this really helps the dpf get out but it does give some space for hands.
been a couple years, for sure never touched intercooler pipe, dont member bending pressure pipes, but i wasnt concerned with damaging it

what i remember is fussing with 10mm? nuts, like on heat shield or something, could only turn them 1/10000th of a turn or stuff was in the way, and rounding off the exhaust stud nuts
We love the new ride. It is much better than stock. We'll be doing the exact same modification to our other Cruze, which I believe to be a good example of stock setup given its low 50K mileage. I dont like the lean but the rear doesnt rub. I'll be modding the rear eventually too with a stiffer coil spring. This is the current side profile. We have 225/70R16 tires and rims from a 2005 Chevy Equinox on the Cruze. Those rims require a 1/4" spacer on the front to clear the strut. Its approximately 1.5" taller than stock with about 3/4" of that just from the larger tires being about 1.5" larger than stock. The 16" vs 17" rims means theres alot more sidewall and that softens the ride as much as the stiffer springs tightens the ride. Its perfect ride and it eats potholes beautifully. I also removed the little rubber thing on the front. It hops curbs and clears bumpstops now.
if you drive that at night, hopefully the oncoming semi that you are blinding will take you off the road
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