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2014 Diesel Cruze will not start

14111 Views 92 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Boathook36
I have a 2014 that will not start. I just bought it as is and am at the bottom of the learning curve still. It has 243K miles. The interior is very nice and the car looks to have much less mileage than 243K.

I checked the DTCs and it came up with five of them.
1) P0098 Intake Air Temp Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
2) P00F5 Intake Air Humidity Sensor Circuit High Input
3) P227D Barometric Pressure Sensor "C" Circuit High
4) P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High
5) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination

I'm pretty sure the MAP sensor has the IAT2 and Barometric pressure incorporated into it. With all of them out I suspect cleaning the MAP won't help and the +5V supply voltage is suspect. I'm hoping that hunting down this issue will be enough to see the car run for the first time.

I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.

The fifth one P069E cleared and did not come back. It now just has the first four. I suspect that one was affected by the previous owner installing an injection pump. They claimed to have replaced it.

I purchased the 2014 Diesel Cruze from a family that likes to buy broken cars and flip them. This one has not been running for at least the 7 months while they owned it. The family replaced the injection pump supposedly. The EGR looks brand new so I think they replaced that too. I wasn't too impressed by their mechanical prowness. They seemed to have given up because it would not crank. I watched them demonstrate that by putting a dinky little jumpstarter on the totally discharged battery. It was just barely strong enough to turn on dash lights and to put it into neutral. I was surprised how dismayed they seemed to be when it would not crank.

When I got it home I replaced the battery and it immediately cranked properly. They didn't seem to understand that jumpstarter packs often don't work with fully discharged batteries even in low torque gas motors. There should be at least 8V on the battery for the jumpstarter to help.

I got it with a totally empty coolant reservoir. That worries me a tad. The oil is a normal diesel black without signs of water or unusual wear. It sounds fine as it cranks. The seller claimed to have compression tested the motor without issue. I'm hoping the engine is okay.

We have a 2015 Cruze (1.4L Gas motor) that has already gone through two head gaskets at 120K. We've been looking for a diesel Cruze for a long time and this one will still be the cheapest I've found even if I have to replace the motor. Hopefully the issue is just sensor or emissions related.

I want to get the car running and confirm the condition of the motor quickly. If it checks out the budget for possible motor replacement can be applied to getting an EFI Live tool and license. I've been reading those threads here on the forum and I'm excited to improve the car past its stock configuration.
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First thing I did was check the EGR. Its brand new. I just looked at Live Data on my scanner and all the sensors return reasonable values. I think the codes are "permanent" codes that are cleared and will automatically delete themselves after its driven. Our 2015 gas Cruze saves misfire codes like that too. I suspect the car flippers replaced lots of stuff shotgun style and all those sensors are actually new. Without knowing a clear history I might drain the fuel and focus on the glow plugs next. It sounds like its trying to start when it cranks so I would believe its just disconnected glow plugs.
I see the glow plug symbol flash across the dash when I turn the key. I read that its really fast in these cars so that might be normal. It bothers me that you can't see it lit like a 6.5L GMC or a 1983 VW turbodiesel. I've driven those and I used to cycle the key at least three times to let the heat dissipate into the engine. The light would stay on much longer and I just needed to see voltage at the plugs to check the wires. This seems much different. Even if I see the correct ohms across the individual glowplugs I don't know how to really know they have the engine properly prepped to start. I wonder if I can see the heat increase by putting a laser temperature gauge on the exterior of the engine?
for a good manual I use the online chilton at It is a subscription but it has been worth it. It seems to be pretty close to the dealership manuals.
Thats a great tip, thanks. I may try that next.
I looked at the live data and my first idea was that it was a 5,000 psi main pump output and a 100 psi feed pump from the tank. Turns out that was command pressure and the 100 psi was actual pressure. I finally decided to give a shot of starter fluid into it and it kicked over a few times while I watched the live values start to spike up. All of a sudden the live pressure matched the command pressure and it ran just fine.

The new injection pump wasn't primed and was having trouble pushing out the air. It ran until it got warm and then I saw a gyser of water coming from a blown coolant line in the back of the engine. That explains why the coolant bottle was empty when I bought it. I'll need to replace that line next before its maiden voyage.
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What is the model name for the transmission? I saw a post on this forum stating it was an Aisan unit. Is it the same transmission in my 2015 gasoline Cruze as the 2014 diesel?

I'm a fan of the Aisan AW4. They are much more robust than the Chrysler 42RE equivalents. I've rebuilt Ford Ranger and Explorer transmissions and some Chrysler ones. I install clear fuel filters backwards on the return lines. They fill with grey sludge until the filter element pops free and the fluid bypasses it. If you put it with the arrow pointing correctly it crushes down and starves the transmission once its clogged. Putting it in backwards you don't need to watch it closely because it just stops filtering when its done. The back pressure overcomes the glue and pops the element free long before it bothers the transmission. The Ford and Chrysler trannies are notorious for blown solenoids just because the filter in the pan is a pathetic micron size. The fluid quickly turns to grey sludge from all the fine dust that easily slips through the main filter. I found the fluid would turn totally clear and a beautiful red color after four or five fuel filters and I pulled a few out of limp mode just by doing that. The little screens around the control solenoids get clogged up and then the piston jams. If you get it clean fast enough the solenoid frees up before the coil burns up. I'll be doing the same thing to this Cruze soon. I've used spin on filters meant for hydraulic systems but I've come to prefer the backwards fuel filter the best because I can see what's going on inside it. I had one crack and leak once so I keep a screwdriver and coupler in the car in case that happens. Once its very red I keep the metal coupler in place of the plastic filter so I don't need to watch it closely or worry about it leaking while my wife is driving. The coupler is two male pneumatic fittings ("Industrial hose quick disconnect plugs") with male/female pipe threads to butt them together. I cut out 2" of straight metal pipe and use 5/16" fuel hose and double hose clamps to install them. I've found the air hose fittings work just as well as real brass hose barbs (unless its 60 PSI EFI stuff) and much cheaper.

Without maintence records and with 243K miles I'm just going to work way through fluid changes. I think it needs struts too. It sits much lower than our other Cruze. It sure accelerates better and runs much smoother than our 1.4L gas Cruze. We're very happy with it already.
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I love my diesel it suprises a lot of people... thats a diesel?. also when modded just right they can be pretty quick too.
I sure do agree! Its already much quicker than I expected. My wife complained about the noise of the engine at first but once the hood was closed and she was inside she agreed its very quiet. Then she drove it and now she loves it. I'm really impressed how smooth and quick it accelerates compared to the old stuff I've driven. Its considerably better than our 1.4L Cruze in every way.

My father once got pulled over in his 1983 Turbodiesel VW Quantum. Its a generic sedan much like the Cruze. The cop complained about the smoke and was totally shocked to hear it was a diesel. He often had people talk to him in parking lots and such. I'm fully expecting my wife to experience the same attention while driving this. The Quantum has been sitting for the past 5 years and once this new Cruze started for the first time he was asking me to get that car spruced back up and back on the road too. That engine rattle is addicting.
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I've been reading that my 2015 1.4L has a 6T40 transmission. The 1.8L was downgraded to a 6T30 and eventually the 1.4L was downgraded to a 6T35 in 2016. I'm guessing our 2.0L Diesel Cruzes used a 6T45 or 6T40. I haven't found any concrete info yet. I would snag a spare transmission if I could and its much easier to find 1.4L donors than 2.0L.

Now I see reference to the "Aisin AF60" under the transmission ratios thread. Wikipedia calls it an AWTF-80. It sounds like its much better than the 6T40 and not at all compatible. I did see advertisements for the transmission controller that implied it was the same unit for both.
It still running great as I hit the 200 mile mark since I got it. "Running Great" is relative to my very low expectations. It is much smoother and faster than our other Cruze. The fuel mileage is frankly bad and it is very hard to start while cold. I'm attributing that first to the remaining check engine codes and then maybe increased back pressure from old emissions components. I bet they are pretty well clogged up in those canisters after 243K miles.

The codes left to fix are:

1) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination.
2) P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit

It is very hard to start when cold. I have to cycle the key at least six times sometimes. I knew I must have some work to do with the glow plugs and now this code is here. I think I found the glow plug control module by the picture on Rockauto of what a new one looks like. It looks like its near the passenger side headlight. I haven't figured out where the actual glow plugs are yet. I should pull them all to clean and ohm out the wires.

I read that the P069E could be from some plastic shutter doodad on the underside of the car. It goes away and comes back around the 50 degree mark so that seems to match up as the culprit.

The Eco tab reports 20 mpg average with 30 mpg average on a long trip with over an hour on the highway. That seems low to me.

We're looking at saving up for the downpipe and an Autoscan V3. The majority of the used ones I'm spotting for sale are V2 and I'm really hoping to get a V3. I also see alot of ones that look like V2 with a fancy sticker on the front from third party tuning packages. I'm avoiding them because I figure I'll need to get another VIN license because the tuner and the end user both used up the two VINs they typically come with direct from EFI Live. Maybe someone here can provide first hand experience with how that works.

I'm really hoping the tuning files from the now defunct brands like Oz or whoever can be found and saved externally. I figure they are fair game to share now that you're not affecting the sale of future customers. I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve for all that.
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I was down for awhile with the car nearly impossible to start. I purchased new glow plugs. It looks like three of the glow plugs were newer than the fourth and it was the dark fourth one that was totally shot. The next problem was that the threads came out very rounded. I was not risking further damage to the threads so I purchased a tap to chase the threads. Its 9mm x 1.0 for the tap. Of course I purchased a 10 x 1.0 tap and die first and putting the die on the old glow plugs proved it was too loose. The second time I got them through NAPA and was pleasantly surprised they are much cheaper and faster for individual tap and dies than Amazon.


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The dark glow plug wasn't fully seated into the cylinder head because the threads were too bad. Only about five turns got tight. I had to use the die on an old glow plug and keep running that down because the tap didnt have enough threads to stay straight. The long shank of the glow plug kept it straight and the smaller softer threads helped clean up the burr slowly. Eventually the tap was able to put good threads in and now all four thread fully in with finger tension. I like that it doesn't get tight until the bottom is fully seated and sealed.

The car still doesn't start and the glowplug symbol flashes up for less than a second. I'm thinking the module died too. I'm going to bypass the module and see if starts before looking for other possible causes.
We have about two thousand miles on the car already. After finding the badly cross-threaded glow plugs and retapping and replacing them the car still did not start. Turns out the starter was in bad shape and then the high pressure fuel line on the brand new fuel injection pump was installed improperly by the previous owners. It had popped off. Those three things took about a month to figure out and it has been running well since.

We got one flat and I tried to use the spare tire from our other Cruze. I had figured on grabbing a spare tire from a gas Cruze at a junkyard. I was rather surprised to find the bolt pattern is different. The gas Cruzes have a 5x105mm pattern and the Diesel uses 5x115mm. I'm not aware of any other car that uses 5x115mm. I'm going to try a spare from my old Jeep Cherokee next. Thats 5x4.5" which comes rather close at 5x114.7mm. I haven't tried it yet. The tiny doughnut spare has very little backspacing so it might be okay. I probably need at least a 16" rim to clear the caliper brackets. The Jeep 16" and 17" wheels are usually 5x5". All the 5x4.5" Jeep wheels I have are 15". I think the Rubicon wheels from 2003-2006 might be the only compatible donor I've found so far and those are only 16". I'll keep looking.

I replaced the tires with one size larger. They are 215/65R17. The tires are 28" diameter instead of 26-1/4" for the stock size (215/55R17). They fit well. I was prepared to clearance any rub spots and they fit without having to. Plenty of room even in hard bumps. It adds 1 MPH to every 20 MPH on the speedometer. If the speedometer says we're going 80 we're actually going 84. If it says 60 we're actually going 63. That extra girth around the rim made a huge difference in ride quality. It soaks up the potholes and rough roads much better. The nose clears most curbs now with that extra inch of ground clearance.

I still have a check engine light because my active grill shutter was found to be damaged. One of the pins corroded and broke off inside the plug. I think the 1.8L gas Cruzes used the same unit but I haven't found any of those yet. I may try to defeat it for now. I think the shutter gets 12V to activate on two pins then returns a ground on a third pin to indicate status. I could mimic that with a relay. I haven't tried it yet.
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Thanks for mentioning the Verano. I had never even heard of one before that. There is one at the local yard for me to check out.

The horn doesn't work. There is power at the fuse. I checked the connections from underneath and there is no obvious issue. Its time to quit grumbling about it and full the front clip to keep trouble-shooting. I'm planning on working on the active grill shutters at the same time.
I'll never buy those dang things. I put everything together with old scrap pieces of 12G Romex wire.


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I finally fixed my active shutters today. The previous owner replaced the assembly but the plug has one of the four pins exposed more than the other three. Through the hole you can see heavy green copper oxide and a broken pin jammed inside it. I poured sulfuric acid drain cleaner into a glass shotglass and dunked it for about 30 seconds. When all the green oxide was gone I rinsed it thoroughly. I've used better combinations of cleaning products to etch corroded PCB boards before but this worked okay for this. Its nice bright bare copper all the way inside where I could never reach with a wire brush or file. I was able to dig out the broken pin with tweezers. Its plugged into the motor and fastened to the body separate from the shutter assembly. It worked and did its little startup dance and the code finally cleared. I expect it to last longer without the load of the shutters. The shutters themselves are wired tight in the open position by drilling a hole in the center. I have very little regard for whatever the heck the shutters are meant to accomplish.


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Here's the plug after the acid bath and before digging out the broken pin. Its visible in this picture.


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I also installed the dash camera today. I ran a 10 foot usb extension cable up through the B pillar trim and let it poke out next to the grab handle. From there a short cable is plugged into the dash camera. Its the cheapest camera I could find that supports a 256 gig microSD card. It was $150 at best buy. It has a second camera feed to face rearward to view both front and rear. It is powered on all the time and left recording even when parked. If I was to let the car sit for several days I just unplug it by the grab handle to keep from killing the battery. The plug turns off with the ignition normally but I defeated that by yanking the relay and jamming it shut.

The interior fuse block swivels down to expose three relay slots on top. The plastic cover on the relay isn't hard to pop off. From there I jammed a spoon against the contact. That contact is normally pulled by the electromagnet to make contact then springs away once the electromagnet releases when the ignition turns off. My little chunk of spoon keeps the camera and phone chargers on all the time. The cover pops back on the relay and it looks unmodified so I write a big X on the top to remember which one I've defeated.


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This is a good picture to share. The limiting factor for tire size is the Strut to tire clearance. This space stays constant as the strut moves up and down with the spring. I did not need to modify anything at all and there was plenty of space around the tire everywhere else. I used 215/65R17 tires that are nearly 2" bigger than stock and the difference in ride quality is even much bigger than I expected. Its so much nicer with the extra cushion affect of having such tall sidewalls.


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I'm fixing this up for my wife to drive Uber in Philly. She drove 60K miles last year and beat the snot out of the gas Cruze with several flats and a tire unbeaded from the rim. When there are weekend bonus promotions she sticks to the rough areas all day and its all zipping through back alleys and over sidewalks. I've already had to drive my van an hour away and rebead her tire with lighter fluid to get it home among several late night tire repairs. Before COVID I once had to steal a tire off the display rack at a 24 hour Walmart to switch on to her car to get it home.

We welcome the thought that extra sidewall could prevent a repeat event. I saved the stock tires that came off to make some full size spares or to prevent another midnight Walmart raid.

The attached pictures show old versus new. I only replaced two initially to make sure they would clear. I also included the picture of the old tire unbeaded from the rim. That event prompted me to do it sooner than later.

Our driveway is brutal. My family drives SUVs and trucks that make the Cruze feel like a Go-cart so we never care to fix the rough spots. The difference in ride quality is mostly measured in how well it now drives across the same driveway every day that used to be jarring and painful for her.

Happy wife, happy life. It was money well spent.


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