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2014 Diesel Cruze Wont Start

25733 Views 33 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  ewyborny
My 2014 Cruze with 37K miles wont start all of a sudden. I've never had any problems with the car. Just yesterday I went out to start the car, it cranked and sounded like the timing was off and then shut off. Sometimes it just cranks and doesn't try to start at all. Car is completely stock. Any ideas?
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Was this shortly after a fill up and where do you buy most of your fuel, high volume truck stop or lowest price station off the beaten path?? If high volume truck stop probably not fuel issues. I ran my fuel filter to about 39K with 5% left on the DIC without any noticeable issues but most of my fuel is from high vol truck stops and I always use additives.

Washington State had temp of 53F around 8AM today so I would not expect glow plugs to be an issue. Might require extra cranking to start though if they were not working but should have started with a lot of white smoke.

If everything was normal the day before probably something simple like EGR valve stuck open due carbon or a sensor died due to infant mortality.
 

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Although the part was replaced under warranty with an improved part.
How many mile on the car when you had problems and do you know what was allegedly improve about the new EGR valve?


I remember a couple people on here had issues with stuck EGR and car not starting. I'd tend to go that route rather than fuel or glow plugs, when starting to troubleshoot. Please keep us posted.
I know you are the high miler around here and don't believe in cleaning your MAP sensor but have you had any issues with the EGR on your TD? Did you ever check the EGR to see the actual state the way many of us have done with the MAP sensor? Maybe another maintenance item if one wants to avoid an unpredictable no start issue at an inconvenient time?

The EGR on my F350 6.0L PS crudes up very fast but has not cause a no start yet but has cause irregular turbo operation when extremely cold outside, maybe because I clean it on a regular basis? Thanks.
 

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I've never had an EGR issue. I've never taken a look at it, but it's no doubt a good idea that I do, or at least locate it. I don't even know where it is.

Great to hear you isolated the problem with our help! Did you clean it, or replace it? Did the car start afterwards?
Hope this solves the OP problem, appear relatively cheap from Rock $117+ change.

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I've never had an EGR issue. I've never taken a look at it, but it's no doubt a good idea that I do, or at least locate it. I don't even know where it is.

Great to hear you isolated the problem with our help! Did you clean it, or replace it? Did the car start afterwards?
Hope this solves the OP problem, appear relatively cheap from Rock $117+ change. If we could get final results from the OP?
Note the the plate (item 20) in diagram is recommented to be replaced at same time. Is that a gasket??

View attachment 226346 View attachment 226354
 

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I just cleaned the EGR, I soaked it in diesel and used an acid brush to get into the hard to reach areas. After it was cleaned I reinstalled it and the car fired up without any issue at all. Everything seems to be back to normal. I can't believe that it was gunked up so bad with only having 37,000 miles on the odometer. I just might have to look into an EGR delete. I foresee this happening again.
From a historical maintenance perspective I'm kind of interested in the data on your vehicle i.e. do you drive mostly city or high way miles and about what % city vs hwy, do you buy diesel mostly from high vol truck stops, do you use any diesel fuel additives?

Just wondering whether its the city drivers that are having the most problems with the EGR? My driving is mostly hwy at 60-70 mph at a rate of 120 miles a
day due to work, with only a few local miles on weekends. No problems yet with the EGR and there is 57K miles on the clock. Trying to decide whether I should pull the EGR and clean so that I maintain my goal of the car being available 100% of the time 24/7 with out any unplanned down time except for scheduled "routine" maintenance.

Would consider a short posting of the steps involved for pulling the EGR and any before and after pictures you might have of the cleaning?
 

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The wife drives it 90% of the time. Every couple months we take a 400 mile trip to visit family down in Oregon, when I drive I average about 75-80 MPH on the interstate, on the highway it's usually 65 MPH. Besides that the rest of the time the car is driven mostly in the small town we live in. Once in a while we drive it to the next town to do our larger grocery shopping and that's probably about 30 miles or so at the most.

I did take pics of the EGR while it was all plugged up, I don't think I have the permissions to post pics because I'm not a paying member at this time. I didn't take any after I cleaned it, I was in a hurry to get it installed to see if that was truly the problem.

As far as pulling the EGR valve, all I did was remove the plastic cover on top of the motor and removed the two T-30 Torx bits that bolt it in, there was a bracket that held a small hard line that caught the ear of the EGR so I removed the two 10mm bolts and it allowed for enough clearance to pull the EGR out of its home. The EGR is located on the back side of the engine, basically if you were to look at your firewall and notice the heater core lines going into the cab, it would be directly across from that on the Engine side (hope that makes sense).

Here is a link to the pic of that EGR. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...9/6405680710559721346?authkey=CMy8s7_x_8q_mgE Hope it works...
Thanks for the info, I'm beginning to conclude that city driving is more prone to EGR clogging then primarily hwy driving base on info posted to this forum? Did you by any chance look at the EGR cooler while you were in the same area?

A while back I read in Diesel World 12/2016 the VW TDI's were clogging by 200K miles, clogged EGR, EGR cooler and intake. They had a complete article with photos on cleaning and the corresponding improvement in performance after cleaning, so much for our so called "CLEAN" diesels!

More recently in 8 LUG HD Truck 3/2017 there was an article about recommended cleaners for EGR coolers, intakes and EGR valves. Out of 5 cleaners tried the top two were Clean-Rite Purple Power and Piston Clean. Among the others included Simple Green ALL PURPOSE , NAPA MACS 6402 Carburetor Cleaner, Mopar EGR System Cleaner. Not sure i would use Purple Power on an EGR that had electronics unless used very carefully.
 
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The various "purple" degreasers are exceedingly effective but will damage aluminum some other non-ferrous metals because they contain sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient... Aerosol brake cleaners (both chlorinated and non-chlorinated) should do the job with a little scrubbing, and they won't damage soft metals.
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I'm not sure I mentioned "various" types of "Purple" degreasers, :idisagree: but only one type "Purple Power Cleaner/Degreaser" which I cite from 8 LUG HD Truck-3/2017 magazine which they found effective in cleaning various diesel exhaust components.:goodjob: Looking at the Purple label I only saw that it contains diethylene glycol monobutyl ether and surfactants which from my school chemistry class is enough to let me know I need to wear a protective covering when using/handling this stuff, which their label recommends also.:eek7: Surfactants can be used with sodium hydroxide but I saw nothing that would indicate Purple contained sodium hydroxide which is normally associated with sink drain cleaners. I also would not recommend using drain cleaner for cleaning EGR components
. But the label did also mention to check surfaces before using. I'm not a chemist nor do I recommend any cleaner for any cleaning purpose or for cleaning any components in any application.

Note, like all magazines, they write article such as these to sell their magazines.:signs053::eek7:

I also have used brake cleaner for cleaning sensitive electronic diesel MAP sensors to some what more or less effective degree but which I found not effective for cleaning the EGR valve on my '05 Ford 6.0L PS. Sure I could scrape the valve with a Dremel grinder and use no cleaner at all! :llsweatdrop::wtf::banghead:

I just relayed an article I read in a respected diesel magazine which the reader can decide for themselves as to the relevance for any cleaning project they may want to engage in and to determine any relevance and veracity of the article to the cleaning job at bar. :eek:ccasion14:
 
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