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2015 Chevy Cruze 1.4L Turbo Low Oil Pressure and Stalling when idling

2576 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  MySonic101
Hello this is my first time posting here as I recently bought a 2015 Chevy Cruz 1.4L Turbo. I’m having a problem of rough idling and stalling when the engine seems to warm up a bit. Usually at red lights.First thing I did was changed the oil and oil filter since it looked like the previous owners didn’t do one in a while. I’ve changed the oil pressure sensor that is connected to the oil filter but still got the low oil pressure stop engine light on the dash and the stalling. I bought an oil pressure test kit and placed it where the oil pressure sensor is and tested it. The engine was at operating temperature when I did the test. While idling the oil pressure read at around 2 or 3 psi. When reviving the engine to around 3000rpm the oil pressure went up to 20 or 30 psi. Saying that, I’m not 100% I did the test right. Didn’t have the proper tools to tighten the test kit adapter so I did it by hand and I’m also a novice on these things. I’m going to try to test it again with the right tools. I’ve also noticed that the PVC valve cover (it’s called something else but you know what I mean) might be going bad. There is a like a whistling sound coming from that area. Also Whenever I pull the oil dipstick out I hear/feel a suction. Not sure if a bad PVC valve cover can cause low oil pressure/stalling while idle. These problems only occur when I run the car for a bit then come to a stop and idle. Also notice hesitation and jerking when coming to a stop. I suspect the problem can be
1. Bad Oil Pump (hope it’s not this)
2. Bad PVC Valve Cover/Vacuum Leak somewhere
Has any of you had these problems before and also how did you fix it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I had the exact same problem and performed the same oil pressure test at the sensor port. If you have the Hengst oil cooler, take notice that there is a non-return valve, small black circular valve. Located at the bottom of the oil canister that the oil filter sits against and closes this valve when the cap is screwed in. The valve has three prongs and are very fragile and can break and lodge under the seat of the valve. This in turn keeps the valve open to flow back to the oil pan thus reduces oil pressure due flow diversion. When changing the oil. Remove that valve and make certain that valve seat on the oil cooler is clean as a whistle. My car performed as yours did prior to this correction as well as one other fix. This low pressure, if left undetected for a while, could have clogged your vvt actuators. There is a youtube video describing how to remove and clean these. These actuators adjust the timing and if clogged can give the symptoms you describe. I posted this problem here before with the title of the youtube video. I'll post the name in a minute.
 

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There is a video by Auto Scholar with Mr B on YouTube. He explains the process of cleaning the actuators behind the vvt seleniods. It's titled Echotec 1.4 P0016 P0017 Try This First! If these actuators are gumed up it will affect the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
There is a video by Auto Scholar with Mr B on YouTube. He explains the process of cleaning the actuators behind the vvt seleniods. It's titled Echotec 1.4 P0016 P0017 Try This First! If these actuators are gumed up it will affect the timing.
thank you very much I’m going to check this out and get back to you. Also how is the valve supposed to be installed. All I see is the spring facing up. Is that how it’s supposed to go? It’s this one, right?
Light Font Household hardware Camera accessory Engineering
 

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That's it. The one on the right is oriented the way it goes in. Just remove the metallic shipping cover that protects the 3 holding prongs and using needle nose pliers insert into place. When installing filter, be certain the filter rotates freely in the cap placing it into the housing. If not the bottom of the filter could dislodge or **** the valve of its seat during installation.
 
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