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2016 Cruze Gen 2 Intake installation

2291 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  CruzeGen22017
Okay guys in my last post I wrote about everything in regards to the intake, and what to expect. Today I am going to write out a numbered and detailed list of steps to installing an intake on the new Cruze.

For starters, a basic flathead screw driver, flathead screw driver, and a set of torx bits as I do not remember right off hand if the MAF sensor is held in by torx bit screws or not, a towel to cover the fender, and I'd recommend a pair of gloves, or latex gloves.

Step 1- before tearing apart anything, there is a red clip on the MAF connector. Take a flat head screw driver or your finger, and lightly push up on the red clip until it is disconnected and raised up. Then remove the MAF connector and set it aside, such as on top of the engine cover. You do not need to remove the clip that holds the wiring near the engine cover just yet.

Step 2- after removing the MAF connector, use a flat head screw driver, and loosen the clamp that is on the rubber intake tube connecting to the air filter box. I recommend doing this first so you're not tugging or pulling the rubber intake tube around. You should be to slide it right off of the air filer box.

Step 3- after loosening the rubber intake tube clamp, and sliding it off the air box, there are 4 Phillips head screws that are holding the top half of the air filter box, to the bottom half. There are a bit long, and I do recommend putting them in a safe place or a ziplock bag, when you want to return the intake back to stock.

Step 4- you will need a flat head screw driver for this. There is a plastic intake tub that runs on the left side of the air filter box, to the frame. To remove this piece, there is a clip at the top left side you will need to push in, in order to remove it. After pushing this clip in, pull this plastic piece straight up. After it is disconnected from the air filter box, pull this piece towards the windshield and it will slide out of the connecting piece that is fastened to the frame.

Step 5- remove the top half of the air filter box, but do not remove the MAF sensor from the top half just yet.

Step 6- this step is optional to everyone. You can either remove the bottom half of the air filter box, which is not bolted/screwed down. There are 3 plastic clips that slide into rubber grommets. With a little force, but not too much, you can lift the bottom half of the air filter box out. You will also need to lift up and slide it towards the headlight in order to remove it. There is also a rubber hose near the headlight, that you will need to pull off of the bottom half of the air filter box. Do not worry, it is capped off at the other end.

Step 6- if you have left the stock bottom half of the air filter box where it is, you will not need the Spectre Part #9749, as it position the aftermarket air filter too high, causing the hood to not be able to shut correctly, and smash the intake filter, and cramp the stock rubber intake tube connected to the turbo. Insert the MAF sensor adaptor, which is the Spectre part #9405. Position this piece of intake tubing at a rough 35-45 degree angle towards the engine cover. This way the MAF sensor itself will be in an upright position similar to the stock position. After insert the adaptor into the rubber intake house, tighten the clamp down with your flat head screw driver. Make sure it is tight enough that it will not slide out of the rubber intake tubing.

Step 6 part 2- if you removed the bottom half of the stock air filter box, this is where you can extend the intake for a bit more cooler air. Insert the 45 degree angle intake tubing ( part #9749 ) into the rubber intake tubing. ( this is backwards from my photos, but I redid my intake to this configuration). Turn the 45 degree angle piece, so that is is aiming to the left towards the strut tower and AC lines. Tighten the clamp down with your Phillips head screw driver.
After making sure it is secure, take the 3 in rubber coupler and slide it halfway into the 45 degree intake tube. Again tighten it down and ensure it is secure. Then insert the MAF adaptor (part #9405) into the 3in coupling, and tighten it down and make sure to ensure it is secure.

Step 7- this part is a bit tricky so bare with me. Along with the MAF adaptor, #9405, there is a Chevy MAF adaptor plate you will need to modify. Using a Dremmel, grind out the plastic center. On the top of the plate there will be a 1/8in thick raised portion, which is surrounding the MAF sensor hole. You will need to grind or cut the plastic out to the raised 1/8in portion in order for the stock MAF sensor to fit in this plate. I also recommend flipping this plate over, and again vision a Dremmel, grind down the gold screws to match the flat surface of the back. Once you have completed those steps I recommend taking a rag, with some cleaner and spraying it off and wiping it down to remove any possible shavings that may be residual.

Step 8- once finishing modifying the plate, attach the plate to the MAF adaptor, (part #9405) and fasten it down with the supplied screws.

Step 9- remove the MAF sensor from the stock air filter box. And insert it into the new MAF adaptor. At this point check and ensure for fitment. As you may or may not need to use the Dremmel and grind out just a tad bit more.

Step 10- once you have the MAF sensor fitment in order and proper, you'll need to drill or self screw, two brand new screw holes into the MAF adaptor plate. I did this myself with a Phillips head screw driver and some pressure and the screws I used went in on their own. I cannot tell the length of which screw to use, but I recommend using the length you feel most safe with, for secure meant.

Step 11- once you the MAF sensor nice and secure, plug the connector back into the MAF sensor, and make sure the red clip locks into place by pushing lightly down on it.

Step 12- attach the filter (whichever you may choose) to the end of the MAF adaptor, or 45 degree elbow, and tighten down the clamp, ensuring its secure and tight.

Step 13- recheck for any loose clamps, tubing, or tubing connections.

Step 14- last but not least, you are ready to go! As I mentioned, the check engine light will come on for 1-3 days possibly more, but do not be frightened, as it will shut itself off. Now you're ready to go test it and see your own results!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is considered a "Drain" hose from what I understand from the factory. It is designed that if water was to enter the stock intake box, through the induction system from the bumper, to the stock air box, the water would exit though that drain hose attatched to the bottoms of the stock air box

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55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, and it's a code dealing with the MAF sensor. I don't know what specific code it is, but the new Cruze has a ton of air measurements throughout the intake system, and turbo intake. Primarily the MAF sensor connected to the Turbo Intake. The reason it is coming on is because when you remove the stock air intake, the MAF sensor is no longer reading the correct amount of air the factory designed for the car, the turbo, and Air/Fuel ratio and temperatures. When you introduce a seriously less restrictive air intake to the Cruze, the MAF sensor measurements are thrown out of its normal parameters, which in return is telling the ECM the temperature, the Air/Fuel ratio, and the amount of air being introduced to the turbo and car itself has significantly changed. Thus causing the parameters to fluctuate.. it seems as if the MAF adapted the new measurements on its own. The check engine light came on for a few days and then went away on its own.
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