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My 2017 Cruze Diesel with manual transmission did not come with an oil pan heater. The dealership told me it had one but in reality it did not. So after much research, I have found very little info on the 2017 Cruze turbo diesel oil pan heater. Here is what I have found.

If equipped "new" the heater is a $100 option. My local Chevy dealer service dept. Informed me it would cost $450-$500 to have one installed. The local auto parts stores said they don't make an aftermarket oil pan heater but they had a few universal kits I could use. The block on the Gen 2 diesels are aluminum. They do not make a block heater only a oil pan heater. Calling the Chevy dealer parts Dept I was able to have him explain what the part looked like... Two bolts.... Two bolts, when threaded into existing holes in the oil pan, was all it would take to install the heater. The heater cord, I was told, is specific to auto and Manual Transmission. The pre installed plastic rivets line up with the holes located in your motor compartment.

I ordered the parts through my Chevy dealer.

Oil Pan Heater part # 55597519 - $109

Heater cord for manual trans. part # 39109070 - $148

Tools used: 7mm socket, 10mm socket, 1/4" x 3/8" socket adapter, 3" extension, 3/8" socket wrench, car ramps, wheel chocks, small Tupperware to hold bolts and sockets when not in use, flattened cardboard box to lay on to stay out of the snow.

After getting the car up onto the ramps and chocking the wheels. I got under the car and realised they put a fiber board to protect the underside of the car. There are 17 - 7mm bolts that hold it to the underside. Once the bolts are removed the board will slide to the rear of the vehicle and come out. It is held in place by two tabs in the rear (external to the board) and three tabs on the front of the board that go between a plastic shroud and the frame.

Once the fiber board is removed the two holes, on the front of the oil pan, stick out like a sore thumb. The heater can be installed upside down so be sure to install it with all the surface area touching the oil pan. A good practice I use when installing any bolt is I will get it as tight as I can by hand before using a wrench on it to eliminate cross threading. These two bolts are 10mm. Once the bolts were installed I routed the heater cord, from the top, down to the heater. The cord has a collar with four locking tabs on the end that secure it in place on the heater. Make sure these are all in the down position when pushing the cord into the heater. It took a little trial and error figuring out the route to position the rivets and clips to the existing holes but nothing major. Once done, install the fiber board. The rear tabs will help hold it in place while you push the three front tabs between the frame and the plastic shroud. Once lined up, install your bolts by hand and then snug them up with the 7mm socket. Then you're done!

I don't like the fact that you have to open the hood to plug in your heater. I will be looking into a product that will eliminate this. The parts are a bit pricey but saving the money in labor charges make it worth it to me. Buying them through my dealer saves me the headache of shipping, warranties, and customer service over the phone. I my self so not trust an aftermarket stick on oil pan heater. With the temperature changes in some of the places I work, like ND, MN, the glue would fail in a season. It took me longer to roundup the tools than the actual time it took to install the heater and route the cord.

I'm posting this on my phone so I'm having trouble uploaded the pictures. When I can this week I'll upload them using the computer.
 

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Odd that this wouldn't be standard, especially on the Diesel. I don't remember it being an option on my Gen 1 diesel when I ordered, I recall it being mentioned that it was a standard addition.

Great contribution, excellent writeup. I'm sure a number of users will find this useful.
 
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