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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just took possession of a 2017 Cruze Hatch! Comfortable & quiet driving experience matches my expectations. Manual transmission, so far, not so much. Should've heeded the reviews on this point.

Any fix for these minor gripes? 1. 'Bong.. Bong.. Bong.. Bong.. ' on entry & startup. Why? Can I shut it off? I want to listen to the engine when I start the car, not bong bong bong. 2. All the exterior lights come on and stay on when I unlock & when I shut down the car. I don't like this. Can I disable? Will ask my sales rep.

I hope I'll grow to like, or at least learn how to deal with, the huge gap between 1st and 2nd. So far, don't want to lay on it hard when, e.g. rounding a city corner & having only 1200 rpm going in 2nd. I don't think it's good for break-in. Eventually, in the interest of getting there with no drama, I will try mashing the pedal hard. Or, get used to going all the way down to 1st.

The automatic 2017 Cruze I test-drove had gobs of torque at low engine speeds. Too late, I saw a post hinting that Chevy de-tuned the manual-equipped engine's torque output at lower rpms to, possibly, save the transmission? Anyone know something about that? I was counting on that super torque to redeem the wide 1-2 gap.
 

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Congrats.

1) Seatbelt on first.
2) its in vehicle settings on the radio.

They detuned the first gen manual as well, possibly to avoid knock or lugging the engine at low RPM (that'll bend rods). That generation hit max torque at 1850 in auto form; 2500 RPM in manual form. I drove it mostly below 2500 as well, but you have to stick your foot in it a ways. Wouldn't surprise me if the new one was detuned similarly.

The gear ratios - this the the Eco gearbox from the first generation Cruze. The gaps between gears are HUGE and takes some getting used to.
 

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Due to breaking an arm falling off a horse I have temporary possession of my daughter's manual 1.6T hatchback Cruze and the transmission is great, well spaced ratios and no noticeable turbo lag. I still prefer my CTD as there is no substitute for the torque, but the hatchback is still a really nice ride. We won't be getting the new Cruze hatchback in Australia, but we already have the Astra version with 1.4T and 1.6T DI engines. The sedan Cruze is coming in 2017, but as far as I know only with the 1.4T engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I have seen and still see, reports of bearing problems with the transmission in earlier MYs at mileages ~25,000 & up. Have they solved that? Or, do I need to DIY to save it with synthetic lube and overfilling?

Congrats.

1) Seatbelt on first.
2) its in vehicle settings on the radio.
Thanks, got it with the seatbelt. The lights, otoh, I couldn't find the settings for it.

They detuned the first gen manual as well, possibly to avoid knock or lugging the engine at low RPM (that'll bend rods). That generation hit max torque at 1850 in auto form; 2500 RPM in manual form. I drove it mostly below 2500 as well, but you have to stick your foot in it a ways. Wouldn't surprise me if the new one was detuned similarly.

The gear ratios - this the the Eco gearbox from the first generation Cruze. The gaps between gears are HUGE and takes some getting used to.
To avoid detonation...? The computer already has full control of the throttle, fuel, spark, (valve timing also?). Must be a weakness in the programming if it's ok to open the throttle at low revs in an automatic but not in the manual.

Or, will the computer in the AT cars permit producing big torque for a small amount of time, then will downshift if the driver doesn't let up or if speed doesn't increase (as on an uphill)? I admit, can't make me do that with a manual, so the other choice is suddenly dial back the throttle. This would gain complaints about drivability. The least bad choice may be don't open the throttle wide in the first place. Is this what's going on?

Maybe with that understanding (that high torque is only available for a short period of time at low revs) I can have the tune adjusted.
 

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Thanks, got it with the seatbelt. The lights, otoh, I couldn't find the settings for it.
Check out p 141/144 in the manual ("lighting"). You're after vehicle locator and exit lighting. I think it's just settings -> lighting.

o avoid detonation...? The computer already has full control of the throttle, fuel, spark, (valve timing also?). Must be a weakness in the programming if it's ok to open the throttle at low revs in an automatic but not in the manual.
Hmm, good point. Technically, you could lock the 1st gen autos in gear as well. You can feel the timing/boost pull quite noticeably on the manual there, and feel it start to ramp up @ 2000 RPM, and a surge of power @ 2500. As the car DOES control all of that, not really sure why the drastically different mapping then.

Too much torque at low revs, even for an instant, could be detrimental if that was what they were trying to avoid. So I think the engine is built to withstand that where they have it programmed to - my auto does like to lug itself down a lot (it does have forged rods).
 

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The manual transmission bearing issues in the Gen 1 Cruze were the result of too little synchromesh fluid in the system. GM upped the spec from 2 to 2.4 qts about a year and a half ago to resolve this. The Gen 2 has a different MT so we can only hope they got the fluid quantity correct.
 

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The manual transmission bearing issues in the Gen 1 Cruze were the result of too little synchromesh fluid in the system. GM upped the spec from 2 to 2.4 qts about a year and a half ago to resolve this. The Gen 2 has a different MT so we can only hope they got the fluid quantity correct.
MT is completely carry-over from the Cruze Eco. Nothing besides the clutch friction plate was changed along the production run AFAIK. GM did change the fill capacity and makeup of the transmission fluid several times, though.
 

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MT is completely carry-over from the Cruze Eco. Nothing besides the clutch friction plate was changed along the production run AFAIK. GM did change the fill capacity and makeup of the transmission fluid several times, though.
That would explain why I had no shift timing issues when I test drove a 2016 LT MT. The clutch felt like it had a mile wide friction zone as opposed to a friction point.
 

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All the exterior lights come on and stay on when I unlock & when I shut down the car. I don't like this. Can I disable?
Based on the G1 Cruze, I think there's two issues here. I'm sure the lights coming on when unlocked can be programmed. Once you start the car, I'd imagine it's the auto-lights function. They'll come on if it's too dark (like in a garage). They will turn off once you get into daylight. That you're stuck with. Considering the number of cars I see running around at night with only DRL or no lights at all, I wish more cars were like the Cruze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This morning, in lightly traveled city streets, was winding engine to about 3000 before selecting the next gear. Resulted in 1500 rpm, workable torque there. Then this afternoon, took a longish drive. Have figured out two rates of acceleration, either 'slow' or 'fast'. Either one requires a long wait for the engine to coast down between gears. Part of the drive was 70-80 mph rural freeway. Very pleasant and serene vs. my former transport appliance. Not a sports car, but that's ok, I can get used to this. Also figured out the lights. Thanks for your replies!
 

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I noticed a fairly substantial change in the engine behavior when I switched to 93 octane fuel. The engine doesn't complain as much when I tried to gain speed at low rpm, and I don't have to downshift to a lower gear going up hills. If you aren't already, I would give 3-4 tanks of premium top tier gas a try and see how you feel about it.

The Cruze has engine timing tables for both 87 and 93. If it senses knock it will retard the timing, and adjust to the 87 timing. After you run 93 for awhile the computer switches to the premium tune. Higher octane fuel resists pre-detonation, and with forced induction and the tendency for high intake temperatures, the cruze is a candidate for benefiting from 93.
 

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I noticed a fairly substantial change in the engine behavior when I switched to 93 octane fuel. The engine doesn't complain as much when I tried to gain speed at low rpm, and I don't have to downshift to a lower gear going up hills. If you aren't already, I would give 3-4 tanks of premium top tier gas a try and see how you feel about it.

The Cruze has engine timing tables for both 87 and 93
. If it senses knock it will retard the timing, and adjust to the 87 timing. After you run 93 for awhile the computer switches to the premium tune. Higher octane fuel resists pre-detonation, and with forced induction and the tendency for high intake temperatures, the cruze is a candidate for benefiting from 93.
Has anyone requested a build sheet of a 2nd gen from Chevy Customer Care to see if the 91 KRD RPO is still there?
 

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Has anyone requested a build sheet of a 2nd gen from Chevy Customer Care to see if the 91 KRD RPO is still there?
I can't even tell a difference in octanes on this engine. It runs the same on anything. Wondering if the MPG is any different on premium.
 

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I can't even tell a difference in octanes on this engine. It runs the same on anything. Wondering if the MPG is any different on premium.
It's possible that the addition of DI has something to do with it, along with having an aluminum block (better heat dissipation) - because it runs half a point higher compression ration (10.0 vs 9.5).
 
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It's possible that the addition of DI has something to do with it, along with having an aluminum block (better heat dissipation) - because it runs half a point higher compression ration (10.0 vs 9.5).
I think DI has a lot to do with it. The Mazda SkyActiv, for instance, runs some crazy high compression ratios without a turbo on 87 oct.

The old 1.4T was constantly battling the knock sensors, and it did seem to be an issue GM noticed as well since they changed the spark plug heat range spec and ECU calibration several times (and some of us saw increased drivability with even different plugs yet).
 

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I think DI has a lot to do with it. The Mazda SkyActiv, for instance, runs some crazy high compression ratios without a turbo on 87 oct.

The old 1.4T was constantly battling the knock sensors, and it did seem to be an issue GM noticed as well since they changed the spark plug heat range spec and ECU calibration several times (and some of us saw increased drivability with even different plugs yet).
Yeah. While the block did change from cast iron to aluminum - where you generally see the ability to increase compression ratio (or advance timing some if you're not messing with internals) is by switching to aluminum heads, since that's where most/all of the heat from combustion is created/retained. The quicker you can dissipate, the less potential there is for knock - which is why aluminum helps there. The block doesn't really have too much of an affect there, and heads have been aluminum for quite some time now.

So yes, definitely the DI - and probably better use of VVT, EGR, etc. Anyway - it's good they did that. But it would be interesting to see if it responds, at all, to 93 octane. I wouldn't be surprised if it does.
 

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But it would be interesting to see if it responds, at all, to 93 octane. I wouldn't be surprised if it does.
I've tried 2 tanks so far. And 89, and 87. There *might* be a small bit more low end on the higher octanes, but I really can't tell. It's a torquey little engine pretty much anywhere in the rev range for me.

I'm thinking the octane would have the best chance of showing a difference (on a stock tune) in summer. They also didn't sandwich the intercooler between the condensor & radiator in these, so THAT should help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
More questions.

*Can I get a cheap metal key to unlock the door with, in case I leave the 'real' key inside the car and lock it? (I don't have the fancy key-in-pocket entry in my car).

I got the lights to stop coming on when I exit the car. Now,...

*How to stop the lights from all coming on when I enter the car?

*How to disable auto-on lights by default? (So I don't have to twist the knob first when I don't want them.)

*How to stop the doors from auto-locking when I get under way?

*How to stop all the gauges from sweeping around when I start it? (I guess this doesn't bother me that much).

Long ago, I vowed to not buy a GM. For their ads denigrating bicyclists. For all the early problems my parents had with their GMs going back to the time we were stranded on the Turnpike when I was 1 year old (and the car was about the same age), and for all the statistics and anecdotes that GM doesn't get it in this regard. And, for these 'Car Is Smarter Than You' helpful (but not really) things!

Yet, finally, this is a GM car that's competitive as a package with other cars in the class. Its strong points cover the things I most wanted. An element of nostalgia; I liked the overall character of the cars my parents owned, aside from the problems. Wanting to support USA manufacturing, even if this is made in Mexico, there's a good amount of USA content, I guess (does GM game the 'content' statistic?). So, here I am.
 

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*Can I get a cheap metal key to unlock the door with, in case I leave the 'real' key inside the car and lock it? (I don't have the fancy key-in-pocket entry in my car).
Is there even a key hole on the new ones?

*How to disable auto-on lights by default? (So I don't have to twist the knob first when I don't want them.)
Can't.

*How to stop all the gauges from sweeping around when I start it? (I guess this doesn't bother me that much).
Can't.

*How to stop the doors from auto-locking when I get under way?
Can't. "This feature cannot be disabled".

*How to stop the lights from all coming on when I enter the car?
Vehicle locator lighting in "lighting" in settings on radio.
 

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More questions.

*Can I get a cheap metal key to unlock the door with, in case I leave the 'real' key inside the car and lock it? (I don't have the fancy key-in-pocket entry in my car).

I got the lights to stop coming on when I exit the car. Now,...

*How to stop the lights from all coming on when I enter the car?
Assuming you're referring to the interior lights I think you can completely turn them off with the dome switch (assuming GM hasn't removed it)

*How to disable auto-on lights by default? (So I don't have to twist the knob first when I don't want them.)
Not possible without rewiring the lights. I believe this is a NHTSA safety rule now.

*How to stop the doors from auto-locking when I get under way?
Again, this is an NHTSA safety rule. However, pulling on the interior door handle twice will unlock and open the door when the car isn't moving. In the rear doors this works as long as the child safety lock isn't engaged.

*How to stop all the gauges from sweeping around when I start it? (I guess this doesn't bother me that much).
This is part of the car's POST (Power On Self Test). Remember, these cars are really computers on wheels and they test all the peripherals at power on, including the instrument cluster.
 
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