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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the forum, just bought a hatchback so this seemed like a good place to get some discussion and exchange of ideas going.

I have a premier with Bose, and plan on adding an aftermarket amplifier and sub. I have done a ton of research on adding a sub to GM bose systems in general, and the problems encountered with active noise cancellation (ANC); these are the topics I would like to start with and see if anyone can add some insights.

First: I have an older sub/amp setup from my last car I will be using to test before buying anything new. The amp is a Kenwood 8150d with high level inputs and sensing turn on. For newbs: this means you can tap into factory speaker wires and the amp will auto turn-on when it detects music is playing. No need for seperate LOC converter or amp remote turn-on wire.

Everything i have read says that bose systems output a digital signal from the headunit to factory amp, so you have to tap a high level speaker wire. My plan is to tap the factory subwoofer wires located next to the spare tire. More details on this in my next post. I have pics from some disassembly I did today.

Problems others have had with this method are almost always due to ANC. So far, i cant find firm evidence that these cars have ANC. A google search turns up sporadic references to this being included in the cruze, but most accounds are from gm trucks, malibu, buick crossover, and small chevy suv (forgot names). The gm systems almost always seem to use three microphones in the headliner, but i dont see any in the cruze except for the voice command mic beside maplight. Anyone have comments on cruze ANC?

More to follow... hard to type on phone


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I did some scouting today. Here is a pic of the bose subwoofer box in hatch with spare tire removed.


I removed the subwoofer box but forgot to snap a pic. The term subwoofer should be used loosely here, since it is only a 5-6" speaker. The leads to it are at the grey plug at far left edge of picture above, just to the left of the corner of the amp. There are 4 wires so assume it is a dual voice coil speaker. Removed the plug and tested with multimeter, got 2.5 ohms on each pair with my uncalibrated meter. Oddly, the pairs are as follows: solid red and solid green, second pair is white w/ red stripe, white /w green stripe. My plan will be to just tap one pair for the aftermarket amp.

On the subject of ANC, notice at the very top edge of picture, center, the small black rectangle with a wire lead. It is right behind the rear seat. I unclipped this to check it out, and look at the bottom:


That is the side normally facing the floor, and oddly reminds me of a guitar pickup. Only two wires connected to it. I hope i am wrong, but am suspicious this is some sort of magnetic pickup to capture road noise for ANC.

I am planning to do the install tomorrow and will post back with the results. Should be super easy with the battery and speaker source right there in the trunk together.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why do you hope it's not a magnetic pickup for ANC?
Because based on what I have read, ANC would definently have to be disabled to keep it from interfering with an aftermarket amp + sub. I dont have a problem with disabling it, but for right now i have no idea how to do that. I am still holding out hope that the feature was not included on this car.




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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Pretty sure ANC is standard on the Cruze.

And why worry - just leave this system intact and add a separate sub and amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pretty sure ANC is standard on the Cruze.

And why worry - just leave this system intact and add a separate sub and amp.
Thats what I am going to try, but if you are correct about ANC being a standard feature, it will not work - or rather it will work but will also be trying to play the noise canceling frequencies through the new subwoofer. Since it is way larger with increased gain, it will just sound like annoying humming.

There are many accounts of this happening across the web, from various manufacturers. I have seen a lot from Honda accord owners. It seems all the OEMs are doing this now, but GM never includes a button or software setting to disable it. This is why people are resorting to cutting the microphone wires.


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If you take your feed from the "sub", I would think that is not affected by the ANC - only the regular speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Completed my install, and so far so good. I srated the car and closed doors with engine running. No sign of weird sounds due to ANC. I havent driven it yet though so i will see how it does tomorrow on my daily commute. Here are some pics of what i did in case anyone is interested:



Tapped into the red and green sub wires using posi-tap connectors. Had no idea about the polarity so I just guessed...turns out I guessed wrong. Sound was obviously screwed up when i finished so i reversed them. Red is negative and green is positive.



Tied power and ground directly to battery on some handy bolts.



Sub box is way too big for this hatch. Going to look for a ported single sub box to save some space.


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Looks good! I had those Thunder 6000s in my Cavalier - now that it's wrecked, they're sitting in my basement.



I also have a 10" Thunder 6000 sub as part of my desktop computer's surround sound (being driven by a Crown d150a Series II amp).

Good work!

Your picture is making me reconsider putting my MTXs into my Volt, as it is a hatch as well. I have the Bose audio system in that as well, so I may just utilize the factory 8" enclosure to keep it all nice and clean. I'm assuming it has ANC, so it'll be interesting to see how yours handles the sub with ANC.
 

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So glad I found this. I bought a 16 cruze premier with the bose system. Which mine didn't come with the sub. I installed 2 Rockford 12" and a Rockford prime 500 watt 2ohm amp. For some reason I cannot get it to sound right. I'm really thinking there is anc in the car. I'm running high level inputs right now from the rear deck speakers. and using a audio sensing relay for the power on wire. but like I said I cannot get this thing tuned in right and it sounds way different driving down the road. its almost like something is turning down the subs.
 

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I did some scouting today. Here is a pic of the bose subwoofer box in hatch with spare tire removed.


I removed the subwoofer box but forgot to snap a pic. The term subwoofer should be used loosely here, since it is only a 5-6" speaker. The leads to it are at the grey plug at far left edge of picture above, just to the left of the corner of the amp. There are 4 wires so assume it is a dual voice coil speaker. Removed the plug and tested with multimeter, got 2.5 ohms on each pair with my uncalibrated meter. Oddly, the pairs are as follows: solid red and solid green, second pair is white w/ red stripe, white /w green stripe. My plan will be to just tap one pair for the aftermarket amp.

On the subject of ANC, notice at the very top edge of picture, center, the small black rectangle with a wire lead. It is right behind the rear seat. I unclipped this to check it out, and look at the bottom:


That is the side normally facing the floor, and oddly reminds me of a guitar pickup. Only two wires connected to it. I hope i am wrong, but am suspicious this is some sort of magnetic pickup to capture road noise for ANC.

I am planning to do the install tomorrow and will post back with the results. Should be super easy with the battery and speaker source right there in the trunk together.


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I actually like the design of that bose enclosure and might copy it for a single 8" in my premier without Bose. Not looking for anything spectacular, just improved SQ overall. Thanks for the pic.
 

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OP, do you feel like you're getting full bass range to your woofers by tapping into the bose woofer output?

The reason I ask is I tapped into my rear speaker outputs to feed signal to my amp and I feel like the Bose amp is doing a lot of filtering of the audio before sending the signal to the rear speakers.

I'm considering moving the amp inputs to the Bose woofer output wires.

Thanks.
 

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Off topic, but are either of those mini fuses suitable for a remote turn on lead add a circuit? Looking at the under-hood fuse box I couldn't identify any accessory fuse that was ignition on. I know you have a signal sensing amp, but where would you suggest adding a remote turn on lead?
 

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Off topic, but are either of those mini fuses suitable for a remote turn on lead add a circuit? Looking at the under-hood fuse box I couldn't identify any accessory fuse that was ignition on. I know you have a signal sensing amp, but where would you suggest adding a remote turn on lead?
I'd post up some information but I have no idea what year or body style you have.

My amp didn't need a signal input for power. It auto senses the high level inputs and turns on and off when needed.

As far as my previous question. I moved my high level inputs to the Bose sub instead of the rear door speakers.

Yup, the Bose was definitely cutting out signal to those speakers once the frequency went much below ~50Hz. I verified this with test frequencies.

After moving the leads to the woofer I now have much more range to the amp. Sounds much better.
 

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As i understand most new stock audio systems cut bass frequencies to the cheap stock speakers. If you check into audiocontrol processors they take care of this. I just ordered the dt-608 which may be overkill for a lot of you but the functionality and future expandability makes it worthwhile for what I plan on doing with my install
 

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Any update on this? I'm wanting to add a single 10" to my '17 hatch with Bose as well. The stock sub is OK but it lacks when you turn the volume up
 

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Getting ready to install in my 2019, I don't suppose you have a pic of the full connector as I would like to build a T harness.


Thanks.
 
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