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21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
Wanted to do some follow up to this topic. A year ago I started a thread asking questions regarding stereo installation, but got very little useful input. So after lots of searching and going through a few different products, here's what I've found:
(I'm posting this with the hope that it will help someone looking to upgrade their stereo. This is only what I did, and I'm not pushing any particular products. Mainly, it's what I found on sale or what I found that works for this car.)

Went with Kicker 6.5" door speaker upgrades all the way around with Rockford Fosgate tweeter upgrades in the dash; crossed over from the front door speakers.
The 6x9's that Bose used for the rear deck subs were removed and I have 2-JL Audio 12W6's in the trunk.
Upgrades were straight forward. Once you get the door panels off it's plug and play. I ordered Metra speaker harness connectors for all the doors so I wouldn't have to cut any harness wires.
The tweeters were crossed over via the front door speakers, with the crossovers tucked in the side dash panel. Once again, all wires came with the set so no harness cutting required.

Used an AudioControl LC7i and used the following to find wires to use for the high level input:

Left Front Speaker - With Amp Blue - Brown/Blue +,- Amplifier in trunk right side, gray 8 pin plug, pins 3 - 7
Right Front Speaker - With Amp Yellow - Yellow/Black +,- Amplifier in trunk right side, gray 8 pin plug, pins 2 - 6
Left Rear Speaker - With Amp Green - Green/Black +,- Amplifier in trunk right side, green 16 pin plug, pins 7 - 15
Right Rear Speaker - With Amp White - Blue/Black +,- Amplifier in trunk right side, green 16 pin plug, pins 6 - 14
Center Channel - With Amp Yellow/White - Blue/Yellow +,- Amplifier in trunk right side, green 16 pin plug, pins 5 - 13
Subwoofer - With Amp Blue/Gray - Green/Black (L); Green/Violet - Gray/Black (R) +,- Amplifier in trunk right side, gray 8 pin plug, pins 1 - 5 (L); green 16 pin plug, pins 16 - 8 (R)

With the AudioControl LC7i, you have high level inputs for Front (L+R), Rear(L+R) and Sub (L+R) (6 Channels of Total Input)
On the back side of the LC7i there are 3 sets of RCA outputs. 2 sets for a 4 channel amp and 1 pair for a monoblock Sub amp.

Went with a Kicker Key 180.4 four channel amp to push the upgrades in the doors and a Kicker KXA 800.1 for the subs.
I also left the factory amp connected, just so I didn't have to go through more brain damage of having to find all the wires for the sensors. I just unpinned the speaker wires from the harness plug once I verified them with a tone generator.
In the area of the trunk where the factory amp resides, I built a custom bracket out of ABS and mounted all three amps; and they all fit behind the factory cover. The LC7i is mounted to the back deck in the area between where the two 6x9 subs were.

  • Used the Front (L+R) speaker outputs FROM THE AMPLIFIER to connect to the Main Inputs on the LC7i. (I unpinned these wires from the harness and landed them directly onto the LC7i)
  • Used the Rear (L+R) speaker outputs FROM THE AMPLIFIER to connect to the Channel 2 inputs on the LC7i. (I unpinned these wires from the harness and landed them directly onto the LC7i)
  • Used the leads that connected the rear deck sub speakers, and purchased the Metra speaker harness connectors to plug into the connection, removed the spade connectors on the ends, and landed them directly on the LC7i.
The 4 channel Kicker Key has 4 RCA inputs and the Kicker KXA has 2 RCA inputs.
LOC (Line Output Converter) NOTE The LC7i has Accubass which will alleviate the bass roll off that Chevy uses to protect these garbage speakers that they install.
You'll turn up the threshold at the point where the bass falls out as you are turning the radio up; then turn up the level to where you want your bass. I mention because it alleviates a massive headache that Chevy created.
Once you go through the process of level matching your amps to the factory stereo, and setting your amplifier gains you will be good to go.

Anyone familiar with a stereo installation knows you need Power, Ground and Remote Power.
Since the battery is in the trunk it makes it really easy to do. I used 2 sets of fuses: (1 at the battery, and 2 at the distribution block that powered the amps and the LC7i) this was run under the floor mat in the spare tire well. Used a couple of different methods to attach the fuse blocks.
The LC7i has a remote output to turn on your amps, so you don't have to tap the fuse box, the amplifier, or some other method to get remote power to your amps.
There is a factory ground stud on the wheel well between the radio and the amp that you can use for ground.

Had previously purchased some AXXESS and AMPRO products that totally sucked and left the system without various sensors and chimes. The only useful thing that I can say about the AMPRO was that it allowed you to turn down the door chime to almost non-existent which is nice. This is above and beyond the nonsense that is on the stereo menu, and without having to deal with the clowns at the dealership that will feign ignorance that the chimes can be reduced to almost nothing.
No matter how you do it (without having to install other speakers) you may need to turn that chime level down. It will be irritating as all heck. Adjustment of the volume is done at the radio not the amplifier.

Hope this helps.

21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Do you have any pics of the stock amp harness modifications? Looking to do this soon
No pics, but I can upload at a later time. Use the APH GM-02 harness. You can get them from Amazon and it is a set of 3 T-harnesses. You will only need 2. The 8 pin and 16 pin.
No modifications to the stock harness necessary. It's plug and play.
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