Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all!

I have a 2011 LTZ in which the a/c compressor clutch just failed. The car has around 120k miles so I plan to overhaul the a/c system and wanted to run my plans by you guys to make sure I am ordering the correct pats and not missing any steps.

-I have a local shop that will discharge the system of the R134a for me for free because I plan to have them charge the system once everything is installed.

A/C system Parts: All parts have been sourced on Rock Auto

-A/C Compressor - ACDELCO 1522253 {#13271268, 13395695, 1522209}
-
A/C Expansion Valve - FOUR SEASONS 39368
-
A/C Condensor -TYC 3794 {#13267649, 22869501, GM3030285} **This includes the receiver drier/desiccant tube**
-A/C System O-ring, Seals, Gaskets Kit -GPD 1321337 {#MT2741}

If anyone can confirm these are the correct parts and that I am not missing anything it would be greatly appreciated! I tried to find a write up in the how-to section but was unsuccessful, thank you all in advance for any advice you can give me!


Here's a picture of the clutch

 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
17,353 Posts
There's a spec for PAG oil under the hood of the car somewhere. I'm sure the shop will take care of that for you.

If you don't have the A/C condenser rock shield (it's a plastic guard, basically) on your car - I believe most 2011's didn't - now would be as good a time to do it as any. Lots of condensers were taken out by rocks early on.

Otherwise, I think you're good.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,794 Posts
Didn't know that there was a clutch on the compressor on these models.
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
17,353 Posts
Didn't know that there was a clutch on the compressor on these models.
Yeah, there's still one on the front to engage or disengage from the drive belt. It regulates pressure through displacement internally rather than clutching on/off like older systems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thank you for the welcome!

Great idea on adding the condenser guard!

As for the PAG oil, is this something added directly to the compressor before it's attached to the car or will an A/C shop add it during the recharge process?

Here is a picture of the clutch side of the compressor. The a/c was functioning completely fine until one day it just snapped in three places...

 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
Al Bore started all this, DuPont just received a patent on R-134a, claimed CFC's were depleting the ozone layer over dark Ant-Arctic, but was never proven. No mention that only about 4% of the total CFC production was used for all refrigeration, it intended purpose.

Other 96% was used for all open air applications, cleaning and spray cans for one. R-12 used mineral oil that is not hygroscopic, PAG is like a woman's facial cream. Simple tube and fin condensers were out, could be cleaned and were practically bullet proof. Replaced by parallel flow aluminum, can't clean them, throwaway. 50 cent Schrader valve was replaced with a quick coupler with a large diaphragm that would never seat properly. Had, to replace the entire line.

Metal service caps with neoprene seals were replaced by cheap plastic. While very dangerous leaded fuel had a 20 year phase out, R-12 was done overnight. And the expense for conversion to R-134a was put at the expense of the consumer.

To make this brief, everything in an R-134a system is throwaway, can still buy R-12 in the USA, but the price went from 30 cents a pound to 80 bucks. If you convert an R-134a system to R-12, would be in for a $25,000.00 fine.

If an R-134a system is opened, only correct way to do this is to completely flush the system out, draw a deep vacuum then inject the correct amount of PAG oil. Trying to find an honest shop is like trying to find a needle in a hay stack.

But what is the problem with yours, if the clutch gap exceeds 10 mils, won't engage. Simple repair, compressor runs all the time, variable displacement, controlled by the BCM that has code stored in flashram, this could also be your problem. All mechanical pressure sensors was replaced by a thermistor, this can be your problem. AC guys I met don't know a thing about electronics. Know some people that laid out 2,000 bucks, had to pay it, but were no better off.

While HFC's are suppose to be environmentally friendly, still a $25,000 fine if you release it, but also found HFC's in air horns, and in a can to clean your keyboard, so much for our government.

Seeing a lot of these DIY cans of R-134a on store shelves, really stupid, played with one, that single gauge was 10 psi, with variable displacement, only correct way to charge these things is by weight. Pressures are all over the place. Get very little cooling at 70*F, but a lot of it at 100*F. Good for fuel economy, but very complicated.

Were far more reliable when the compressor was mounted on top of the engine, now way down there exposed to road salt. Engine undercover sure helped, when they wanted to butcher mind, told them to give me a ten year warranty on the compressor. Just replied, leave it, volunteer recall anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, theoretically can I open the system and replace the a/c compressor, condenser, desiccant tube, and expansion valve. Then take it to a shops and have them evacuate and charge the system as well as add in the PAG oil. Or is the oil something I add to the compressor before the install?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
After a flush, dip vacuum, PAG should be injected in, only from a metal sealed bottle. But only if you want your system to last. Moisture with PAG forms an acid that can eat up your internals from the inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bump!!!!


So, theoretically can I open the system and replace the a/c compressor, condenser, desiccant tube, and expansion valve. Then take it to a shops and have them evacuate and charge the system as well as add in the PAG oil. Or is the oil something I add to the compressor before the install?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,535 Posts
You can exchange parts in advance with the exception of the drier. This is to be changed immediately before evacuation takes place.

The drier is a desiccant load (like those packets that are boxed with electrical equipment) and will begin drawing moisture from the air the moment it is removed from its packaging. Exposure exceeding about a hour for the most part, kills it.

I recommend you discuss your plans of action with the shop that will be performing the evacuation and recharge and let them tell you what condition of re-assembly they expect.
I suspect they will want to handle the PAG as well.

Rob


BTW.....you really are 'overcooking' this repair from a part replacement standpoint.
Your compressor clutch failed.....the system, from a function standpoint, is still fully sealed.
Agreed, that on earlier systems the clutch would have been serviceable and recharging would not have been required.
All it requires is a replacement compressor, a drier, and associated seals with PAG.
The PAG is easy since no internal failure occured.......you drain the removed compressor oil into a graduated cup and add the same amount of oil back into the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you so much for the help, Rob!

I will give my shop a call in the morning tomorrow to discuss how they want to handle it.

I agree on "overcooking" the repair, but I figured since a condenser and expansion valve are relatively cheap (under 100 bucks) would it be worth replacing since the system will already be open to replace the compressor?

Lastly, I wish I could just replace the a/c clutch, it's too bad they are no longer serviceable. Would it be worth attempting to weld back together the clutch where it broke? Or is this just a stupid idea?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,535 Posts
The plates that failed are spring steel.....welding is not a option.

This may be too late to ask but are you certain GM does not market a stand alone clutch?
Consider a phone call with your VIN# at the ready just to verify.

Rob
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
If its just the clutch that fail a lot depends on what's wrong with, from years of experience cost almost as much for the clutch as for a rebuilt compressor with a new clutch on it.

Most common problem is excessive gap, Cruze is using shims, gap should be in the 10 mil range, with wear, and as magnetic flux decreases by the square of the distance, double the distance, only a quarter of the magnetic force. Cure is to remove the clutch plate, and remove a shim.

Worn faces can be cleaned on a machine tool lathe. Has a clutch coil, random wound magnet wire, typical draw is about 4 amperes. If shorted turns, applying 12 V to the coil with an ammeter in series, the current should decrease as it warms up. But if it increases, getting shorted turns that decreases the magnetic force.

Heck I just measure the gauge of the wire, have a turns counter, unwinding to get the number of turns and use new magnet wire.

Other problem is that double roll ball bearing, what I call yet another limited lubricated bearing. Pop it out of the housing, pop off the seals, soak it in solvent. If the balls and races look good, repack it with Wolf's red high temperature wheel bearing grease, this stuff last forever. But a lot depends on the cage used to space the balls. Some idiots use plastic, couldn't have selected a worse material, ball bearing has a number on it, can do a net search with that number.

Canada, USA, or Japan is perfectly fine, but if made in China, forget it. Better retainers are welded steel, best is riveted.

Could try ackits for a new clutch, ask for Tim, tell them Nick sent you.

Some of the newer bearing are peened in, okay when new, but that cast iron gets like glass with age. Just drill three countersunk holes, tap them, and use flat head screws with the edges spaced to catch the bearing.

Really can't say much about Four Seasons, compressor rebuilding is really a tight market, talk about top secret. Cheapest compressor with a clutch on it is from rockauto.com for 250 bucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you all for the advice! Took the plunge and ordered parts, also have a good plan worked out with a very knowledgable/trustworthy shop on the evacuation/recharging aspect of this.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top