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Al Bore started all this, DuPont just received a patent on R-134a, claimed CFC's were depleting the ozone layer over dark Ant-Arctic, but was never proven. No mention that only about 4% of the total CFC production was used for all refrigeration, it intended purpose.

Other 96% was used for all open air applications, cleaning and spray cans for one. R-12 used mineral oil that is not hygroscopic, PAG is like a woman's facial cream. Simple tube and fin condensers were out, could be cleaned and were practically bullet proof. Replaced by parallel flow aluminum, can't clean them, throwaway. 50 cent Schrader valve was replaced with a quick coupler with a large diaphragm that would never seat properly. Had, to replace the entire line.

Metal service caps with neoprene seals were replaced by cheap plastic. While very dangerous leaded fuel had a 20 year phase out, R-12 was done overnight. And the expense for conversion to R-134a was put at the expense of the consumer.

To make this brief, everything in an R-134a system is throwaway, can still buy R-12 in the USA, but the price went from 30 cents a pound to 80 bucks. If you convert an R-134a system to R-12, would be in for a $25,000.00 fine.

If an R-134a system is opened, only correct way to do this is to completely flush the system out, draw a deep vacuum then inject the correct amount of PAG oil. Trying to find an honest shop is like trying to find a needle in a hay stack.

But what is the problem with yours, if the clutch gap exceeds 10 mils, won't engage. Simple repair, compressor runs all the time, variable displacement, controlled by the BCM that has code stored in flashram, this could also be your problem. All mechanical pressure sensors was replaced by a thermistor, this can be your problem. AC guys I met don't know a thing about electronics. Know some people that laid out 2,000 bucks, had to pay it, but were no better off.

While HFC's are suppose to be environmentally friendly, still a $25,000 fine if you release it, but also found HFC's in air horns, and in a can to clean your keyboard, so much for our government.

Seeing a lot of these DIY cans of R-134a on store shelves, really stupid, played with one, that single gauge was 10 psi, with variable displacement, only correct way to charge these things is by weight. Pressures are all over the place. Get very little cooling at 70*F, but a lot of it at 100*F. Good for fuel economy, but very complicated.

Were far more reliable when the compressor was mounted on top of the engine, now way down there exposed to road salt. Engine undercover sure helped, when they wanted to butcher mind, told them to give me a ten year warranty on the compressor. Just replied, leave it, volunteer recall anyway.
 

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After a flush, dip vacuum, PAG should be injected in, only from a metal sealed bottle. But only if you want your system to last. Moisture with PAG forms an acid that can eat up your internals from the inside.
 

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If its just the clutch that fail a lot depends on what's wrong with, from years of experience cost almost as much for the clutch as for a rebuilt compressor with a new clutch on it.

Most common problem is excessive gap, Cruze is using shims, gap should be in the 10 mil range, with wear, and as magnetic flux decreases by the square of the distance, double the distance, only a quarter of the magnetic force. Cure is to remove the clutch plate, and remove a shim.

Worn faces can be cleaned on a machine tool lathe. Has a clutch coil, random wound magnet wire, typical draw is about 4 amperes. If shorted turns, applying 12 V to the coil with an ammeter in series, the current should decrease as it warms up. But if it increases, getting shorted turns that decreases the magnetic force.

Heck I just measure the gauge of the wire, have a turns counter, unwinding to get the number of turns and use new magnet wire.

Other problem is that double roll ball bearing, what I call yet another limited lubricated bearing. Pop it out of the housing, pop off the seals, soak it in solvent. If the balls and races look good, repack it with Wolf's red high temperature wheel bearing grease, this stuff last forever. But a lot depends on the cage used to space the balls. Some idiots use plastic, couldn't have selected a worse material, ball bearing has a number on it, can do a net search with that number.

Canada, USA, or Japan is perfectly fine, but if made in China, forget it. Better retainers are welded steel, best is riveted.

Could try ackits for a new clutch, ask for Tim, tell them Nick sent you.

Some of the newer bearing are peened in, okay when new, but that cast iron gets like glass with age. Just drill three countersunk holes, tap them, and use flat head screws with the edges spaced to catch the bearing.

Really can't say much about Four Seasons, compressor rebuilding is really a tight market, talk about top secret. Cheapest compressor with a clutch on it is from rockauto.com for 250 bucks.
 
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