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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It would seem like the only reason I come here is to post negative stories about my Cruze. Well, that's the truth. I stopped coming here with happy stories of my Cruze because the car just isn't making me happy anymore. I have to worry whether it'll get me back and forth from work.

This morning I started my car at 7am as I usually do to let it warm up from the -10 degree chill we had at night. At 7:20 I get in my car and start my normal drive to work. I stop at the gas station to get a sandwich and my Amp Energy Drink and on the way back to my car I hear a "putting". "Putt..putt...putt" goes the Cruze. I put my ear closer to the driver's side tire to get a better listen and it's coming from somewhere in the engine bay. I put the car in drive and it's jumping without having any pressure applied to the gas pedal. "Jump..jump...jump" out of the gas station parking lot it goes.

I continue my drive, as the vehicle is not giving me any other indication that it's having issues, and I chalked the putting up to the car being cold and struggling with the super cold air it's receiving. I hop on the highway and the car is revving VERY high, 4,500 RPMs before it shifts to the next higher gear. I get up to about 60 MPH and the car has a lack of power. "Oh no" I thought..This car is going to leave me stranded on the side of the highway in -10 degree temperature.

As I "cruze" down the highway screaming like a wild banshee with my car at 4,500 RPMs in 5th gear driving 65MPH down 75S towards the Dayton Mall I think to myself, "Boy do I regret buying this car."

Hopefully Tuesday when I drop my car off for the 7th time at the dealership in the 10 months I've owned this car they can assist me as I only have 4,200 miles left on my 100k power train warranty.

Until the next time my car goes to the shop, I bid you adieu.
 

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That sucks man.


Sent from the sexy electrician
 

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When the engine is cold it has a tendency to hold gears longer I assume to help warm things up more quickly. If you get to highway speeds and its still in 5th gear you have two options, lift your foot slightly to cause the car to up shift or use manual mode to shift to 6th gear.

This behavior seems worse when the car is really cold, as the torque converter doesn't lock up until a certain trans fluid temp is reached. That means once your going highway speeds it will be running about 500RPM above what ever your used to for the selected gear.

The lack of power you feel I notice in my car whenever its below zero F. Never looked but seems the ECU might be not commanding as much boost when cold to protect the engine? Cold weather does change the barometric pressure so this for sure will have an effect on what the ECU decided to do. This is most noticeable ramping onto a highway when your going 0-75mph(seems to take much longer than usual).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That would explain it, but certainly is confusing considering the temperature here has been in the negatives for the past couple of days and has never shown these symptoms before today. I even drove it last night in negative temperature to go get pizza without warming it up and it was running in tip top shape. Now it runs like it has no boost.
 

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Its weird, when its below zero F with a cold engine or warm around the city my car feels pretty much normal. I only notice there being seemingly less power when having to get up to highway speeds. Strange though on hills at highway speed the car seems to not be lacking power at all and levels hills with ease still.


EDIT: I assume everything is good still since there is no CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its weird, when its below zero F with a cold engine or warm around the city my car feels pretty much normal. I only notice there being seemingly less power when having to get up to highway speeds. Strange though on hills at highway speed the car seems to not be lacking power at all and levels hills with ease still.


EDIT: I assume everything is good still since there is no CEL.
In June after 2 months of owning my vehicle it was doing the same thing and I took it into the shop and they said that the 1/4 and the 2/6 transmission clutches were "burned up". Now it's having similar symptoms and neither time was there a CEL light.
 

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In June after 2 months of owning my vehicle it was doing the same thing and I took it into the shop and they said that the 1/4 and the 2/6 transmission clutches were "burned up". Now it's having similar symptoms and neither time was there a CEL light.
since that's the case if your concerned I would take it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Bummer, but then it is a 2011 6T40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Same PCM that monitors the engine controls the AT, if the engine is running rough, so will be your shift points.

96K on this car, at this time engine can be all carboned up, crap builds up on everything, including the intake valves so they can't close properly plus fouling up the spark plugs. Always dumping in a can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas every 6K miles, this helps clean the engine clean.

Like doing a compression test before and after, super easy on the Cruze. Other factors in the cold weather is moisture in the fuel tank that can freeze up in the lines. Fuel pressure tests would show this up, should be reading 45 psi.

Not a guessing game, time to do some tests.

If you got 100k miles out of this thing, and laid out $20K for this car, this is only 20 cents a mile that is not bad with the terrible inflation this country has in the last 45 years. Know people that are paying more than a buck per mile, some as high a $1.50 for depreciation, ha, tell them its cheaper to take a cab. Also have to add insurance, maintenance, and gas to this cost.

Back in 1965, could buy a nice car for 2,500 bucks, 2.5 cents per mile for depreciation, the rest cost about 2 cents per mile. IRS rates were 5 cents per mile, today, 55 cents per mile, back then by using your vehicle for business,were making a penny per mile in profit., Not easy today at even 55 cents per mile.

Just something to think about.
 

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Same PCM that monitors the engine controls the AT, if the engine is running rough, so will be your shift points.
You sure about that? I read a long time ago on a GM document that the Cruze automatic (6T40) had a separate TCM that was located inside the transaxle housing. It does communicate with the ECM though.
 

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Based on the assumption that the engine is running rough. Vss, TPS, Tach, and MAP sensors that determine shift points would be sending screwing data to that AT, confusing it to affect shift points.

You could be referring to this part.



That acts like an interface to the transmission, but also need to be programmed. only $411.00 for a new one. gmpartsdirect.com wants 2,000 bucks for a new one.

Shocking, when the number of people are told they need a new transmission, when most of the problems are electronic. poor connectivity, dirty contacts in the so-called neutral safety switch that selects solenoids, poor brake switch that doesn't let you get into high gear or lock the torque converter, even flashram. Whole concept of electronically controlled transmissions is that an 89 cent microcontroller does the brainwork in lieu of all that mechanical stuff that did it previously, but sure can't tell about the cost of the replacement parts.

A dead givwaway to learn if the transmission is headed south is to pull the dipstick and look at the color of the fluid. Whoops, the Cruze does not have a dipstick. We test drove severl new Cruzes with AT, and because of this and a tad of knowledge. ordered a manual.

Ha, around five years ago, replaced everything in my TH-400 with all this expensive mechanical stuff, and by everything, mean everything, the governor, vacuum modulator, all new planetary gears, clutch holders and clutch plates, new parking brake pawl and gear, speedometer drive gear, new improved six bolt torque converter and flywheel, new control valve, and even a deeper pan to hold more fluid for better cooling. Total costs for all these brand new Borg Warner parts was under 500 bucks.

And these are suppose to be more expensive than electronic.
 

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Based on the assumption that the engine is running rough. Vss, TPS, Tach, and MAP sensors that determine shift points would be sending screwing data to that AT, confusing it to affect shift points.
My first engine failed at 3K mileage. Burnt valve, spark plug damaged, hole in piston & cylinder walls damaged. This also damaged the turbo and intercooler as well. GM replaced the engine with a new crate engine, as well as all other damaged parts(only took 2 weeks). Car was running rough(3 cylinders), DIC indicated to service traction control/stabili trac. After calling dealer said based on DIC message should be safe to drive it in......

I have to crest 2 large hills and drive 17 miles to the dealer it was interesting to say the least driving this heavy car with half the engine toast & turbo out. However the trans shifting was exactly how it should be, at the exact same points. I would say the ECU doesn't change the shifting patterns at all based on engine sensor data from my experience.

My car has been trouble free since, currently at 65K.
 

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Wow, a massive engine failure after only 3K miles! Must have left some sand castings in the block. But still really don't know what's going to happen or how it will behave. Just saying, get that engine running smooth again before worrying about the transmission.

If the transmission still behaves that way, then more worries. Then how was this vehicle driven and maintained?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I dropped my car off at the dealership yesterday. White Allen Chevrolet in Dayton, Ohio. The service guy was kind and threw up a "hey I was wondering when I was going to see you again!" when I rolled into the service bay. After 5 visits to the same dealership in 10 months I guess you build a rapport with the service techs. Hopefully they can provide me with a loaner car on Monday after they look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Got word back from the dealership today. One of the seals on the turbo went bad and leaked oil into the turbo and killed it. 95k miles and the turbo is smoked. I'm being charged $85 to clean up excess oil on the side of the engine, a new oil cap, and 2 quarts of oil. Well after this is done I'll have a new valve cover, new water pump, new transmission, and now a new turbo. Maybe my car will work now properly now!

edit:

Got another call, the oil return line to the turbo is cracked and spewing oil all over the place and not covered under the powertrain warranty. I only have to pay another $150 bucks to get my car back for a roughly $240 total. GLORIOUS GM MASTER RACE.
 

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Got word back from the dealership today. One of the seals on the turbo went bad and leaked oil into the turbo and killed it. 95k miles and the turbo is smoked. I'm being charged $85 to clean up excess oil on the side of the engine, a new oil cap, and 2 quarts of oil. Well after this is done I'll have a new valve cover, new water pump, new transmission, and now a new turbo. Maybe my car will work now properly now!

edit:

Got another call, the oil return line to the turbo is cracked and spewing oil all over the place and not covered under the powertrain warranty. I only have to pay another $150 bucks to get my car back for a roughly $240 total. GLORIOUS GM MASTER RACE.
If the part that is covered under the powertrain warranty caused the part not covered to fail wouldn't it be covered because it wouldn't have failed if that part didn't? Or is that not how a warranty works?
 
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