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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a 2012 Cruze LTZ (gas) with 112k miles. I really haven't taken it in to the dealer very often. It has some recall work done that fixed one issue I had, and then I had a small leak that was cheap to fix right after my 100k warranty was up. Other than that nothing is done except oil changes and some air filter changes. I'm about to get new tires, detailing, and I'm going to get it up to date on all maintenance. The service manual suggests:

Inspect evaporate control system
Replace timing belt
Drain, flush, and refill engine cooling system
Change auto transmission fluid, filter if equipped (is it equipped?)
Replace spark plugs and wires

and I'm going to need to have my alignment checked out also as my 4th tire is a different age than the other 3 and it might be off slightly.
I've driven it in harsh conditions, snow, mud, dusty dirt roads, etc. so any other things you would recommend would be great.

My main question is... which of these should be done at the dealership, and which at an independent shop?
I want this thing to run smoothly for 5 more years 100k more miles so I'm thinking I save money by doing the basic stuff at a small shop and take it to the dealer for the big stuff and they would spot any mistakes made by the smaller shop.

Any ideas? What is this going to cost me?

Thanks!
 

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Hey guys, I have a 2012 Cruze LTZ (gas) with 112k miles. I really haven't taken it in to the dealer very often. It has some recall work done that fixed one issue I had, and then I had a small leak that was cheap to fix right after my 100k warranty was up. Other than that nothing is done except oil changes and some air filter changes. I'm about to get new tires, detailing, and I'm going to get it up to date on all maintenance. The service manual suggests:

Inspect evaporate control system
Replace timing belt
Drain, flush, and refill engine cooling system
Change auto transmission fluid, filter if equipped (is it equipped?)
Replace spark plugs and wires

and I'm going to need to have my alignment checked out also as my 4th tire is a different age than the other 3 and it might be off slightly.
I've driven it in harsh conditions, snow, mud, dusty dirt roads, etc. so any other things you would recommend would be great.

My main question is... which of these should be done at the dealership, and which at an independent shop?
I want this thing to run smoothly for 5 more years 100k more miles so I'm thinking I save money by doing the basic stuff at a small shop and take it to the dealer for the big stuff and they would spot any mistakes made by the smaller shop.

Any ideas? What is this going to cost me?

Thanks!
No timing belt.....1.8 only so nothing required on your 1.4.
No plug wires......you don't have any.
No trans filter maint. required......you would have to disassemble the unit to get to it.....this is a 'life of trans' filter.
Inspect evap system....No.....if there is a problem a SES light will set.

Coolant change? Yes.
Trans drain and fill (avoid flushing) Yes.
Consider flush/fill brake fluid.......these newer cars with lots of aluminum brake parts are easily damaged by moisture laden old fluid.
Plugs.....Yes.

DO NOT use the phrase 'Tune Up'.........otherwise your wallet will get 'tuned up'.......

You only want the specific services I just put Yes next to.

Play your cards well and you should come out in the $300.00 or less range........do not buy any services from a service menu (the signboard over the service writers head).....those are price inflated, nothing being done services....known as a wallet flush....beware!

Rob
 

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Pull down the 2014/2015/2016 Limited Owner's manual and look at the sever services page. Do what hasn't been done on this page. Do NOT let the dealership talk you into more services.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Robby, do you think I should replace any part of my brakes while doing the fluid change? 112k miles nothing done previously to them. They make a small squeaky noise every once in a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are there any belts that are known problems that I SHOULD replace while doing all of this work? I'll probably hit 125-130k miles by end of the year
 

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All fluids (brake, transmission, coolant) should be exchanged at this point, and spark plugs as well. Put in a new air filter, and you should be good to go.

Chripy brakes when applied (if we're talking about the same faint noise) - lube the slides and that will go away. Inspect pads to make sure they've still got meat on em.
 

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For sure it is time for careful pad thickness determination.......the occasional squeak is the nature of disc brakes but you do have a lot of miles.
Clearly though, you are on the highway a lot, explaining long brake life.......It would be a good idea to clean and lube the caliper slides and locating pins just so they don't start binding.

Serp belt is a very good idea and shame on me for overlooking it........100k.......? it has served you well.
I am assuming you have exchanged the cabin filter at least once and am reasonably confident it is time for another.......this is a simple job that a dealer will take advantage of you to replace, so...........and yes, I see you replaced the engine air filter once.....I think it is time again.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, what kind of cost for the serpentine belt job? I'm at the dealer on the 10th for tires and I will ask then but would be good to have something to compare against.
I changed the passenger glove box filter myself in the past, time to find another one online.
 

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At least a half hour to 45 minutes labor on the belt.....they must remove one engine mount and bracket to access.

Rob
 

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Thanks, what kind of cost for the serpentine belt job? I'm at the dealer on the 10th for tires and I will ask then but would be good to have something to compare against.
I changed the passenger glove box filter myself in the past, time to find another one online.
Are Dealers the best place to go for Tires?
 

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More and more dealers around here are getting into tires to help pay the rent, make sure yours has an alignment capability.

Been dealing with a local Goodyear tire shop, been pretty good so far, while they charge 25 bucks to install a tire, also give free rotation, flat repair, and tire balance for the life of the tire. Have to shop around and do have alignment equipment. Also sells a whole range of different tire brands and promises to beat tirerack.com prices.

While BMW states with ABS, should flush your brake system once a year, feel three years is sufficient, did this last year on my Cruze. Just use my oil changing ramps on the rear, and use a vacuum system, fronts I can get at by turning the steering wheel to the far left or right. Do the RR first, LF, LR, and the RF last. Pump until it comes out clean, but make sure the master cylinder is kept full or will get air into the system.

Takes me a bit longer changing the drive belt, typically around 80 K miles, like to pop the seals off the alternator, tensioner, AC idler pulley bearings, clean those up and put in new Wolf's high temperature red bearing grease, this stuff last for years. Of course I check the races and balls for any pits, but that OE grease dries up. Never cared for a single drive belt system, can leave you stranded if just one limited lubricated bearing decides to seize up, stupid. Alternator can always use new brushes.

I refuse to purchase any AT vehicle that does not have a dipstick, if the rest of the world was like me, we would all have dipsticks.
 

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One reason I read why they got rid of the AT dipstick is because people won't be able to pour windshield wiper fluid in there, this was from a marketing guy.

I got news for you, still can pour windshield wiper fluid in your AT, but sure ain't as easy. Can also pour windshield wiper fluid in your gas or oil hole. Did run across people that poured windshield wiper fluid in the oil filler hole. Kind of wrecked their engines.

One thing marketing has in common with some people, both are kind of stupid.
 

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One reason I read why they got rid of the AT dipstick is because people won't be able to pour windshield wiper fluid in there, this was from a marketing guy.

I got news for you, still can pour windshield wiper fluid in your AT, but sure ain't as easy. Can also pour windshield wiper fluid in your gas or oil hole. Did run across people that poured windshield wiper fluid in the oil filler hole. Kind of wrecked their engines.

One thing marketing has in common with some people, both are kind of stupid.
My thoughts

Consider that the line between accidental and deliberate is very fine.

Imagine how often GM got stuck with the bill of other peoples mistakes.

I can not wait for the day that the drivers blames the accident on failures of park assist, blindspot detection, cameras, etc...

At one time you paid dearly for your mistakes, and you learned from it or other peoples mistakes. Maybe one caused enough damage to be metaphorically culled from the herd, or your activities were limited, making the rest of the world a safer place.

So in that case, in the name of general safety, we are deliberately engineering systems to enable stupid people to live longer, spend less and not make or take responsibility for inane actions.
 
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