More and more dealers around here are getting into tires to help pay the rent, make sure yours has an alignment capability.
Been dealing with a local Goodyear tire shop, been pretty good so far, while they charge 25 bucks to install a tire, also give free rotation, flat repair, and tire balance for the life of the tire. Have to shop around and do have alignment equipment. Also sells a whole range of different tire brands and promises to beat tirerack.com prices.
While BMW states with ABS, should flush your brake system once a year, feel three years is sufficient, did this last year on my Cruze. Just use my oil changing ramps on the rear, and use a vacuum system, fronts I can get at by turning the steering wheel to the far left or right. Do the RR first, LF, LR, and the RF last. Pump until it comes out clean, but make sure the master cylinder is kept full or will get air into the system.
Takes me a bit longer changing the drive belt, typically around 80 K miles, like to pop the seals off the alternator, tensioner, AC idler pulley bearings, clean those up and put in new Wolf's high temperature red bearing grease, this stuff last for years. Of course I check the races and balls for any pits, but that OE grease dries up. Never cared for a single drive belt system, can leave you stranded if just one limited lubricated bearing decides to seize up, stupid. Alternator can always use new brushes.
I refuse to purchase any AT vehicle that does not have a dipstick, if the rest of the world was like me, we would all have dipsticks.
Been dealing with a local Goodyear tire shop, been pretty good so far, while they charge 25 bucks to install a tire, also give free rotation, flat repair, and tire balance for the life of the tire. Have to shop around and do have alignment equipment. Also sells a whole range of different tire brands and promises to beat tirerack.com prices.
While BMW states with ABS, should flush your brake system once a year, feel three years is sufficient, did this last year on my Cruze. Just use my oil changing ramps on the rear, and use a vacuum system, fronts I can get at by turning the steering wheel to the far left or right. Do the RR first, LF, LR, and the RF last. Pump until it comes out clean, but make sure the master cylinder is kept full or will get air into the system.
Takes me a bit longer changing the drive belt, typically around 80 K miles, like to pop the seals off the alternator, tensioner, AC idler pulley bearings, clean those up and put in new Wolf's high temperature red bearing grease, this stuff last for years. Of course I check the races and balls for any pits, but that OE grease dries up. Never cared for a single drive belt system, can leave you stranded if just one limited lubricated bearing decides to seize up, stupid. Alternator can always use new brushes.
I refuse to purchase any AT vehicle that does not have a dipstick, if the rest of the world was like me, we would all have dipsticks.
