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Discussion Starter #21
If R1234 you can find an independent shop to retrofit the system to R134. It’s not illegal...Yet... But it is significantly cheaper.
Also: retrofitting is illegal. The EPA considers it tampering in violation of the Clean Air Act and the fines are huge.
 

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Also: retrofitting is illegal. The EPA considers it tampering in violation of the Clean Air Act and the fines are huge.
You just can't make new products with R134. Beyond that there's nothing for at least the next 4 years. And R1234yf systems are about 95% compatible with R134... Just don't blend the two.

You're probably thinking of the old school refrigerants. Yeah using those is a big no no. A blend of propane will work but there's a very explosive reason on why it's banned from automotive.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
You just can't make new products with R134. Beyond that there's nothing for at least the next 4 years. And R1234yf systems are about 95% compatible with R134... Just don't blend the two.

You're probably thinking of the old school refrigerants. Yeah using those is a big no no. A blend of propane will work but there's a very explosive reason on why it's banned from automotive.
You can make new products with R-134a. There is no ban on it, but manufacturers get credits for using refrigerants that have low global warming potential.

R-290 is flammable, not explosive. It's not banned per-se, but just not widely adopted for the flammability reason.
 

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Some of you should read the latest manual on refrigerant.

The required reading to pass certification if you want to continue buying freon more then 2 lbs.
 

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R-290 is flammable, not explosive.
In the container under controlled release. Sure.


If you’re talking about the sticker on the side of the container which just says flammable... Yes they are highly misleading.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
An independent shop did a quick check with UV light and found no leaks anywhere in the easily accessible spots under the hood. That technician seems to believe it's the compressor. My understanding is the compressor is variable-volume as modern cars don't cycle the compressor on/off as older cars used to. He seems to think for whatever reason the compressor is running too much and wasn't cycling down like it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Mine is set to 72 all the time as well, auto fan unless I need the defrost/defog for the windshield. 70 seems way too cold and 75 feels way too hot lol
What are these numbers?

I have the cheap car, so I have a dial that is always turned hard anti-clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The Cruzes problem is that the condenser heat soaks at idle, because of the jet hot mf'in turbine 6" behind it. LOL. The fan is too small and the engine bay too tight to evacuate heat when stopped. That's when AC can't keep up, while in motion that sh!t is ICE cold.
I have limited experience with a 2019 gasoline Cruze as a loaner car for a warranty repair, and that wasn't during a hot day.

My diesel keeps it sufficiently cold when parked. Diesel engines have very minimal heat rejection into the engine coolant: they are very efficient at combustion, so minimal heat wasted into the coolant system. At least for the diesel engine, the exhaust turbine has little effect on the AC from what I have noticed.
 

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What are these numbers?

I have the cheap car, so I have a dial that is always turned hard anti-clockwise.
I think it's the comfort package that has the auto HVAC system. The RH dial has LED numbers that change as you rotate it to set the desired temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I got a phone call from Chevy customer service. After I mailed them a polite letter, they are escalating this to a senior customer service manager to see if we can get something done.

Any suggestions? The AC seems to be working fine other than those two consecutive days that it froze up. I used a super-strong UV light to check everything under the hood and didn't find any obvious leaks.

Tentatively, I'm going to ask if a dealership can check the pressures (high side, low side) using their R-1234yf equipment and maybe plug the car into the computer if there are other computer-controlled things going on. I want to be nice and see if they can diagnose this easily, without taking a lot of their time and effort.
 

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Getting a diagnostic scan , and taking a leak tester to test for leaks from evaporator would be wise. Freezing kills them. There's an issue with this in certain Impalas due to their drainage and AC software.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Getting a diagnostic scan , and taking a leak tester to test for leaks from evaporator would be wise. Freezing kills them. There's an issue with this in certain Impalas due to their drainage and AC software.
I'm going to have them put it on the lift and look for dye in the evaporator drainage tube because that's the easiest way to do that without tearing into the dash to check. If there are no leaks anywhere else easily accessible and the system is low on refrigerant, I would assume the leak is in the evaporator.
 

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The GM specified service tool for inspecting for leaks is very accurate, and quick ly finds leaks. If you can get them to fire it up and check the drain or a vent that would be best.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The GM specified service tool for inspecting for leaks is very accurate, and quickly finds leaks. If you can get them to fire it up and check the drain or a vent that would be best.
Oh, this is something I've never heard of! What tool? I need to know this ASAP so I can tell them what to do to get the best possible outcome.
 
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