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I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze. My latest issue is when I get in the car and start it, it immediately says "AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP", and then the fan kicks on. The fan stays on the whole time I am driving. The thing is the temperature gauge is showing that it is not hot. I didn't know if it could be some sensor in there or what. I don't know a lot about vehicles, besides everything that has gone on with this one. This doesn't happen all the time either, sometimes I start it and the engine light is no longer on and it runs normal. Help!
 

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I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze. My latest issue is when I get in the car and start it, it immediately says "AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP", and then the fan kicks on. The fan stays on the whole time I am driving. The thing is the temperature gauge is showing that it is not hot. I didn't know if it could be some sensor in there or what. I don't know a lot about vehicles, besides everything that has gone on with this one. This doesn't happen all the time either, sometimes I start it and the engine light is no longer on and it runs normal. Help!
Consider your self lucky. So my 2014 cruze did this last night it was 37 degrees out.
284662
 

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It posted before I finished. I've complained about smelling coolant since May. 4 dealer trips. Coolant was low down to the min line on pressure tank. As soon as I moved it temp gauge shot up to the last white mark before your red. Moved far enough to get coolant. Open the tank coolant returns and fills back up just one notch low. Topped it off. Attempt to drive home. Not happening. According to scan gauge temp got up to 262 degrees never hotter. Not moving coolant. Fan. Isnt the issue. But where you're lucky is you have a warning. My junk never even let me know. I dont know what's wrong with the car at this moment. I highly suggest you dont drive it! Check engine light finally came on forgot what code but basically the one that says you have no coolant flow doesnt tell you if its water pump or thermostat. Dont think thermostat as it back flowed coolant into the tank, I guess it could be stuck open. I have to pull all my paper work out but I believe the water pump was replaced in May when the turbo failed and it was overheating then with no pre warnings.
 

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My car was actually overheating earlier in the year, and I got a lot of stuff replaced. The water pump, pvc valve, the tubing for the coolant. It has had more trouble than not!
 

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Mine does it for like a week, then it will be okay for three days. Is yours running like mine?
Last night was the first time I ever saw that message. If you notice in the pic the car was running and dead cold when it displayed that. The fan came on high speed as well. Have you looked for coolant leaks?
 

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That is the same thing with mine. It is on the fan kicks off and doesn't quit until I turn it off. I just had them checked, yes. No leak.
 

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My car was actually overheating earlier in the year, and I got a lot of stuff replaced. The water pump, pvc valve, the tubing for the coolant. It has had more trouble than not!
If you have a warranty on any of the work suggest taking it back to where it was done. I think I've got a blown head gasket but not sure, I think it's been working on that for awhile. There is no coolant in the oil. This car is the worst car I've ever owned. And I use to complain about my old MGB midget and TR7 Triumph. The Cruze is a money pit. The dealers cant fix anything unless it has a code. I've got just over 1500 miles on my left extended warranty. Which has been the biggest waste of money to date.
 

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That is the same thing with mine. It is on the fan kicks off and doesn't quit until I turn it off. I just had them checked, yes. No leak.
Trust me it's over heating. Something isnt working right. By the time you get the check engine light it's not good. If no coolant leaks you may have a bad sensor. If you can squeeze the coolant lines there is no flow. That could be the thermostat staying closed or a water pump. Some say a clogged radiator.
 

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I have driven back and forth 90 miles to community college for the past 3 years. So, it is long past its warranty. I am only 21 and a female. So I don't know much about cars, but this is a horrible car, and you are exactly right saying it is a money pit. I have put so much money into it. I graduate in December and plan on getting a car soon after, because I need something that will be dependable driving back and forth to work everyday!
 

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I have driven back and forth 90 miles to community college for the past 3 years. So, it is long past its warranty. I am only 21 and a female. So I don't know much about cars, but this is a horrible car, and you are exactly right saying it is a money pit. I have put so much money into it. I graduate in December and plan on getting a car soon after, because I need something that will be dependable driving back and forth to work everyday!
I took my Cruze back to the dealer that said there was no coolant leaks. They called after having the car all day saying nothing is wrong with it. I figured out the dealerships are not pressure testing the systems. They replace parts based on codes. I pushed back on them. So now it has a broken plastic connector. This is the problem with these cars all the plastic junk. I feel for you being so young. Watch your coolant levels. Something is not working right. The thermostat is plastic and tends to explode in a closed position. The fan switch or fan could be bad. But if you have had the check engine light on take it to auto zone or O'Reilly they check your codes for free. The unfortunate part of the code thing is there is no direct answer. I wish you the best.
 

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I just fixed this very same problem yesterday. It turned out to be the water outlet temp. sensor. I got really panicked when I saw that message, and saw my temp gauge wasn't working.
If this happens to anyone, try these few steps and it may calm your nerves a little.
Pull over to a safe location and turn the car off and pop the hood.
There are 2 big hoses attached to the radiator. The one going into the upper portion is the inlet, I think, and if it's warm, your thermostat is probably working properly. Mine was warm, but I could still hold it with my bare hand.

The other hose is the outlet. If it's cool, then the radiator is probably doing its job. Lastly AND BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL HERE (safety first! So use gloves) SLOWLY!!! unscrew the cap from the reservoir, do it slowly and gradually. If there is any pressure inside the system, the coolant will burn you.

In my case there wasn't a lot of pressure so there was very little hissing noise.

I then placed my finger and held it it the coolant. I could hold it there for about 10 seconds.
I watched a couple of videos on you tube, got my new sensors, And replaced the water outlet sensor. It took about 5 minutes to replace (if that) Careful here though, The o-ring didn't come out with the old sensor, so caution there. But I did manage to retrieve it with very little loss of coolant.
Put everything back like you find it, and reconnect the battery. Start the vehicle, and the message disappeared for me.

Hope this helps.
 

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That is the same thing with mine. It is on the fan kicks off and doesn't quit until I turn it off. I just had them checked, yes. No leak.
During my research for solving my sensor issue, one of the better video guys had mentioned that the fan is supposed to kick on at 225 degrees F.
 

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I just fixed this very same problem yesterday. It turned out to be the water outlet temp. sensor. I got really panicked when I saw that message, and saw my temp gauge wasn't working.
If this happens to anyone, try these few steps and it may calm your nerves a little.
Pull over to a safe location and turn the car off and pop the hood.
There are 2 big hoses attached to the radiator. The one going into the upper portion is the inlet, I think, and if it's warm, your thermostat is probably working properly. Mine was warm, but I could still hold it with my bare hand.

The other hose is the outlet. If it's cool, then the radiator is probably doing its job. Lastly AND BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL HERE (safety first! So use gloves) SLOWLY!!! unscrew the cap from the reservoir, do it slowly and gradually. If there is any pressure inside the system, the coolant will burn you.

In my case there wasn't a lot of pressure so there was very little hissing noise.

I then placed my finger and held it it the coolant. I could hold it there for about 10 seconds.
I watched a couple of videos on you tube, got my new sensors, And replaced the water outlet sensor. It took about 5 minutes to replace (if that) Careful here though, The o-ring didn't come out with the old sensor, so caution there. But I did manage to retrieve it with very little loss of coolant.
Put everything back like you find it, and reconnect the battery. Start the vehicle, and the message disappeared for me.

Hope this helps.
What told you that sensor was bad? Did you check the voltage/current? Continuity? My Crude is still at the dealership waiting on GM to decide if they are going to assist. However there is significant miss Information. Assumably the t at the fire wall was leaking, but then the service manager said it's the thermo housing (not one time have I seen coolant). They also blow fuses that make them act stupid. So I would be on the safe side only replace stuff you know is broken otherwise it's a long and expensive road and that car is not worth it! Sadly I love the way it handles! But dont like all the made in China plastic that fails. Sensors are usually the last thing to fail in a car, well at least normally and not before 100k.
 

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What told you that sensor was bad?
Nothing. I did a process of elimination by trying the steps I followed based on 2 things. 1) the knowledge I got from looking into why the display suddenly told me my engine was over heating, and
2) I reasoned that since the car has been working normal until then, I figured it must have been a sensor. My car has 153 k miles on it, so I figured it was probably time for a replacement. That and the severe discoloration of the old sensor, and the condition of its o-ring, and the fact that I don't get the message from the car anymore.....I think that's a pretty good indicator. ;)
 

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Thermostat opens at 221 degrees Farenheit. Just an FYI.
I stand corrected. What do I know about modern vehicles? It's all electronic nowadays. It's not like the old days when cars were simpler, and you could fix most issues without have to remove 10-15 items just to change a water pump.
 

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I stand corrected. What do I know about modern vehicles? It's all electronic nowadays. It's not like the old days when cars were simpler, and you could fix most issues without have to remove 10-15 items just to change a water pump.
I think it's come back to us. Yes, for a while there, the electronics put the shade tree mechanic out of business. But now, with CAN bus and code readers along with the web, getting diagnostic and how-to info is way easier than it was in the 80's and early 90's. Plus, thanks to the electronics, you change plugs every 100k miles instead of every 10k.

YMMV.

Doug

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What told you that sensor was bad? Did you check the voltage/current? Continuity? My Crude is still at the dealership waiting on GM to decide if they are going to assist. However there is significant miss Information. Assumably the t at the fire wall was leaking, but then the service manager said it's the thermo housing (not one time have I seen coolant). They also blow fuses that make them act stupid. So I would be on the safe side only replace stuff you know is broken otherwise it's a long and expensive road and that car is not worth it! Sadly I love the way it handles! But dont like all the made in China plastic that fails. Sensors are usually the last thing to fail in a car, well at least normally and not before 100k.
I own a 2012 Cruze. After several overheating issues, with the ‘A/C off due to high engine temp’ warning and the fan always being on high speed, I was told by the GMC dealer that the cooling fan resistors were the problem, so I changed the cooling fan unit. The overheating issues continued, so I changed the thermostat module, which had fallen apart, and, as a precaution, changed both temp sensors. I now have a check engine light telling me it’s a sensor problem. The temp gauge now fluctuates and starts to rise for no apparent reason, even in the cold Albertan temperatures of -10 and below whilst doing highway speeds. I don’t know what to do next. The car has been a cash cow since buying it three years ago. Has anyone ever managed to get a favourable outcome on the overheating issues? I’d appreciate any feedback that would solve my problems.
 
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