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I have a 2012 Cruz and my biggest issue is ..when air condition is running it will not accelerate properly its almost like I have to floor it to pick up speed.It never had this issue when the heat is on . Any answer to why????
 

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What octane fuel are you running? By the description of your lack of power I would suspect regular 87 octane. When its above 80F outside do your turbo car a favor and give it premium gas.

With the heat on there is no extra load on the cars systems, with the AC on the tiny engine has to turn the AC compressor. Even with premium off the line I can feel that extra drag and it seems the cars power doesn't come on strong until slightly higher in the RPM. something else that might be helpful, If you floor the pedal the car will automatically cut off the AC when accelerating.
 

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When I bought my 2011 ECO, it was July. You need to up the Octane, 91 or 93 would be best. A lot of members have changed out the spark plugs to copper and gap to the correct spec. Most of your A/C related acceleration issues will go away. To me the car was dangerously unresponsive with A/C on in the hot weather without those two changes.
 

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The AC puts quite a drag on these little engines, especially when it is on full blast.

Run 89 or 91/93 octane and change your spark plugs for NGK BKR8EIX. Even with 93, my car lagged a bit below 2500 with the AC on with the stock spark plugs. It is insanely more drivable this year with the new plugs - I haven't had to change my shift pattern at all.
 

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The AC puts quite a drag on these little engines, especially when it is on full blast.

Run 89 or 91/93 octane and change your spark plugs for NGK BKR8EIX. Even with 93, my car lagged a bit below 2500 with the AC on with the stock spark plugs. It is insanely more drivable this year with the new plugs - I haven't had to change my shift pattern at all.
NGK BKR8EIX??
Not to derail this thread, and if there is another spark plug thread please link it but I am using the NGK BKR7E in my 2012 1.4 auto.

I was having lag issues like the op has, but even without A/C, and with the BKR7E's I noticed no difference... perhaps I need to try the BKR8EIX. Is that a hotter plug?
[h=1][/h]
 

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NGK BKR8EIX??
Not to derail this thread, and if there is another spark plug thread please link it but I am using the NGK BKR7E in my 2012 1.4 auto.

I was having lag issues like the op has, but even without A/C, and with the BKR7E's I noticed no difference... perhaps I need to try the BKR8EIX. Is that a hotter plug?
[h=1][/h]
It's one colder, and iridium instead of copper (longer life).

Check and set your gap to .028" - they ran much better than the stockers for me with AC on.

These motors have annoying issues with predetonation in warm intake air temps, so that seems to be where the colder range helps (less knock).
 

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NGK BKR8EIX??
Not to derail this thread, and if there is another spark plug thread please link it but I am using the NGK BKR7E in my 2012 1.4 auto.

I was having lag issues like the op has, but even without A/C, and with the BKR7E's I noticed no difference... perhaps I need to try the BKR8EIX. Is that a hotter plug?
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/21850-hesitation-gone.html

Pop over to the end of this thread. Here's the summary:

Copper: NGK BKR7E vPower
Iridium: NGK BKR8EIX

Gap both to 0.028-0.030" to start.

If you're still having issues after doing this let us know. Make sure you're running 91 octane to reduce knock in the heat. I run 91 year round. The 1.4T engine in the Cruze actually requires 91 octane - 87 works because the ECU protects the engine from knock by detuning the spark ignition sequence the engine on the fly.
 

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http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/21850-hesitation-gone.html

Pop over to the end of this thread. Here's the summary:

Copper: NGK BKR7E vPower
Iridium: NGK BKR8EIX

Gap both to 0.028-0.030" to start.

If you're still having issues after doing this let us know. Make sure you're running 91 octane to reduce knock in the heat. I run 91 year round. The 1.4T engine in the Cruze actually requires 91 octane - 87 works because the ECU protects the engine from knock by detuning the spark ignition sequence the engine on the fly.
KRD in the glovebox and build sheet is where you will find this 91 recommendation.

KRD - FUEL RATING OCTANE NO. 91
 

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The 8iex's really help with fuel mileage too, they come gapped at .029 you just throw them in...91 octane minimum, I wish they still sold 92 here in cali...
 

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The 8iex's really help with fuel mileage too, they come gapped at .029 you just throw them in...91 octane minimum, I wish they still sold 92 here in cali...
Come to Cleveland, we have 93. Years ago we had 94 available.
 

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I have a 2012 Cruz and my biggest issue is ..when air condition is running it will not accelerate properly its almost like I have to floor it to pick up speed.It never had this issue when the heat is on . Any answer to why????
Hi Ashtx15,

We apologize for this concern, and we would be happy to look into it further for you. Feel free to send me a private message along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and a preferred dealership. Looking forward to your response.

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care
 

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I've had the same issue. When I first purchased my 2012 Cruze ECO in May 2012, no issues. About 15 months later I began noticing that in hot weather (Texas), when I needed to accelerate quickly the car was unresponsive unless I floored it. Didn't worry me about the AC but trying to drive in Austin traffic was scary at times.
Took it to the dealer, who kept it for a few days having his tech drive it and even my Service Advisor drove it home. Could not duplicate the issue and told me because of the way the car is made to help mileage, it was not the same power as a regular vehicle. Got it back and still noticed reduced power at times.
About 6 months later, took it back because it was bad in lower temp weather Dealer said I had a vacuum leak and that was the cause and it was fixed.
A few months later, it was back to the dealer and I was told it needed to have the system cleaned because of buildup due to not using Top Tier fuel. $400+ later, it runs better and I'm only using top tier fuel BUT... when it's in the 90's, I do not have power to accelerate quickly when needed and have to floor it.
Car ran much better but in January my check engine/stabilization light came on and I drove it to the dealer to check. Had OnStar run the codes and gave the info to the dealer. Can't recall exactly what he told me but said it would happen for a number of reasons and the code didn't indicate the specific cause. He cleared the codes to get the idiot lights off.
Hope the recall to reprogram the engine control module helps. I guess I can start paying an arm and a leg for the higher octane fuel but at this point I don't really think that will fix the problem. On a side note, mpg is lower than when I first purchased the car but still runs on average about 33. I can't keep putting money into it all the time when the fixes just seem to just band-aids.
 

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I noticed the same last year when I got the car, pulling the hill home with the AC on and just got off freeway and up a small climb-AC still on-total hesitation, hasn't done it since but it has been cool, also I think GM is aware of a hesitation and is trying to find a cure because I saw a pending PIE0289 service info listed for my vehicle
It asks the dealer to question the customer complaining of no power under what conditions they noticed it, the "intermittent Reduced Engine Power with no DTCs set" says they are gathering information to formulate a fix for the concern, it is dated 6-10-14 so I don't know if the new recall may also address this or not and I have not had that done yet so can't say, also I have stock spark plugs and run California oxygenated regular gas in the vehicle and it had 21K on the clock when I noticed it so doubt it was any wear part or even plugs but others have reported the plugs and 91 octane made the hesitation go away, I think they say the knock sensor sends the engine control module into a fuel table and timing table that causes the condition ??
 

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I've had the same issue. When I first purchased my 2012 Cruze ECO in May 2012, no issues. About 15 months later I began noticing that in hot weather (Texas), when I needed to accelerate quickly the car was unresponsive unless I floored it. Didn't worry me about the AC but trying to drive in Austin traffic was scary at times.
Took it to the dealer, who kept it for a few days having his tech drive it and even my Service Advisor drove it home. Could not duplicate the issue and told me because of the way the car is made to help mileage, it was not the same power as a regular vehicle. Got it back and still noticed reduced power at times.
About 6 months later, took it back because it was bad in lower temp weather Dealer said I had a vacuum leak and that was the cause and it was fixed.
A few months later, it was back to the dealer and I was told it needed to have the system cleaned because of buildup due to not using Top Tier fuel. $400+ later, it runs better and I'm only using top tier fuel BUT... when it's in the 90's, I do not have power to accelerate quickly when needed and have to floor it.
Car ran much better but in January my check engine/stabilization light came on and I drove it to the dealer to check. Had OnStar run the codes and gave the info to the dealer. Can't recall exactly what he told me but said it would happen for a number of reasons and the code didn't indicate the specific cause. He cleared the codes to get the idiot lights off.
Hope the recall to reprogram the engine control module helps. I guess I can start paying an arm and a leg for the higher octane fuel but at this point I don't really think that will fix the problem. On a side note, mpg is lower than when I first purchased the car but still runs on average about 33. I can't keep putting money into it all the time when the fixes just seem to just band-aids.
Have your brakes checked. We had a member who until recently was at best running low 30s in his ECO MT. Replacing his brakes and rotors fixed the issue.
 

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I noticed the same last year when I got the car, pulling the hill home with the AC on and just got off freeway and up a small climb-AC still on-total hesitation, hasn't done it since but it has been cool, also I think GM is aware of a hesitation and is trying to find a cure because I saw a pending PIE0289 service info listed for my vehicle
It asks the dealer to question the customer complaining of no power under what conditions they noticed it, the "intermittent Reduced Engine Power with no DTCs set" says they are gathering information to formulate a fix for the concern, it is dated 6-10-14 so I don't know if the new recall may also address this or not and I have not had that done yet so can't say, also I have stock spark plugs and run California oxygenated regular gas in the vehicle and it had 21K on the clock when I noticed it so doubt it was any wear part or even plugs but others have reported the plugs and 91 octane made the hesitation go away, I think they say the knock sensor sends the engine control module into a fuel table and timing table that causes the condition ??
For clarification, the 1.4T engine is coded KRD, 91 octane. GM Marketing said, and probably rightly so, that very few Americans would purchase an "economy" car that required 91 octane so GM Engineering came up with a design to monitor the engine for knock and mis-timed detonation. The ECU is programmed to receive this information from the sensors and switches to a "low octane" map when it's detected. The low octane map effectively detunes the engine spark timing to reduce the chance of engine knock and thus protect the engine. This is the KR (Knock Retard) number you'll see referred to in some threads here. The side effect is less HP production, which translates into lower performance in the heat. The easiest and least expensive ways to combat this feature is to run 91 or higher octane and ensure you have correctly gapped and good spark plugs. Believe it or not, higher octane can boost your fuel economy enough to cover the pump cost.

To determine the correct octane for your car, driving style, and driving environment, do the following: Pay attention to the throttle feed back on 87 octane. When you feel the throttle pulse that's the ECU actively detuning the engine timing to protect the engine. Switch to 89 octane for at least two full tanks (run the gas guage down to below 1/4 left before each tank). Monitor how your car drives, including the throttle response and pulsing. Then do the same for 91 or higher octane. The octane you should use will be one grade below where you didn't notice any difference in throttle response and acceleration. Any lower and you won't like the way the car drives and any higher you're wasting your gas money for no benefit.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but many of today's engines will automatically disable the a/c compressor when flooring it. It's a safety and power thing. I know my cars with larger engines always would momentarily disable the compressor until you let up on the pedal. My '12 Cruze Eco AT hardly notices the difference with the a/c on or off, when I'm pushing it hard. I use at least 89 fuel and try to use only 92 or 93. BP (Amoco, Standard) and Shell seem to have the best Top Tier gasolines.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but many of today's engines will automatically disable the a/c compressor when flooring it.
Correct, floored the cruze disables the AC. When its 90F outside you can feel the rush of hot air when you floor it.

My '12 Cruze Eco AT hardly notices the difference with the a/c on or off, when I'm pushing it hard.
Problem is most people never floor the car so under normal driving condition's especially in the city the cruze plain sucks with the AC on. Only time I use mine is on the highway at constant speed because of this. My cars power band seems shifted up about 1000RPM with the AC on, very slow revving and seems to have low boost until close to 3,000RPM. Normally leaving an intersection I have great power starting at 2,000RPM. I also better make sure I'm in the lowest gear possible for any maneuver or I'm probably going to get run over.
 
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