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Added two 6x9 subs to rear deck! chyea!

39591 Views 18 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  NickD
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So I did alot of research and came to a conclusion that I dont want a sub in my trunk at all! I wanted it stealth installed or hid away somewhere. Then again, I also didn't want bass that'll rock my block so I decided to go down a "premium" audio system route. On one note, this is for the cars without the pioneer upgrade as I only have the 6 speaker option. Next weekend I should get the rest of my parts in for the rest of my speakers but this is some pics from my install. I used two Tang Band subs Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer 264-837 (note: these are awkward shaped subs so they need to be custom fitted into the stock rear deck 6x9 holes! forewarned)
Along with the subs I used:
2x- 6x9 Universal MDF Spacers (too lazy to make my own and because they didn't come with templates. I am going to seal the spaces soon to make sure no sound will leak out but it is a mad tight fit)
8x- #8 1 [SUP]1/2 [/SUP]stainless steel bolts
8x - 8x Rubber washers
8x- Lock Nuts (these made the install perfect for doing by myself or else the speaker wouldve fell on my face!)
You will need to drill your own holes into the metal of course.

Here is a quick explaination on how to get to the rear deck. Credits to Cruze15 from chevroletcruzeforum.com
First, from inside the trunk take out the 2 screws that hold the third brake light in. pull down on the grey clip and then unplug the connector. Take it out now.

2nd, on each side of the car is a little plate that says AIR BAG, slightly pull the side out a bit and push the airbag plate out from the back. Take out the screw behind the plate. You might want to use a magnetic screw driver.

3rd, Pull gently on the side piece til it pops out of the 3 clips. Pull straight out btw.

4th, If the back seat is not already down then do so. Pull the plastic push clip on each side just under the latch. These clips old the rear deck to the back seat mount.

5th, lift up on the front part of the deck so you can clear the edges of the back seat mount.

6th, Pull the deck piece at an angle following the contour of the back glass.

In the end, they were completely worth it. They bump like crazy an they have an insane good response and sound reproduction. I can hear/feel it outside of the vehicle if i turn it up...and that isn't even blasting them. So really, they turned out to be the perfect sound I was looking for. I don't ever really have to turn them down as they aren't boomy as ported subs are. I installed these IB by the way...best way IMO. Next week i'm installing a 4 channel amp, two sets of kenwood component speakers, and dynamating the doors and rear deck. Yes, I am custom mounting tweeters in the rear doors! I will do a write up when I'm done! Feel free to ask any questions I hope I filled in some gaps other posts didn't.

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Here's the concept behind this whole idea.

6x9 subs are great if you want more output. Tang Band as well as Cadence make some great ones. However good the trunk I'd at sealing noise, it is imperfect. The end result is that any 6x9 sub will effectively be installed in the equivalent of a very leaky box.

As a result, you will lose low frequency extension. Your bass will be louder, but it will not be truly deep. Play "The Kraken" by Hans Zimmer to see what I mean. You will not be able to hit the truly deep yet natural double bass notes because of that.

The other issue is the rear deck pad. It differs in cars equipped with the Pioneer factory 6x9 subs from cars not equipped in that there is more material cut out of the pad in the former to allow air to move. Any 6x9 subs you install will not produce the entire potential of their sound as a result.

The Tang Band subs will get recently loud, but are ultimately going to sound boomy until you get some mass loaded material over the rear deck to seal all but the 6x9 holes. However, that rear deck can breathe for a couple of reasons.

1. Closing doors. There are two flaps on opposite sides of the car in the 1/4 panels by the rest tail lights that vent air. When you close a door, you pressurize the car. The pressure is released through those vents.

2. Closing the trunk. Some of that pressure will go through those flaps, but if you seal off the rear deck and close the trunk too quickly, you will force pressure on the 6x9 drivers.

3. Driving with windows open. Seal the trunk enough, and you will begin to create a "fluttering" sound.

Thus, you have a catch-22 with rear 6x9 subs. Use them, and you have stealth bass but you lack linear extension below ~55Hz. Seal the deck, and you get that extension but you create pressure problems in the trunk.

Finally, all of that bass goes away the moment you fold down the back seat for any reason as the bass waves will cancel out.

For a stealth install, a fiberglas molded enclosure is really the best bet, but of course will wind up costing you an extra $250. How accurate do you want your bass to sound? Do you just want a louder punch, or do you want to tell apart each note in "The Kraken?"

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