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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured this might help someone out there. Sorry for all the pictures. Hahaha

Long story short I've had my Cruze for about 4 years and now with a longer commute now I'm starting to want more "ease of use" options.

First on the list was wireless charging, however, my car didn't come with it originally. Now, I've had a suction cup charger for a while, but between the blind spot it causes and the 120+ degree days here in AZ, being mounted on the windshield wasn't exactly a permanent solution.

I wasn't able to find the answer to my questions about adding wireless charging to a non-wireless optioned car, so I jumped head long in and decided to just try it. I bought a bunch of stuff on eBay and went to work...

Here's the full write up:
The Car:
2017 Chevy Cruze Premier

Bone tool/Nylon trim pry tool
7mm socket and ratchet
T15 Torx socket/screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver

Wiring harness: 13478151 for wireless charging, replacing my 39086944 non-wireless charging harness
Wireless Charger Module: 19421449 (with adapter harness), this is the upgraded module that works with newer phones I have a Galaxy S8+ with a Quadlock case
Wireless Charger Module Mount: 13473796
Wireless Charger Console Compartment: 84016760 + 84070150 (rubber liner)
110v Module: 13438997
110v Module Mount: 13454354
110v Plug: 13332854
Rear Console Tail: 13479705 (US Built, Black), 84016736 (Mexico Built, Black)
Seat Heater Buttons: (R)13409520 + (L)13409519 (Black)

Not knowing what I had, I started by removing the center console to check the wiring harness to see if I had the plugs for everything.

Fuse box cover, just pull down and out.

Passenger side is just held in by push clips. Give it a few tugs as you go along the edge.

Drivers side is held in by one 7mm bolt (by the gas pedal) and some push clips.

With both side panels removed, the fuse box trim/surround can be removed. Quick pull on both sides and a little wiggling and it will come out.

Slide both seats all the way forward to access the two rear bolts (both 7mm) for the console.

Slide both seats back and remove the four (4) front bolts holding the console in.

10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·

To remove the shifter bezel stick your tool under one side and work around to pop the clips free.

Undo the shifter plug.

Lift the shifter bezel up high enough to access the retainer underneath. Squeeze the tabs and pull down to move the shifter boot away from the shifter knob.

Use your pry tool in the front center of the shift knob to release the tabs holding the trim, and work the trim downward.

Should look something like this.

Remove the shift knob retaining clip and lift the knob straight up. Be sure to work the wire and plug out through the boot.

Remove the plug for the shifter lighting and set the bezel aside.

10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Insert the pry tool and work around underneath to pop the lock tabs.

BE AWARE: Lift the trim up and out from the front as there are tabs at the back that could break.

The Traction Control button will be attached. Flip the trim over and unplug the connector. Set the trim aside somewhere safe as it's kinda flimsy and it won't be needed until reassembly.

Not necessary:Traction Control button pictured here removed from the trim.

Disconnect the main harness plug, located on the passenger side, by pushing the lock tab in and lifting the purple lock tab.

Pop out the USB/AUX interface (2 plugs) and 12v/lighter plugs and disconnect.

NOT PICTURED, but there are two push clips on the front of the console (can be seen in next picture on far right if you look closely). So once all the bolts are removed the console can be removed by giving it a tug backwards to pop the clips and it lifts right out.

It was stupid hot out so I brought the console inside to do the disassembly / reassembly.

Flip the console over and remove the plastic cross brace and set aside. It won't be used with the wireless charger. It's held in by basic pinch tabs.

10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The old console holder simply pops out with a solid push from the back. The wireless charger pocket and cup hooks in at the back and then simply pops back into place.


This is the OLD wireless charging module that DOES NOT work with the newer phones or do fast charging. The number on the box is the CORRECT one that comes with the wiring harness adapter to go from the new module to the old wiring harness.

These are the four (4) bolts to remove to replace the module in the mount.

Front two (2) mounting points to the console. The parts I bought didn't come with mounting bolts so I got them at my local ACE Hardware. They were typical self tapping style button head screws. $0.25/ea

Rear two (2) mounting points to the console. The parts I bought didn't come with mounting bolts so I got them at my local ACE Hardware. They were typical self tapping style button head screws. $0.25/ea

The wireless charger and cradle/mount mount to the points where the plastic cross brace was removed from. As you can see in my pictures the mounting bracket I got was used and had the tabs broken off. Zip ties to the rescue!

The 120v charging module and cradle/mount. Not to be confusing but "Up" is up in relation to the console being upside down. Haha

Another broken clip at this mounting point, so more zip ties.

10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With everything mounted it's time to install the wiring and plug everything in. Here's the difference between the new and old.

1 - Rear USB outlet
2 - Sensor
3 - Traction Control button
4 - Keyless Entry/Remote Start sensor
5 - Shifter Lighting

1+2 - Seat Heater buttons
3+4 - 120v outlet plugs
5 - Sensor
6 - 120v Module
7 - Traction Control Button
8 - Keyless Entry/Remote Start sensor
9 - Wireless Charging Module
10 - Shifter Lighting

The 120v outlet has two (2) plugs and they're indexed so you can't mix them up.

Seat heater buttons are also indexed so you can't mistakenly plug them into the wrong ones. Seat heaters won't work as of right now because I don't have the module or the heater pads, but that can be added later without taking the console out.

In order to use the 120v outlet I had to replace the console tail as the outlet plug is much larger than the usb outlet. The tail is held in with pop clips, so with the console upside down give it a couple of jabs on the bottom and it should slide right off. Then flip the console over and with the new tail simply line up the clips and give it a hard shove.


So the whole console is all back together and simply re-installs in reverse order.

Quick note: When reinstalling the shifter knob make sure to line it up and install the retainer clip first, then put the wire back into it's channel. Otherwise the chrome trim on the shifter trigger won't fit. Also don't be like me and get to this point and realize you forgot to install the chrome trim shifter bezel.

10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So now both the wireless charging pocket and 120v plug work. No software updates or BCM upgrades needed. It's plug and play.

Working on videos. Will update when YouTube finishes processing them.

48 Posts
Awesome man, been thinking about doing the same for a while. I really appreciate your time and effort on making this tutorial. Thank you.
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