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Advice on "lot rot" 2014 Cruze

10K views 52 replies 25 participants last post by  ChevyGuy 
#1 · (Edited)
Advice on NEW 2014 Cruze

EDIT
Thanks for all the advice! I've decided against the car as I found an identically-optioned 2015 2LT for 4.5k off before negotiation. So that's way better than 6k off a 2014 2LT.




Hello all,

I found a dealership in my area that still has a two 2014 Cruzes on the lot. The Cruzes are 2lt with sunroof and rs package. MSRP of 25000 and the dealership is discounting them $6000. It sounds like a great deal but my only concern is that they were manufactured in 09/14, which means they have been sitting on the lot for a long time. They both only have 21 miles on the odometer. I live in NE Ohio, so they definitely got snowed on a lot during the winter.

Are there any issues with buying a car that has sat for this long? There is definitely rust on the rotors, do they need replaced? I've heard of "lot rot" and that it can really hurt your car. Some articles say I should at least ask the dealer to install a new battery.

I guess I would like some advice on if this sounds like a good deal, or if there are too many potential problems with buying a car that has sat this long.

Thanks so much!

TL/DR

Are the leather, 4 wheel disc brakes, heated seats, sunroof, rs, and sport suspension of the 2014 2LT worth more than a 2015 LT with power seat and backup camera or RS with the redesigned LED front end? Both are about the same price at $19000, although the 14 is firm, the 15 might go lower.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Its not the snow that causes the worst corrosion...its the road salt. Something it wasn't exposed to sitting on the lot.

I think they can do better than $6K OFF. I got a lot more than that off my 2014 CTD back in December.

As far as the brakes...take a 30 minute test drive on side streets. Any rust should be off long before then, and if you don't have brake pulsations then...that is a non-issue. A new Battery would be a good thing to negotiate.
 
#5 ·
I wouldn't be too worried about how long it has sat on the lot causing issues. Like previously mentioned, rust is typically caused from the salt on the roads. This car likely hasn't been exposed to that just sitting on the lot. The rust on the rotors is probably surface rust and should come off after a short trip. Personally, I'm not even sure that battery would be a issue because I believe most dealers start all of the cars on the lot and/or move them around on a regular basis so I would imagine it has ran long enough to keep the charge topped off. If you negotiated then replacing it I would be concerned that they would tell you they did without actually doing it. As for how good the price discount is, well, I'm not sure.
 
#6 · (Edited)
If you care a lot about the appearance of the paint, be sure to inspect that real close with a flashlight if it's not full on sunny. Could already have scratches or swirls from the dealer(s) washing it in an automatic wash, or poorly by hand. If there are defects in the paint, be sure to leverage that, and don't trust them to fix it. Minimum you have to clay bar new cars anyway to get all the stuff off from transportation and sitting outside on the lot, which only increases the longer it sits.
 
#8 ·
Three year warrant starts from the day you purchased the car, regardless of how long it sat on the lot. As does the 5 year rust warranty. Seen "new" vehicles with already 478 miles on the odometer, those I would like to stay away from, how were they broken in? 21 is okay.

Unbelievable how many used vehicles I am seeing on the lots today, bit over three years ago, was hardly a handful with outrageous prices. More of a supply and demand type of market, and when the supply exceeds the demand, is the time to buy.
 
#9 ·
Three year warrant starts from the day you purchased the car, regardless of how long it sat on the lot. As does the 5 year rust warranty. Seen "new" vehicles with already 478 miles on the odometer, those I would like to stay away from, how were they broken in? 21 is okay.
The first Cruze I test drove already had 250 miles on the odometer; this took me completely by surprise when I started it up! (Yes, it was being sold as "new" at a Milwaukee area Chevy dealer.) My first thought was that this car had seen many, many test drives, but I didn't say anything to the salesman about it. Later that evening I Googled the VIN and the car showed up at a Chevy dealer in Lafayette, IN (225 miles from Milwaukee). So apparently the Milwaukee dealer had someone drive the car from Indiana.

I completely agree with NickD, there's no way of knowing how these "new" cars were broken in.

I ended up buying a different Cruze at another dealer (this one had only 15 miles on the odometer when I test drove it).


- Joe
 
#10 · (Edited)
My 2012 Eco was bought new in 2013 it was a left over 2012 at the beginning of 2013. Don't remember the mileage. I paid less for it than my 2011 LS(I had just "buried" after a bad accident). The 2012 was one of those cars no body wanted (6M, fully loaded and Auburn Metallic(new for 2012 but now popular)). It was the type car I was looking for(at a good price) so I bought it in Feb 2013 now has 51K. with no problems. Buying cars is always a gamble. Some good some bad. Just buy what you want and you'll be satisfied. I personally would not have considered/thought about "lot rot" if it was what I wanted. Cars have along life it properly taken care of despite how long they sat at first. As long as you're happy with what you bought now that is all that matters.
 
#11 ·
Brakes, battery and condition of paint based on the car not getting cleaned off and contaminants just sitting on the paint for who knows how long other than that I would not be concerned. Road salt really doesnt get on a sitting vehicle in a packed dealer parking lot. They are great deals when you can find them. I would say hold off for the new 16 if you can. But 6k off is a great offer, sometimes you can ask for more. Either way your call
 
#12 ·
That 04 Cavalier Sports coupe I saw at my dealers in Sep 03 was exactly what I was looking for, but had 78 miles on the odometer. Would have purchased it anyway if even more miles, because with a sticker price of $18.3K on it, after factory rebates, GM loyalty, and my GM card, only paid $7,300 for it.

For this kind of money, could only find used up crap in the lot.

Not so lucky with the Cruze, couldn't find anything I liked on the lots, so ordered on exactly the way I wanted it with 2 miles on the OD. But with my GM card, smaller factory rebate, ha, a vet discount, got it for $15,5K. Dealer had a bunch of broken up 2011 Cruze's in the lot from rental car agencies at a much higher price than this. GM card doesn't apply.

Last Memorial Day, Chevy was offering 20% off the sticker price on Cruze's. Still supply and demand.
 
#14 ·
Sounds like an awesome deal if you like the 1LT. I drove a rental 1LT for a month and prefer the my CTD for the upgraded Verano brakes ,insulation, and suspension. I would offer $7K off but take the $6K off deal if necessary, and not worry about lot rash. That can be worked out under warranty. I paid $4.5K (included 3K GM points) under sticker for my CTD in Dec 2013. Big discounts were not available. Had to search the online lot inventory to find my colors/options within driving distance. Be sure to drive the specific car and work out any lot issues before taking delivery.
 
#15 ·
It is a good deal for a 2015 1LT. I think this dealership has trouble moving cruzes so they price aggressively.

I can get a 2015 1LT with driver convenience package for $18,814 or a 2014 2LT with RS and sunroof, leather seats, 17inch wheels, sport suspension, and more for $18,965.

Kinda makes you want to get the 2014.
 
#17 ·
The term 'lot rot' is more often applied to a used car that has parked for a month or more.
It primarily is directed to 'return to service oil leakage'.....a common problem for a parked car with miles that is the result of older seals and gaskets drying out a bit and shrinking......often the seeps seal themselves after a few weeks of operation once the seals get wetted down and heat cycled.

OP?.....the dealer is not getting much price support from GM on a unit that old.....they are essentially selling it at cost with holdback removed and whatever rebates the car had the dealer took.
Thats the only way to pull that much off a car that actually only had a 3% margin.
So, odds are they won't go any lower unless they go below cost and loose the interest they paid for flooring expense.

So much for price, on to the car......look VERY carefully for hail damage on all horizontal surfaces.....get it out of direct sunlight and into a garage so you can sightline across the hood/deck/roof for ant dimples.
If there are any, the dealer collected insurance for the repair and chose to try to market it unrepaired.....this also could explain the willingness to deep discount.
As stated, the brake rotors usually clean up with use.....
Most likely the paint is in terrible condition from airborn fallout.....it'll have to be clayed and polished.....
The wiper blades are shot....the daily sunburn has seen to that.
Look very carefully at the tire sidewalls for cracking.......sunlight destroys tires if they never move. Keep in mind that the tires lifespan is already two years gone from the standpoint of environmental damage regardless of tread.

Keep in mind that the coolant has exausted two years of its five year lifespan just sitting and the oil must be changed prior to going into service.

Lastly (for now) keep in mind this is a two year old car.....the 16's are just around the corner.....
One way to look at price is: If you were to get involved in a accident, totalling the car on your way home from the dealership, how much will insurance pay?

You may think you will get what you payed cause you got it at a low price but the insurance will only pay clean book value even if it only has twenty miles on it........be certain you can afford the loss.

Good luck with the decision,
Rob
 
#37 ·
Lastly (for now) keep in mind this is a two year old car.....the 16's are just around the corner.....
Keep in mind the 16's are a complete redesign. The first buyers are beta testers. The 15 is the last of the first generation - possibly dated in a few years, but with known problems ironed out.


One way to look at price is: If you were to get involved in a accident, totalling the car on your way home from the dealership, how much will insurance pay?
That depends on what insurance you buy. Ask about a rider for the difference. (Like Liberty Mutual's "one model year newer with 15,000 fewer miles on it" - which if you read the fine print is optional coverage.) The extra coverage might be worth it for the first year.
 
#23 ·
If you find the 15 is of equal equipment then you must decide if a grand savings is enouph to offset the one year newer car.
Something as simple as preferring one front facia design over another could be all it takes.

Another example.....14's had leather wrapped steering wheels.....most 15's don't...something as simple as that can help the decision.
Each will have the same service life since neither has been in service yet.

Rob
 
#27 ·
Well, like I said.....look at all the additional equipment that is on the 14......heck, just the bigger wheels/tires, Z-link suspension and leather alone make it hard to resist.

And again, the warranty starts on the same day regardless of choice as well as knowing the 14's are essentially 'debugged' compared to the earlier years.

Just adding thoughts and furthering your confusion.
Rob
 
#28 ·
Many of us have purchased a used car, this is still a new car and to say lot rot in 10 months is a bit of exaggeration in my view. The car will last for a very long time, negotiate a great price and just drive and enjoy. You get same warranty as 15, in 16 the warranty will be only 60k miles. So those of that wait for 16 are going to get less warranty.
 
#29 ·
Lot Rot sucks!!! Bought a 2010 HHR with 250 miles on it that was nothing but problems....it had been on the lot for almost a year manafactured in 8/09, bought it 6/10. Milwaukee Chevy dealers are nitourious for selling new cars as new cars with 250-3500 miles and calling them new....it is a total scam and stay away from then. High Pressure Bullshit!!!

Buy your car from a country town dealer where everything is done with honesty and a handshake especially when you pay with bank certified cashier's and need no financing and they still check your credit five times !!
 
#30 ·
I decided on the '15 vs '14 when looking due to the upgrade in MyLink for iPhone support. The '15 has the LED frontend and a trunk button.

If MyLink was the same in the '14 I would go for that. The 2LT comes with leather, 4 wheel disc brakes, and heated from seats over the 1LT RS that I ended up with.
 
#32 ·
You bring up a good point regarding connectivity.
My responses are more about vehicle as transportation device......to those that are into the media thing will appreciate the 15 more.

I'm still the type that enjoys the tranquility of driving a good handling car.....it is a type of 'escape the world' device for me.....I rarely play the radio and the phone is at home, bolted to the wall.

Rob
 
#31 ·
If you are buying a new car that has sat on the lot this long, definitely get gap insurance.

Also, from personal experience, a new car sitting that long can cause the wheel bearings to go bad prematurely, as the grease has time to "settle" to the bottom of the bearings.
 
#33 ·
I don't use an iphone so the connectivity doesn't matter much to me. I'm paying cash so GAP insurance isn't necessary.

The bottom line is are the leather, 4 wheel disc brakes, heated seats, sunroof, rs, and sport suspension of the 2014 2LT worth more than a 2015 LT with power seat and backup camera or RS. Both are the same price.

Its about features versus premature wear. I asked on this forum because I wanted feedback on how bad 10 months on the lot is.
 
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