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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car has 13k on it fully under warranty but would love to have an idea of what's going on so dealer doesn't try to play around.
First off I have a horrible brake vibration on a brand new car with only 13k?!? I've spoken with the dealer about it right after I bought the car and they said they would put the rotors on a lathe? (They still do that) can/should I ask for new rotors? I really don't like the idea of spinning them vs. new ones! Second (probably related to #1) I've noticed a fairly hard pull to the drivers side seeming to go away after I drive for afew miles and things warm up. I've never experienced a pull that kinda comes and goes?!? Any ideas?? Third is a definite miss fire SOMETIMES while idle at a stop light in gear. What's up with that!? Anyone else have issues like this?!? Thanks in advance!!

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Hey if you could repost this in the Gen 2 section or ask a mod to move it. Some of those things sound familiar with the older units as well!
 

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The brake pulsation (on a new vehicle) is generally the result of rusted rotors, known in the industry as 'Lot Rot'.
It is the result of disuse while waiting for a buyer........while sitting, anything that gets the brakes wet, like a (several) rainstorm(s) will dampen the metallic components mixed in the brake pad material.
Ultimately the pads actually adhere to the rotor, which will have a coating of rust as well.
When the car is finally moved, the pad to rotor interface breaks free.....sometimes with a audible 'pop'.
When the interface breaks, a microscopic layer of pad material shears off the pad but remains on the rotor.......you will actually be able to see a perfect shadow of the pad on the rotor face......inner, outer, or both sides and often, both rotors on the affected axle......in this case, the front system.
Since the layer adhered to the rotor is the same material that the pad is made up of, use of the car (and brake application) will not 'clear' the material.
The pulse you feel is actually the pad riding up and over the material attached to the rotor.

In this case, a skin cut of the rotor, just enough to eliminate the shadow mentioned before, is appropriate. The actual cut depth is minute and should have no effect on rotor lifespan.

For any readers: anytime you wash the car (and wheels), do not just put the car away without taking a lap around the block to heat and dry off the pads and rotors......usually a good wash floods the pad area and sets the car up for the same situation described above.
A quick trip drys things off nicely.
Sometimes, you'll be talking cars to someone and they will tell a story along the lines of the brakes were smooth yesterday, but are madly pulsing today.......ask if they washed the car before the incident....most of the time the answer is 'Yes'.

There is a fair chance the pull described is related but until the rotors are cleaned up, no additional diagnosis can occur.

Good luck and congrats on the new car,

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The brake pulsation (on a new vehicle) is generally the result of rusted rotors, known in the industry as 'Lot Rot'.
It is the result of disuse while waiting for a buyer........while sitting, anything that gets the brakes wet, like a (several) rainstorm(s) will dampen the metallic components mixed in the brake pad material.
Ultimately the pads actually adhere to the rotor, which will have a coating of rust as well.
When the car is finally moved, the pad to rotor interface breaks free.....sometimes with a audible 'pop'.
When the interface breaks, a microscopic layer of pad material shears off the pad but remains on the rotor.......you will actually be able to see a perfect shadow of the pad on the rotor face......inner, outer, or both sides and often, both rotors on the affected axle......in this case, the front system.
Since the layer adhered to the rotor is the same material that the pad is made up of, use of the car (and brake application) will not 'clear' the material.
The pulse you feel is actually the pad riding up and over the material attached to the rotor.

In this case, a skin cut of the rotor, just enough to eliminate the shadow mentioned before, is appropriate. The actual cut depth is minute and should have no effect on rotor lifespan.

For any readers: anytime you wash the car (and wheels), do not just put the car away without taking a lap around the block to heat and dry off the pads and rotors......usually a good wash floods the pad area and sets the car up for the same situation described above.
A quick trip drys things off nicely.
Sometimes, you'll be talking cars to someone and they will tell a story along the lines of the brakes were smooth yesterday, but are madly pulsing today.......ask if they washed the car before the incident....most of the time the answer is 'Yes'.

There is a fair chance the pull described is related but until the rotors are cleaned up, no additional diagnosis can occur.

Good luck and congrats on the new car,

Rob
I've owned the car now for about 8000 miles or like 3 or 4 months. I was told to by a tech at the dealership to ride out the brakes as long as possible so when I did get them taken care of they would have todo the pads too BUT wouldn't you think after 8k anything stuck to the rotors would have worn off? Regardless my pull was really bad last night (enuff to have steering wheel tilt slightly to left) and now tonight it was straight and I didn't really feel a pull? Sticky caliper? Tire pressure was 34 LF 35RF 34 L,R Rear. I also have a notchy feel in the wheel on the highway sometimes I've noticed but from what I've read it was a problem before but was supposedly fixed/cured? Any insight on weather it is or could still be an issue? I understand diag from waaayy over there in the other screen is hard lol but I'd like just alittle ammo cause my dealer likes to pretend they don't have any issues at all ever even if I take them and show them. Had a tranny going out in a 12 and they swore up and down it was fine till one day they came and picked up the car with only 1st gear lol. So I need alittle bit of push back for when they tell me I'm an idiot and to go home.

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Well, unless you are a absolute animal when braking I suspect the pads still look like new at 8k.
I'm disappointed in your dealers response.......this pad transfer situation will never 'wear off'. That's why I explained the pad cannot wear off material of the same hardness.
Push hard though.......GM warranty regarding rotor resurfacing is only 12k miles (unwritten, but falls under 'Wear')......frankly, I'd be chatting with another dealer.........This one (based on your trans experience) seems to like to avoid any warranty service.
That is not how Chevrolet wants it played out.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well it's been through the dealer. They put the rotors on a lathe. I asked how thick they where I was told "they still have plenty of meat left" the vibration is gone, breaks seem Abit low now meaning I have to press the peddle in kinda deep to see a response. Oil change, tire rotation, and a Update to the steering module. Thanks everyone!

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Well it's been through the dealer. They put the rotors on a lathe. I asked how thick they where I was told "they still have plenty of meat left" the vibration is gone, breaks seem Abit low now meaning I have to press the peddle in kinda deep to see a response. Oil change, tire rotation, and a Update to the steering module. Thanks everyone!

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Pedal may feel low(ish) while the pads re-bed to the, now smooth, rotor face. This will take around a hundred miles or so of around town braking.

Rob
 

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The rear brakes on many Gen 1's are mis-adjusted. I was recently in a 2016 Limited as a loaner, and you could feel that the rear brakes didn't grab AT ALL until you were fairly well into the brake pedal. It too, like my 2012, had pulsing brakes...a result of the front brakes doing all the braking and the pad baking on to the rotors.

There is a write-up in the forum here for adjusting the rear drum brakes to where they will grab during normal braking applications.

If the weird idle occurs at 1/4 on the temperature gauge as the car is still in the process of warming up...this is just a normal Cruze thing. I don't know why they do it; I suspect it's some variable valve timing logic that is different at that point in the ECU programming.
 
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