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My charging voltage never drops below 14.5 and sometimes it get above 15. From what I understand it should drop down into the 12's but never does? Is this a feature that has to be activated by a dealer?
It can get that high. The Cruze also has a battery current sensor, so it's a little more sophisticated than your standard car charging system. The regulator is part of the BCM.I do have a question about testing the alternator if the voltage is normal to be as high as 15.1. I took my 2011 Chevy Cruze LT to auto zone and had the alternator tested and since the machine read 15.1 it’s saying the alternator is bad. How do you test the alternator for over charging?
I've seen it as high as 15.3 with a bad battery and in winter.So is t say to say the old method of testing an alternator doesn’t work since the charging system actually does charge at 15.1volts?
correct. The proper way would be to use a tech2 and send commands to the alt for various conditions, making sure it adjusts its output accordingly. If you disconnect the ground loop sensor, voltage should default to 13v or so...if it doesn't, the alt might be bad....that's the only DIY test w/o special tools that I know of. I've been dealing with this type of charging system in my truck since I got it 8yrs ago.So is t say to say the old method of testing an alternator doesn’t work since the charging system actually does charge at 15.1volts?
Hmm, while I don't quite understand why it needs to do that, I'll take your word for itit does that to warm up the battery, totally normal
No idea. The system can only guess the battery temperature based on other readings. So, that may not be a valid test. But it can sense the current going to the battery itself. My guess is that it raises the voltage as needed to get the charging current it wants. Traditional automotive systems were more of a constant-voltage design.Hmm, while I don't quite understand why it needs to do that, I'll take your word for it
And not to derail the OP's thread I have a simple (?) question then. Bear with me on this ....cold engine, 32 degrees out, start engine and alternator pegs out at 15 volts or so. Shut engine off. Replace battery with a warm (75 deg) battery. Start car again. Alternator should be more like 14.6 (or so) volts?
in theory, yes....unless other conditions (Battery state of charge, accessories running, etc) are sensed that would also trigger a higher voltage output.Hmm, while I don't quite understand why it needs to do that, I'll take your word for it
And not to derail the OP's thread I have a simple (?) question then. Bear with me on this ....cold engine, 32 degrees out, start engine and alternator pegs out at 15 volts or so. Shut engine off. Replace battery with a warm (75 deg) battery. Start car again. Alternator should be more like 14.6 (or so) volts?
Commanded Duty Cycle | Generator Output Voltage |
10% | 11 V |
20% | 11.56 V |
30% | 12.12 V |
40% | 12.68 V |
50% | 13.25 V |
60% | 13.81 V |
70% | 14.37 V |
80% | 14.94 V |
90% | 15.5 V |
the LS7 ignition coil kit has nothing to do with alternator outputBadnewsracing.com has spark plug upgrades that's all bolt on top of the engine and come in all colors which gives major voltage upgrades to the car in case anyone was wondering.