On my 2012, only one antenna lead for cellular, navigation, didn't have this, AM, and FM from that single short whip antenna.
Was also very easy to steal, screwed into the base, mine was loose from the factory. If yours is like this, remove it, wire brush the threads and screw it in tight. Shark fin antennas did not have this problem. FM frequency is 90 times higher than AM, can be capacitively coupled, AM requires a good DC clean connection.
Ha, back in the 60's, when FM stereo first came out, had to lay out 160 bucks for an FM stereo demultiplexer. Today with microelectronics and phased locked loop, the entire AM, FM, and stereo demultiplexer is in one 40 cent chip, so why do they charge so much for these radios? And all of that very expensive mechanical tuning is history, with IF cans and all that other stuff.
Just saying if that chip goes bad, nothing works. Class D amplifiers got rid of all those expensive heat sinks, just one tiny chip about the size of a nickel can output 40 watts!
Was also very easy to steal, screwed into the base, mine was loose from the factory. If yours is like this, remove it, wire brush the threads and screw it in tight. Shark fin antennas did not have this problem. FM frequency is 90 times higher than AM, can be capacitively coupled, AM requires a good DC clean connection.
Ha, back in the 60's, when FM stereo first came out, had to lay out 160 bucks for an FM stereo demultiplexer. Today with microelectronics and phased locked loop, the entire AM, FM, and stereo demultiplexer is in one 40 cent chip, so why do they charge so much for these radios? And all of that very expensive mechanical tuning is history, with IF cans and all that other stuff.
Just saying if that chip goes bad, nothing works. Class D amplifiers got rid of all those expensive heat sinks, just one tiny chip about the size of a nickel can output 40 watts!
