Ordered.
MyLink Temp said 8* F on the way home from work just now. 30 minute commute, Froze my ass off for 20 minutes.
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MyLink Temp said 8* F on the way home from work just now. 30 minute commute, Froze my ass off for 20 minutes.
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost uses surfectants to improve thermal transfer between metal and liquid (coolant) by increasing surface tension.
Specifications
Application: All Cruzes
Quantity Required: 1 fluid ounce per quart of 50/50 antifreeze Or...
1.4L Turbo: 5.8 ounces
1.8L: 6.9 ounces
2.0L Diesel: 9.5 ounces
Each bottle contains 16 ounces
Recommended application: every 30,000 miles
Benefits:
- Reduces warm-up times on 1.4L and 1.8L engines during winter driving conditions, providing heat in the cabin sooner.
- Aids in cooling of the 1.4L turbocharger for improved longevity
- Improves effectiveness of heater core and radiator
- Reduces cylinder head temperatures. This aids in valve cooling and reduces combustion chamber temperatures, which help prevent knock.
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost is similar to Redline's Water Wetter, but tested at ~2x as effective in transferring heat. It is compatible with DEXCOOL coolant/antifreeze and does not affect its rated service interval. This product will benefit anyone who wants to get heat into the cabin faster during the winter, participates in any racing with their 1.4 Turbo Cruze, or simply wants to improve the longevity of their turbo by keeping it running cooler.
Order Information and Pricing:
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost
Warranty Information:
The AMSOIL warranty certificate can be found using the following URL: AMSOIL Warranty
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: Will my engine warm up faster in the winter?
A: No, the engine itself will actually warm up slower in the winter when the heater is on, because more of the excess heat created by the engine will be dissipated by the heater core to warm up the cabin more quickly. This is a trade-off between fuel economy and comfort until the engine is fully warmed up.
Q: Will this void my warranty?
A: Regardless of what your dealer tells you, the Magnuson-Moss act protects you from having your warranty voided by using a product other than what the dealer recommends. If there is a failure, GM has to prove that the fluid caused the failure. This product is compatible with the DEXCOOL and using it will not void your warranty.
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost uses surfectants to improve thermal transfer between metal and liquid (coolant) by increasing surface tension.
Specifications
Application: All Cruzes
Quantity Required: 1 fluid ounce per quart of 50/50 antifreeze Or...
1.4L Turbo: 5.8 ounces
1.8L: 6.9 ounces
2.0L Diesel: 9.5 ounces
Each bottle contains 16 ounces
Recommended application: every 30,000 miles
Benefits:
- Reduces warm-up times on 1.4L and 1.8L engines during winter driving conditions, providing heat in the cabin sooner.
- Aids in cooling of the 1.4L turbocharger for improved longevity
- Improves effectiveness of heater core and radiator
- Reduces cylinder head temperatures. This aids in valve cooling and reduces combustion chamber temperatures, which help prevent knock.
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost is similar to Redline's Water Wetter, but tested at ~2x as effective in transferring heat. It is compatible with DEXCOOL coolant/antifreeze and does not affect its rated service interval. This product will benefit anyone who wants to get heat into the cabin faster during the winter, participates in any racing with their 1.4 Turbo Cruze, or simply wants to improve the longevity of their turbo by keeping it running cooler.
Order Information and Pricing:
AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost
Warranty Information:
The AMSOIL warranty certificate can be found using the following URL: AMSOIL Warranty
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: Will my engine warm up faster in the winter?
A: No, the engine itself will actually warm up slower in the winter when the heater is on, because more of the excess heat created by the engine will be dissipated by the heater core to warm up the cabin more quickly. This is a trade-off between fuel economy and comfort until the engine is fully warmed up.
Q: Will this void my warranty?
A: Regardless of what your dealer tells you, the Magnuson-Moss act protects you from having your warranty voided by using a product other than what the dealer recommends. If there is a failure, GM has to prove that the fluid caused the failure. This product is compatible with the DEXCOOL and using it will not void your warranty.
41 - 60 of 100 Posts
I'm sceptical this or similar products do anything. Laws of physics, friction and heat generated by the combustion process is not enough to warm the engine adding something to the cooling system is not going to make a significant improvement. Besides I would never add anything to dexcool.
I monitor the engine temperatures daily on my car, on these very cold days of -20F the motor is showing -15F when I start it. On a 15F day(engine around 19F starting) it takes 4-5minutes to be at 100 degrees, when -20F the engine is hitting 90F degrees after 8-9 minutes of idling. Sure driving generates heat faster but I'm trying to point out how outside temperature effects warm up time in a more controlled environment(both examples idling) for comparison. If people are seeing any marked improvement with this product I suspect there is some other variable at play.
Have found some cases of this product becoming corrosive in the cooling system, which amsoil plays off as people using chlorinated water.
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63752
Corrosion after runing dionized water + amsoil coolant boost(similar to water wetter) [Archive] - GTA Motorcycle.com
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/other/tsb ps-2012-01-02_coolantboost.pdf
I monitor the engine temperatures daily on my car, on these very cold days of -20F the motor is showing -15F when I start it. On a 15F day(engine around 19F starting) it takes 4-5minutes to be at 100 degrees, when -20F the engine is hitting 90F degrees after 8-9 minutes of idling. Sure driving generates heat faster but I'm trying to point out how outside temperature effects warm up time in a more controlled environment(both examples idling) for comparison. If people are seeing any marked improvement with this product I suspect there is some other variable at play.
Have found some cases of this product becoming corrosive in the cooling system, which amsoil plays off as people using chlorinated water.
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63752
Corrosion after runing dionized water + amsoil coolant boost(similar to water wetter) [Archive] - GTA Motorcycle.com
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/other/tsb ps-2012-01-02_coolantboost.pdf
Those 2 posts are user error problems. I looked at these very posts before using the product.
The first, the guy used Aquafina in his radiator....
The second: If you put straight water in your system for any decent amount of time, without inhibitors, it will corrode.
No idea why AMS is recommending bottled water, this seems really bad to me.
The first, the guy used Aquafina in his radiator....
The second: If you put straight water in your system for any decent amount of time, without inhibitors, it will corrode.
No idea why AMS is recommending bottled water, this seems really bad to me.
AMSOIL protects your vehicle with a warranty against any damage to your cooling system and states that it is compatible with DEX-COOL. I posted this earlier.I'm sceptical this or similar products do anything. Laws of physics, friction and heat generated by the combustion process is not enough to warm the engine adding something to the cooling system is not going to make a significant improvement. Besides I would never add anything to dexcool.
I monitor the engine temperatures daily on my car, on these very cold days of -20F the motor is showing -15F when I start it. On a 15F day(engine around 19F starting) it takes 4-5minutes to be at 100 degrees, when -20F the engine is hitting 90F degrees after 8-9 minutes of idling. Sure driving generates heat faster but I'm trying to point out how outside temperature effects warm up time in a more controlled environment(both examples idling) for comparison. If people are seeing any marked improvement with this product I suspect there is some other variable at play.
Have found some cases of this product becoming corrosive in the cooling system, which amsoil plays off as people using chlorinated water.
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63752
Corrosion after runing dionized water + amsoil coolant boost(similar to water wetter) [Archive] - GTA Motorcycle.com
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/other/tsb ps-2012-01-02_coolantboost.pdf
I also demonstrated in the VIP section that your cylinder head operates at far higher temperatures than your coolant. We just don't have the sensors to be able to tell the difference. The difference is about 35 degrees, give or take. All we can measure is coolant temp, not cylinder head temp. Other cars are equipped to do both. I can post the datalog screenshot again if you need me to.
Surfectants have been used in a number of products on the market to improve the heat transfer at the boundary layer between water/antifreeze and metal surfaces. If you can reduce the gap between the cylinder head temp and the coolant, you will in effect see a faster warm-up time for the coolant. By the same effect, you will have heat in the cabin faster as well as the heater core will also become more efficient at transferring heat from the coolant.
This product and all products like it (including the wildly popular Redline Water Wetter) work. Every car enthusiast out there knows the Water Wetter name because it works. There's no doubt about that. I have personal friends with motorcycles (one of which is an active forum member) that use the AMSOIL product and report that their motorcycles in fact run cooler.
The DEX-COOL scare is overblown and heavily misunderstood. It is an ethylene glycol like most others on the market with high-mileage additives that require very specific operating conditions. Any conditions where sludging occurred can be attributed to either air in the system, contamination from non-distilled water, or failure to replace it at the manufacturer recommended interval.
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Most bottled water goes through a reverse osmosis filtration that removes contaminants and contains a low chloride concentration. One of the guys in the SRT8 forum explained the situation pretty clearly as far as what went wrong and why.Those 2 posts are user error problems. I looked at these very posts before using the product.
The first, the guy used Aquafina in his radiator....
The second: If you put straight water in your system for any decent amount of time, without inhibitors, it will corrode.
No idea why AMS is recommending bottled water, this seems really bad to me.
Sent from mobile.
Count me as another satisfied user, added Coolant Boost to mine and my wife's cars, my warmup time have been roughly cut in half.
Yeah, I read and absorbed that and as the guy states, you need to be reading the fine print on the bottled water to get the PPM count. Bottled water is a pretty general term. I guess I would have liked the AMS documents to be more specific. Aquafina is "bottled water" but I would never use it at all. Distilled and antifreeze is the proper mixture. Now, if the SRT guy would have used a conditioner with the Aquafina it would have been ok. I feel bad for the guy but it was his own fault really.Most bottled water goes through a reverse osmosis filtration that removes contaminants and contains a low chloride concentration. One of the guys in the SRT8 forum explained the situation pretty clearly as far as what went wrong and why.
Sent from mobile.
I've put about 60 miles and had several hot/cold cycles now. How long should this take to work in? Hate to say it but this has had 0 effect on how long it takes for the car to warm up. Just drove home (3 miles through [email protected] 25mph - 3rd gear to keep rpm up to 2k) with fan set to off, temp needle never moved from Cold. Had lunch with the wife for 30 min then drove back to work, needle managed to get just below 1/4 temp. Wondering if my thermostat is working at all...
Took me about a week to a week and a half and one entire tank of gas to really start working. I didn't really pay attention to it till then expecting it to take a while. I put in half the bottle since I didn't care to measure it all. You basically end up with a mix of coolant and coolant boost in the surge tank which will take a while to work its way through.I've put about 60 miles and had several hot/cold cycles now. How long should this take to work in? Hate to say it but this has had 0 effect on how long it takes for the car to warm up. Just drove home (3 miles through [email protected] 25mph - 3rd gear to keep rpm up to 2k) with fan set to off, temp needle never moved from Cold. Had lunch with the wife for 30 min then drove back to work, needle managed to get just below 1/4 temp. Wondering if my thermostat is working at all...
Start up your Cruze at the same time as another when they've been sitting overnight and you'll see the difference. Like I said, expect 35-45% reduction in warm-up time.
The bigger difference comes in how much heat you get in the cabin for a given temperature of the coolant. Because this improves the transfer of heat from the heater core, you will get warmer air faster. The biggest benefit is not in how long it takes your temp gauge to rise, but how much heat is produced by the car for a given coolant temp.
My car starts to blow air in single digit temperatures by 110 degrees F.
My buddy has a 2012 Cruze Eco like mine so I may just try to get our cars together one night and start them at the same time to compare.
Sent from mobile.
If you look at the surge tank you'll see there's a small circular viewing window where the vapor line is plumbed into the top of the surge tank. With the engine running you can see coolant circulating through.I've put about 60 miles and had several hot/cold cycles now. How long should this take to work in?
I would think that the coolant in the surge tank would be cycled completely every couple of hours or so. After 3-4 hours of run time I'd count on it being fully mixed into the coolant.
Yep. Heat doesn't come from nowhere, so if there's added cabin heat sooner in the warm-up process, that extra heat can only come from one place; the combustion gasses. This can happen in two ways, the first is drawing extra heat from the cylinder head, and two is the heater core drawing more heat from the coolant and cooling it further. This would send colder coolant back to the engine, absorbing more heat than hotter coolant would. The second would not cause the temperature gauge to climb faster, so I suspect it's a combination of the two. Based on the product claim of making heat transfer between metal and coolant more efficient, that would make sense.If people are seeing any marked improvement with this product I suspect there is some other variable at play.
Cooling the combustion process will reduce the engine's efficiency. Will this efficiency hit be enough for people to notice? I don't know. It will be a trade-off, as cooler combustion gasses mean cooler exhaust gasses, and that means longer warm-up times for the catalytic converters which will increase cold start emissions.
Everyone reading this needs to keep it in perspective... I'm not saying this will have a large noticeable detrimental impact on your car's fuel efficiency or cause some other catastrophic side effect - I'm sure it won't. I'm just trying to point out the physics behind what's going on here. Unless the car starts magically burning more fuel than before, there isn't any more heat energy to heat your car with than there was before. If this product increases the amount of heat you get in the car, just know the heat had to come from somewhere.
Precisely. This is exactly what is happening. It is good for people to understand the concepts behind how this is working. This product exists for people who don't mind trading a bit of efficiency during cold starts for faster heat in very cold conditions. Based on the threads and complaints that have been cropping up, I'd say there's a large number of people who fall under this category, like the fellow who had to get a rental car to get around because his Cruze didn't provide enough heat. If you are content with the warm-up time of your Cruze, this product is unnecessary.Yep. Heat doesn't come from nowhere, so if there's added cabin heat sooner in the warm-up process, that extra heat can only come from one place; the combustion gasses. This can happen in two ways, the first is drawing extra heat from the cylinder head, and two is the heater core drawing more heat from the coolant and cooling it further. This would send colder coolant back to the engine, absorbing more heat than hotter coolant would. The second would not cause the temperature gauge to climb faster, so I suspect it's a combination of the two. Based on the product claim of making heat transfer between metal and coolant more efficient, that would make sense.
Cooling the combustion process will reduce the engine's efficiency. Will this efficiency hit be enough for people to notice? I don't know. It will be a trade-off, as cooler combustion gasses mean cooler exhaust gasses, and that means longer warm-up times for the catalytic converters which will increase cold start emissions.
Everyone reading this needs to keep it in perspective... I'm not saying this will have a large noticeable detrimental impact on your car's fuel efficiency or cause some other catastrophic side effect - I'm sure it won't. I'm just trying to point out the physics behind what's going on here. Unless the car starts magically burning more fuel than before, there isn't any more heat energy to heat your car with than there was before. If this product increases the amount of heat you get in the car, just know the heat had to come from somewhere.
One note: I suspect that the coolant will also pull more heat from the turbo and the oil, which is heated through the piston cooling jets and friction, so it's not just the combustion heat. It is minimal, but it's there.
Sent from mobile.
I'm going to pick up a bottle. The last couple of days have been in the -20s for wind chill. It's been brutal. I had to modify my tune and crank up idle and some other tweaks just to make it bearable. Turning on the heat actually makes the coolant temp drop 10-30 degrees, and the car can barely reach and maintain operating temp (if ever)
I was seriously considering sealing off the openings in both grilles like you see on older school buses to try to insulate the engine bay better.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I was seriously considering sealing off the openings in both grilles like you see on older school buses to try to insulate the engine bay better.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I've only seen the dripping occur during warm-up times while the fluid expands. At full operating temperatures, I've watched it and not seen any fluid moving through.If you look at the surge tank you'll see there's a small circular viewing window where the vapor line is plumbed into the top of the surge tank. With the engine running you can see coolant circulating through.
I would think that the coolant in the surge tank would be cycled completely every couple of hours or so. After 3-4 hours of run time I'd count on it being fully mixed into the coolant.
I also have a tune, which sticks the thermostat at a specific pressure with almost no fluctuation, so that may be a reason why it took my car so long to get the fluid to circulate.
Sent from mobile.
I only see coolant dripping through there during the warm-up cycle. Unless those hoses are run through the water pump inIf you look at the surge tank you'll see there's a small circular viewing window where the vapor line is plumbed into the top of the surge tank. With the engine running you can see coolant circulating through.
I would think that the coolant in the surge tank would be cycled completely every couple of hours or so. After 3-4 hours of run time I'd count on it being fully mixed into the coolant.
Sent from mobile.
Once the coolant is at full operating temperature, which may eventually happen during the ccccccooooollllllddddd winter we've been having, and after being on the highway a bit, when you get to your destination leave the engine running and open the hood.I only see coolant dripping through there during the warm-up cycle. Unless those hoses are run through the water pump in
Sent from mobile.
Observe the little hose at the top of the tank and you will see full flow taking place.
The small hose, tank, and larger hose act as the bypass system and the flow is to guide any steam bubbles that have developed into the surge.
Standard cooling system design.
Rob
I'll check it out. If this is true, the additive should be well distributed in the system within two hot/cold cycles.Once the coolant is at full operating temperature, which may eventually happen during the ccccccooooollllllddddd winter we've been having, and after being on the highway a bit, when you get to your destination leave the engine running and open the hood.
Observe the little hose at the top of the tank and you will see full flow taking place.
The small hose, tank, and larger hose act as the bypass system and the flow is to guide any steam bubbles that have developed into the surge.
Standard cooling system design.
Rob
I need to get my buddy's Cruze parked next to mine overnight so I can test them both.
Sent from mobile.
Oh, for sure, it'll be fully distributed in probably 5 minutes or so once the system is flowing normally.
Rob
Rob
Well that's good to know. I don't have to tell people to wait several hot/cold cycles then!Oh, for sure, it'll be fully distributed in probably 5 minutes or so once the system is flowing normally.
Rob
Sent from mobile.
Did some more research on this since it is an area of concern, and I figured out the issue.I'm sceptical this or similar products do anything. Laws of physics, friction and heat generated by the combustion process is not enough to warm the engine adding something to the cooling system is not going to make a significant improvement. Besides I would never add anything to dexcool.
I monitor the engine temperatures daily on my car, on these very cold days of -20F the motor is showing -15F when I start it. On a 15F day(engine around 19F starting) it takes 4-5minutes to be at 100 degrees, when -20F the engine is hitting 90F degrees after 8-9 minutes of idling. Sure driving generates heat faster but I'm trying to point out how outside temperature effects warm up time in a more controlled environment(both examples idling) for comparison. If people are seeing any marked improvement with this product I suspect there is some other variable at play.
Have found some cases of this product becoming corrosive in the cooling system, which amsoil plays off as people using chlorinated water.
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63752
Corrosion after runing dionized water + amsoil coolant boost(similar to water wetter) [Archive] - GTA Motorcycle.com
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/other/tsb ps-2012-01-02_coolantboost.pdf
AMSOIL recommends tap water or bottled water with this product if run in straight water applications. Why then did these owners have issues?
One ran Aquafina which I have read up on extensively. At first I was looking for corrosive elements like chlorine but found none. Then I realized it is about the most flat and bland tasting water because it has no minerals whatsoever. It is extremely well purified.
Same with distilled water and ionized water. Since those have a polarity that isn't neutral, they will absorb minerals from surrounding metals. This includes aluminum. It will act like a solvent. The use of tap water in fact may be one of the reasons why this product shows so incredibly low corrosion numbers.
50/50 antifreeze is fine with distilled water because it isn't straight water, but that doesn't apply with those cases you mentioned. In those cases, the incorrect type of water was used, which is what caused the corrosion.
Sent from mobile.
41 - 60 of 100 Posts
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