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AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid

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AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid
Application: All Cruze automatic transmissions (including Diesel).
Exceeds AW-1 and DEX6 specificaitons.

Benefits:
- Guaranteed and warrantied for 2X the severe service interval specified by GM for the Cruze. GM specifies 45,000 miles severe service for all Cruze trims, making this a a guaranteed 90,000 mile transmission fluid.
- Improved cold shifting performance and cold fuel economy.
- Small improvement in overall fuel economy through reduced friction (traction coefficient) of true synthetic base stock.
- Reviewed as a "night and day" difference in shift quality by Cruze owners that have used it, eliminating shifting harshness and erratic/delayed shifting.
- Unparalleled extreme service protection and heat tolerance (see video below).


AMSOIL Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid is a group 4/5 based true synthetic lubricant that has no equal in the industry. Service interval guarantees are backed by a transmission repair/replacement warranty by AMSOIL should the lubricant fall out of OEM specifications within those intervals. Owners save money with AMSOIL through doubled severe service intervals. Extended drain intervals reduce environmental impact. All AMSOIL products are made and packaged in the USA.

Order Information and Pricing:
Due to the quantity of fluid required, I recommend purchasing at least the 6-month preferred customer account ($10) to save 25% on pricing. More wholesale pricing options.
If you plan to change this yourself, purchase the 2.5-gallon jug.
If you plan to have a shop perform a complete flush, you will need either a 12-quart case or a 4-gallon (16 quart) case. Contact your local automotive service center to determine how much fluid to bring them.

Warranty Information:
The AMSOIL warranty certificate can be found using the following URL: AMSOIL Warranty

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Isn't it cheaper to get GM fluid changed?
A: 90% of drivers drive "severe service" conditions, and GM's initial fill requires replacement by 25k miles. With AMSOIL's 2x severe service interval guarantee, you only pay for one fluid service that will be food for 90,000 miles as opposed to paying for two OE fluid services that will only be good for 45,000 miles each.

Q: Will this void my warranty?
A: Regardless of what your dealer tells you, the Magnuson-Moss act protects you from having your warranty voided by using a product other than what the dealer recommends. If there is a failure, GM has to prove that the fluid caused the failure. Since AMSOIL recommends this fluid specifically for the Cruze in their product guide, it has been tested to be within the specification of the OE fluid and AMSOIL can prove that it is within spec. It will be GM's burden to prove that it is not within spec, which they will not be able to do. Furthermore, GM's liability ends at 5 years/100k miles, while AMSOIL's guarantee extends to the recommended drain interval of the fluid. The answer is NO, your warranty will not be voided. If your dealer refuses to change this fluid in for you or asks you to sign a waiver, take your car to an independent transmission shop.

Q: Will this affect my fuel economy?
A: Excellent cold-flow fluidity will allow the fluid to exceed the fuel economy of the factory fluid during short trips, warm-up periods, and cold weather.

Q: Will this fix my erratic shifting?
A: Cruze owners who have changed to AMSOIL ATF have noted that the fluid significantly smoothed out the shifting issues they were having on as little as 26k miles on OE fluid. Since shifting issues can result from many problems, your results may vary.
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Thanks for reporting back. To clarify something though, the fluid was dark because of the rust inhibitor that GM put inside the transmission, which is wearing off into the oil and causing massive amounts of shifting issues. That is the biggest reason I recommend people change their transmission fluid no later than 20k miles with these transmissions. Rumor is that GM stopped using that rust inhibitor in their transmissions, but we have yet to determine that based on transmission shifting. This is an unusual case where the color of the fluid does not indicate that it is burned, but rather contaminated.
There is so much truth to this statement, as I just changed my fluid yesterday.

With the car on the lift, we pulled the drain plug and collected a sample. What was removed looked exactly like as described. "Normal" trans fluid should resemble something of cranberry juice. What I removed from my trans barely had any red tint to it at all. The fluid did not smell burnt, just looked terrible.

2012 Cruze LTZ 6A
17,975 mi @ time of change
Poor shifting noted for at least 5000 miles.
Extremely poor shifting noticed for the last ~2000 miles, especially when car is cold. Significant delays noted when shifting between park/reverse/drive, followed by a jerk into gear.
Car has experienced LOTS of stop and go driving in daily commuting.
Car has been tuned for just shy of 10k, but given how little I'm able to use the performance mode, that has little to no effect.

Ordered the Amsoil fuel efficiency fluid as prescribed, hoping to eliminate these issues and prolong the life of the trans.

Attempted to find a local place to flush the trans. They're all pussies and afraid to mess with it under warranty. GM dealers won't touch it since I didn't want GM fluid. Found one place that may be able to, but they are booked up, and I never got to tell them the kind of car. I received feedback ranging from "we need 16 quarts to fill our non-adjustable machine to ensure no air bubbles" to verbal abuse such as "How dare you mess with it, take it back to the GM dealer and have them fix it under warranty because it should not be having problems at 17k. If they still refuse, drive it until it breaks".

Let me just say this, I refuse to drive the car in such a state, waiting for it to break. We're in this relationship for the long haul, and I don't want to replace the trans at 101k because of idiots spewing word sperm now.

Long story short, found a couple guys I know with a heated garage with a lift. One is a tech at a Mercedes dealer, the other is at a Deere dealer, and both work on lots of cars with a hobby of off road jeeping and trucks. Went out there yesterday intending to pull a cooler line off and pump it through.

Once we got it in there, the guys soon determined that the cooler lines are a press fit and can't be removed unless with a utility knife.

At that point, one of them contacted a buddy from work who has access to AllData. For those who don't know, that's a database for service shops to access service manuals for cars that they don't have actual manuals for. In other words, an (expensive) subscription enables independent shops to do things on just about any car. AllData's database is fed directly from OEM service and repair manuals, so the information is legit. While waiting for the buddy to call back (he was on the road), they googled on their phone. The service procedure explained here is nearly verbatim from AllData:

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/801b6-chevrolet-cruze-type-transmission-oil-does-car.html

So we followed that procedure, twice. Drained the factory fill, refilled, brought the new fluid up to temp. Drained that out, then refilled again most of the way, following the idle/gear change procedure described each time. Waited to bring that new fluid up to temp before topping off for the final adjustment with the level plug.

Took it for a spin and I could tell a difference. Not significant, but enough. Certain gear changes that had been harsher are now much smoother. 3-4 and 5-6 especially.

However, the big difference came this morning. The cold operation of this fluid is significantly improved. The car used to really lag before when trying to shift as I'd leave for work. Now it acts just like it was warm, save for the torque converter lockup.

I may not have every last bit of the old fluid out, but I couldn't afford to chase a losing battle for finding a flush place and have to take more time off of work. So much is replaced now that the improvement is significant enough.

All in all, while I do highly recommend the Amsoil for being a far superior fluid, just getting the fluid changed is the important part, even with just fresh GM fluid (a GM fluid flush at the dealer is around $160). You'll be happy you did.
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Just remember: GM only HAS to worry about 100,000 miles...beyond that (1) it's YOUR problem, (2) they're off the hook, and (3) the stealerships MAKE money replacing expensive parts.
Funny you put it like that- we were discussing a situation just like that yesterday. The one guy is the brother in law of the other. They have a relative who is one of those guys, when he has a car problem, it isn't good. '07 Fusion 4 cyl, turns out it broke a piston sleeve, and also managed to take out the A/C compressor. The car was just out of warranty, so he went to Ford and asked for help. Ford agreed to pay a percentage toward the repairs. Knowing that, the Ford dealer he got a quote from upcharged all the parts significantly to cover the extra/non-billable hours beyond the warranty repair spec for that job. So all in all, it would cost him the same whether he got Ford involved or not. These guys got an engine for him and dropped it in for a tiny fraction of that original quote.
i finally remembered to look at my trans fluid today and it is a medium brown and has a slightly burnt smell and decided i should probably change my fluid. i want to do this myself and finally become a true car guy, and i have some questions to make sure it turns out to be a happy experience and not a "how to tow a cruze to the shop with a nissan altima" experience.


  1. is cooler line draining the transmission safe and/or effective and/or as easy as it seems?
  2. if i dont have a friend to help, will running the trans in park/neutral for a few seconds without fluid while i run to turn the car off jack up the trans?
  3. do i have to worry about air being trapped inside or will it sort itself out?
  4. does the tranny take all 12 quarts or is it for multiple flushes or what? what is the actual capacity for a 2012 1.8?
  5. where is the overflow plug located? after the trans is drained do i just fill it up until it starts coming out of the plug?
  6. do i have to do it with the transmission hot or cold or does it not matter?
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i finally remembered to look at my trans fluid today and it is a medium brown and has a slightly burnt smell and decided i should probably change my fluid. i want to do this myself and finally become a true car guy, and i have some questions to make sure it turns out to be a happy experience and not a "how to tow a cruze to the shop with a nissan altima" experience.


  1. is cooler line draining the transmission safe and/or effective and/or as easy as it seems?
  2. if i dont have a friend to help, will running the trans in park/neutral for a few seconds without fluid while i run to turn the car off jack up the trans?
  3. do i have to worry about air being trapped inside or will it sort itself out?
  4. does the tranny take all 12 quarts or is it for multiple flushes or what? what is the actual capacity for a 2012 1.8?
  5. where is the overflow plug located? after the trans is drained do i just fill it up until it starts coming out of the plug?
  6. do i have to do it with the transmission hot or cold or does it not matter?
1. It will not work. The cooler lines are way too hard to get to.
2. Why would you be running the car with no fluid?
3. Air is not an issue. Just make sure the level is checked.
4. Trans holds 9 quarts. You drain 4.5 each time you pull the plug. Perform two drains and refills, with some driving in between to mix the fluid.
5. Overflow plug is by the driver CV shaft.
6. Transmission needs to be hot when you pull the level plug.

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hypothetically if i could reach the cooler lines, is it a safe method?

i meant that i would drain the entire transmission at once and if i didnt have a friend to turn it off immediately after all of the fluid is out would it running for 2-3 seconds without fluid when i go to turn the car off be really bad for it.

do you mean i need to drain it hot or fill it hot?
hypothetically if i could reach the cooler lines, is it a safe method?

i meant that i would drain the entire transmission at once and if i didnt have a friend to turn it off immediately after all of the fluid is out would it running for 2-3 seconds without fluid when i go to turn the car off be really bad for it.

do you mean i need to drain it hot or fill it hot?
If you could reach the cooler lines, you'd be fine doing it that way. The fluid doesn't drain quite as quickly as you think. I used this method before on other vehicles and it works fairly well.

Fill it, then get it hot, so the correct level is adjusted when removing the level plug.
I ordered 6 quarts, lookin forward to put those in!
I ordered 6 quarts, lookin forward to put those in!
Just an FYI, each change replaces 4.5 quarts out of 9, and you need to change it twice to get 75% of the old fluid out. That's the dealer service procedure.

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Just an FYI, each change replaces 4.5 quarts out of 9, and you need to change it twice to get 75% of the old fluid out. That's the dealer service procedure.

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Oh, i was badly informed then, i thought it had 5.8 quarts of oil in it...
Oh, i was badly informed then, i thought it had 5.8 quarts of oil in it...
I just ordered 3 more quarts. :th_salute:
Oh, i was badly informed then, i thought it had 5.8 quarts of oil in it...
The 2011 or 2012 manual said 5.8 quarts. It was incorrect.

I just ordered 3 more quarts. :th_salute:
Good call. Be sure to drive around a bit between the two changes to get the old and new fluid mixed after the first drain. Let me know if you need any help with the re-fill procedure.
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The risk of transmission damage from introducing foreign materials, improper fluid level or other mistakes is greater than the risk from OE transmission fluid. Especially if you let some $10/hr technician do it. Just my opinion from experience with more frequent than necessary car maintenance. Its usually not worth it. May be different if you have expertise and do it yourself.
The risk of transmission damage from introducing foreign materials, improper fluid level or other mistakes is greater than the risk from OE transmission fluid. Especially if you let some $10/hr technician do it. Just my opinion from experience with more frequent than necessary car maintenance. Its usually not worth it. May be different if you have expertise and do it yourself.
You must not have seen what the OE fluid looks like after 30k miles and the difference replacing it makes.

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It is foolish thinking to blindly believe that everything any auto manufacturer tells you is the "best you can do for your vehicle", is 100% true. There are many, many ulterior motives in any big business when it comes to how any manufacturer of any product represents their products to the consumer.
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It is foolish thinking to blindly believe that everything any auto manufacturer tells you is the "best you can do for your vehicle", is 100% true. There are many, many ulterior motives in any big business when it comes to how any manufacturer of any product represents their products to the consumer.
Does the advertisement "100k miles maintenance free" ring a bell?

Always remember, GM's liability expires at 5yrs/100k miles.

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GMonly recommends what makes them money. They want a monopoly on what you buy foryour vehicles and their owner’s manuals and propaganda are designed to affectthat end.
Did we ever find out if the diesel auto transmission has synthetic fluid from factory?
Did we ever find out if the diesel auto transmission has synthetic fluid from factory?
Negative. That said, it is becoming increasingly rarer to find an automatic transmission that doesn't use a synthetic fluid.

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Does the advertisement "100k miles maintenance free" ring a bell?

Always remember, GM's liability expires at 5yrs/100k miles.

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At which point it maybe too late to perform preventative maintenence
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