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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I have a 2013 turbo diesel cdx. Yesterday, I drove to work fine, went to leave and the car wouldn’t start. The engine warning light came on and was flickering and the car wouldn’t turn over. It wouldn’t let me unlock or lock using the fob and then the key was stuck in the ignition.

When I tried to use my spare, the anti theft light briefly came on. If I leave the key in the ignition all the accessories turn on, radio, dash lights etc.

we thought it was a flat battery so my husband jump started it, took it for a decent drive. The moment he pulled in home, the lights turned on and the dash flickered. Now the car won’t start again!
Any advice or similar situations? The battery is holding charge and is still good.
Thankyou!
 

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Hi guys, I have a 2013 turbo diesel cdx. Yesterday, I drove to work fine, went to leave and the car wouldn’t start. The engine warning light came on and was flickering and the car wouldn’t turn over. It wouldn’t let me unlock or lock using the fob and then the key was stuck in the ignition.

When I tried to use my spare, the anti theft light briefly came on. If I leave the key in the ignition all the accessories turn on, radio, dash lights etc.

we thought it was a flat battery so my husband jump started it, took it for a decent drive. The moment he pulled in home, the lights turned on and the dash flickered. Now the car won’t start again!
Any advice or similar situations? The battery is holding charge and is still good.
Thankyou!
Start the car by jumping it. Then while running disconnect the battery cables. If it stops you have a bad alternator. The battery starts the car, the alternator keeps it running.

If it stays running then we'd need to dive deeper.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It stays running with the cables disconnected. When I initially go to start the car, the anti theft warning light comes on briefly
 

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Ok. Next question, have you had the negative battery replaced for free under the special coverage warranty? The negative battery cable can cause this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We’ve tested the negative lead and it’s all fine. We’ve found a cable that seems to have gotten heat exposure and it’s lumpy
 

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Ok. If you're positive the negative is not causing any issues or causing any other cables to overheat because of resistance caused by a bad b- then you are tracking your issues down accordingly.

Keep us posted.
 

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Ok. If you're positive the negative is not causing any issues or causing any other cables to overheat because of resistance caused by a bad b- then you are tracking your issues down accordingly.

Keep us posted.
She's also in Australia - not sure if the negative cable warranty thing is for just the US or not.
 

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I have a MY13 CDX diesel and that happened to me about 3 years ago and a new battery fixed it. Battery voltage had dropped to 11 and not even the ignition lights would come on. It started and ran fine with a jump start, but as the battery was 4 years 8 months old I just put a new one in.
 

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Thanks all, we assumed it was electrical in the end and my neighbour bought over his battery tester...turns out my battery had a cell that was on its way out and caused the issue. Got a new battery yesterday and it’s starting better than ever! The first place I went to quoted me 199 with warranty and as soon as I got there, they pulled a premium battery off the shelf and wanted to charge me $380! I hate they try and pull that because I’m a girl! Lucky I have exp in the parts industry and can stand my ground!
 

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Thanks all, we assumed it was electrical in the end and my neighbour bought over his battery tester...turns out my battery had a cell that was on its way out and caused the issue. Got a new battery yesterday and it’s starting better than ever! The first place I went to quoted me 199 with warranty and as soon as I got there, they pulled a premium battery off the shelf and wanted to charge me $380! I hate they try and pull that because I’m a girl! Lucky I have exp in the parts industry and can stand my ground!
Good to hear you tracked it down. Modern cars with many of computers and electronics really need to have a solid battery, and it's not as simple to test as putting a voltmeter on the battery and reading voltage. A failing battery can return completely normal voltages, appear to take and hold a charge, but be failing on the account of inability to produce current. To see what is going on with current you need the ability to test it under load. Load testers are bulky, and few people have them, but a crude way to test it is to see what voltage does when you apply a large load or engage the starter.. the drop will tell you how well it's producing current.

In your case you would have seen a voltage drop below the level needed of for the computers, and hence inability to start, and various warning lights. If that was the original battery in a 2013, you did pretty well to have it last that long actually.

Thanks for posting and providing an update on the resolution.
 
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