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Seems that most threads have died off. Has anyone found a solution to the horribly loud chimes and blinker noise after the front stage has been amplified? Is there anyway to move the sounds to the rear speakers?
 

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Seems that most threads have died off. Has anyone found a solution to the horribly loud chimes and blinker noise after the front stage has been amplified? Is there anyway to move the sounds to the rear speakers?
Tap the amp off your rear channels as long as they are full range, then put a speaker under the dash and power it directly off you headunit :)... It will solve your problem as long as the chimes dont go thru the rear speakers.
OR
Get an aftermarket HU
 

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I dont think you can eliminate all chimes thru the dic. If I am wrong than thats crazy that you can turn off the seat belt or low gas chime..
 

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I'm just not trying to spend 800 on a new hu and all of the modules. Plus once you put that in your car is more likely to get robbed out here. Brian I respect that you have done the hard work of narrowing it down, I would be glad to donate, I personally think that the 'neener, neener' approach can be skipped. Lol. I just want to lower the 120db singing and turn signal noise
 

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I agree ..what year make and model is your cruzen ?

Hifi and EYE do not see eye to eye ! and he knows why ! and he still owes us fifty cents .

Now if you would care to get to the real drawbacks of an aftermarket install .. I would be glad to assist ...

How is Data measured over wires ?
 

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It would be safe to say that you have amplified the output signals from your OE head unit ..

I would need from you the exact procedure you have utilized from the head unit to your amp ,,

Yes we need to find the source of these unwanted signals and divert them or eliminate them if you so choose .
 

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I
Yes the signal is amplified from the two mids in the front, using a pac sni-35
Now what signals would you like to eliminate or divert ?
This is key to determine what procedure to utilize .
 

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Let's keep this on the topic of helping Boredmods lower the chime volume. This bored mod really doesn't like cleaning up threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would really like to divert all chimes / blinker noise to the rear speakers. They are the only ones not amplified, the front 4 are.
 

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Seems that most threads have died off. Has anyone found a solution to the horribly loud chimes and blinker noise after the front stage has been amplified? Is there anyway to move the sounds to the rear speakers?
I'd suggest turning down the volume on the amp and turning up the volume on the head unit. The chime level was probably set at a fixed level. Re-balancing the levels between the amp and the head unit should fix that - unless you really want win SPL competitions. If you can set the amp for "unity" gain (about as loud with the amp on as it was without the amp), then the chimes should be at a factory level.
 

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Another aspect to those annoying chimes is what is setting them off? Ha, put on my safety belt on my Cruze just to back it out of the garage so I won't have to listen to them. If carrying a 20 pound turkey in the passenger seat, have to fasten its safety belt.

Door opened with the key in the ignition? Really annoying, especially if tracing electrical problems and need the key in the ignition. Most vehicles have door switches so can close those with masking tape. But the Cruze has these door switches in the locks, so helpless. Only solution is to wear earplugs. Unless I want to remove the door panels first.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm going to try turning the gain on the line out converter, also the gain on the amp and see what happens. Hope that solves my annoying white static noise as well at low volume.
 

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I'm going to try turning the gain on the line out converter, also the gain on the amp and see what happens. Hope that solves my annoying white static noise as well at low volume.
That may help, but I'm thinking it's more of a balance between the volume setting on the head unit and the rest of the system. I have a unmodded system, and I have to turn up the volume a ways before I hear anything.

You might want to try this idea: Turn down the LOC/Amp all the way. Set the head unit to about 80% and put on some music. Bring the LOC/amp up until you've reached your personal "max volume". Now turn down the head unit to your normal listening level.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That may help, but I'm thinking it's more of a balance between the volume setting on the head unit and the rest of the system. I have a unmodded system, and I have to turn up the volume a ways before I hear anything.

You might want to try this idea: Turn down the LOC/Amp all the way. Set the head unit to about 80% and put on some music. Bring the LOC/amp up until you've reached your personal "max volume". Now turn down the head unit to your normal listening level.
I did this and most of my white noise is gone, and my chimes etc are normal levels. Going to play around with some grounding options to get rid of the rest of the noise and alternator whine
 

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OK, so I know this is a really old thread, but I took care of this by sending my silverbox to WAMS (white auto and media services) and he took care of this for me. Plus, they unlocked all of the "in motion" stuff so I could, umm, have a passenger use certain functions while driving. ;-)
 

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reviving most recent thread about this.

I'm old. I am used to ripping out the pos door buzzer and throwing in the trash. Any solution that says adjust this or do this instead is wasting their time and I will wholly ignore.

That said,

There is a harness that goes to the head unit from the computer ignition or what have you. That harness has a wire that when hooked up to an aftermarket head unit is unused. That is why there is no sound on aftermarket head. If anyone knows this wire, this soon to be cut wire that is the trigger, that is the wire I want details on.

I know I'll lose turn click, door ajar, and seat belt warning. That is the *$!!%#@* point. If you have some naderesque need to not answer when you know the solution, then know I will put a switch on it so it can be turned back on. Or not. Just cough up the info already.
 

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Alright, wasted all day on this nugget. It looks like it is a light green wire. Low speed GMLAN serial data line. I'm gonna pull the pin [in my PAC-AAGM44] when connecting next weekend to see and then may actually put a switch on it, might be nice to be able to turn back on for long journeys or if I keep leaving the turn signal on. Maybe could hook up to a light. Maybe it would flash out the tone number code OBD1 style. Evidence pointing towards this dirty little clucker is:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/attachments/gen1-audio-electronics/13108d1366591628-looking-wiring-diagram-factory-stereo-44-pin-connector-p2.jpg

and this one from a truck site indicating green too.
Annoying Chime - How To - SilveradoSS.com

If anybody can confirm that would be swell.
 
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